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Old 02-07-2013, 06:31 PM   #1
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Leaky roof

Ok so some of you may have ready my leaky window thread. Well this is my leaky roof thread.... I've tried to do some research but most threads are pretty old. A lot of people suggest something called eternabond; which I think is a sealer that resembles tape. I'm not interested in this product cause I doubt it would look good in full body paint. So, my question is this: what the heck should I use to try to seal the leak I have. I'm pretty sure it's coming from the front roof seam/front cap or maybe the rain gutter. To be honest I haven't crawled up on the ladder yet and inspected the seam. I went on the Winnebago website and they don't say what kind of sealant to use, just a part number. So what do you guys use?
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Old 02-07-2013, 06:57 PM   #2
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You can use the tape it works good and there is dicor lap sealant but the roof need to be inspected and see what condition it's in and what it will take to fix it where it won't leak, it's the most important part of the unit.
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Old 02-07-2013, 07:08 PM   #3
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Eternabond is good stuff. I have used it when I replaced my leaking skylight, around all my roof vents and at the front seam where the cap overlaps the roof. It comes in some colors other than white and I believe it can be had in a paintable version but not sure on that.

If applied correctly to a properly prepared surface, you will be done sealing that area for likely the lifetime of the coach. You can remove the stuff but it takes some work.
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Old 02-07-2013, 07:10 PM   #4
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It is paintable.
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Old 02-07-2013, 07:11 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nightriderrv View Post
You can use the tape it works good and there is dicor lap sealant but the roof need to be inspected and see what condition it's in and what it will take to fix it where it won't leak, it's the most important part of the unit.
Can you elaborate on what you mean by what it will take to fix it? Isn't it just a case of either scraping the old sealant off and putting new stuff on it just putting new sealant right over the old? What is dicor? Is it good?
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Old 02-08-2013, 12:15 PM   #6
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To ensure a proper seal with new sealant either Dicor or Eternabond the old sealant must be removed and the area cleaned with a solvent or scrubbed with a good detergent and allowed to dry thoroughly. Both products come with the directions for use. Dicor now makes their own version of "Eternabond" and I think is carried by Camping World. You can get Dicor which is a pliable sealant used on roofs at most any RV store. It comes in both self leveling and regular. I carry both types with me when we travel along with a tube of silicone caulk.
Dicor is a good sealant when used properly but like all sealants they require an inspection a couple of times a year, the roof takes a pretty good beating in the sun and rain..
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Old 02-08-2013, 03:10 PM   #7
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I have used Eternabond. You can apply it directly over the original sealant as long as you apply a wide enough tape to completely cover the sealant and allow for at least a 1/2inch contact on both sides to the roofing material. You must first clean the surface with the suggested cleaner. If you do a search for Eternabond rv tape you will find a lot of info and videos on their website. Then if you decide to use it check internet pricing. I found Amazon.com to have the best prices.

This tape was originally designed for underwater application to piping.
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Old 02-08-2013, 03:20 PM   #8
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Geocell should be used on the front/rear cap seams, and along the length of the roof seams along the awning rail.

On top, where it's flat, around plumbing and roof vents, etc., Dicor Lap Sealant is recommended. It's a self-leveling sealant.

I'm not a fan of eterna-bond. It clearly works, but if you have to remove it, it's going to be a job! I stick to the manufacturer's recommendations. Both of the products above are approved by Winnebago for the specific applications described above.
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Old 02-08-2013, 05:42 PM   #9
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On my full body paint, there is clear Geocell (or other clear polyurthane, but not silicon) from the roof, following the curve down to the awning rail. You don't notice the clear over the paint. Then Dicor type on the flat roof section, overlapping the clear sealant about 2". Winnebago has a sealant chart for each coach on the web pages with manuals. If you have a leak you will need to remove, clean and re-seal with the right sealant.
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Old 02-09-2013, 06:04 AM   #10
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leaks

Best tip I ever got on this site!!! I had several leaks on our Beaver. Someone said to go to hardware store and get liquid "through the roof" sealant, You just paint it on with a brush. No need to remove old sealant. It spreads as easy as thick paint and dries clear!!! That stuff is really the deal. Loaned my can to friend who had same success. Give it a try. Sure worked for me.
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Old 02-10-2013, 06:07 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deucenut View Post
Can you elaborate on what you mean by what it will take to fix it? Isn't it just a case of either scraping the old sealant off and putting new stuff on it just putting new sealant right over the old? What is dicor? Is it good?

What everyone is saying is correct and both products are good and will do the same job, which ever product you use tape or dicor sealant which is a self-leveling product that is applied around flat roof items like vents, plumbing vents, antennas, skylights. Make sure you follow the manufacture instructions, also the condition of the roof need to be looked at. Is it in need of washing, is there signs of age like black areas ( white UV layer has worn off ) age cracks like a tire will do on the side wall when it is drying out, is there soft spots, things like that will tell you the condition of the roof.
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Old 02-15-2013, 02:17 PM   #12
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Pro Guard Coatings

I have a 1993 20 foot Damond Camper w a rubber roof. About 5 years ago I got 2 leaks -- front & back on the right side of the motorhome because the camper leans to the right during the winter months. I recaulked, I used 4 inch wide tape that never dried-out, I painted over everything AND nothing worked.

Two years ago I coated the entire roof with Pro Guard which is an EPDM Rubber in liquid form. It takes 2 applications to get the required thickness and I applied it with a cement troul. FIXED ALL MY ROOF PROBLEMS for the last 2 years which has simply thrilled me immensely. My small camper required 2 gal + 1 quart of Pro Guard Liquid Rubber to complete the 2 applications. Pro Guard is a 2 component product -- a drying agent must be mixed with the rubber which "drys the rubber" after application.
Call me for more info if desired--I will update my info if possible. I am not a salesman for this product--just extremely impressed with it.

www.proguardcoatings.com

Phone 717 336 7000 or 717 336 7320

Location: Denver, PA 17517
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Old 03-08-2013, 10:50 AM   #13
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What do you guys use to clean the old sealant with? Someone said solvent, what is that? I bought geocell 100% silicone and dicor self levelling. The directions say to clean area first, but not what to clean it with. I bought the caulking at Camping World and they said just clean the area. Lol. Anyone have any suggestions about what to use to clean it with? Also, would you guys suggest taking the old silicone off or go over?
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Old 03-09-2013, 07:51 AM   #14
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Mineral spirits
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Old 03-09-2013, 12:55 PM   #15
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Mineral spirits
That'll work......and not too harsh
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Old 03-09-2013, 01:23 PM   #16
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If you have a black rubber strip across at the top of the windshield you may find as I did that's where the water is getting in. I was getting water coming in at times any where from the drivers side window to the passenger side window. Sort of depended on which way the coach was tipped a little. If you have the rubber strip just pull it out and seal any areas you find under it what look like water could get in. If that curers the leak, run a bead of clear caulk along the top of the rubber seal to keep water from getting behind the rubber again.
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Old 03-09-2013, 09:29 PM   #17
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Winnebago contacted

So I finally decide to call Winnebago and ask them what to use for a sealant. In my manual, there is a sealant chart and it listed the part number for "Sealant A"(whatever that is) Winnebago was very helpful. They suggested I remove all the old sealant as there is no way to know what it is. They also stated it is probably Silicone which is not good as new sealant, even new Silicone, doesn't like to stick to old silicone, even if prepped well. Winnebago Service guy told me to get a good urethane sealant. So I called all my local RV dealers parts departments and was told I could get something called Sicaflex which is a polyurethane sealant. Now my only problem is I can't get it in clear It only comes in black and white, and that just wouldn't look very good on the painted surface of my coach. Soooo, my alternative is to order the Winnebago product. I guess I will bite the bullet and order it, which really isn't that expensive ($18) for a tube, but I have to pay $25 for shipping Oh well. I have to stop the leak somehow. Also, the Winnebago Service guy also told me that once I removed the old caulking, to use rubbing alcohol on the surface to remove any residue. It will then evaporate and leave a completely clean surface for the new caulking.

Incidentally, it was Camping World who suggested using Silicone to stop the leak. After purchasing the product(Geocell 100% Silicone) I called the company to ask them how to clean and prep the old caulking as their directions were rather vague. Their answer: "I'm sorry sir, but you have the wrong product. Silicone doesn't like to stick to old silicone etc" I told them I bought what was recommended by one of their dealers. She said, "that's odd, they should no better!!" Sooooo, I guess Camping World isn't the best place for advice....
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Old 03-10-2013, 11:54 AM   #18
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Before paying $$ for the sealant from the factory, do a search for it on-line...I'm sure you can find it much more reasonable....just search for clear urethane sealant..

hmmm.....just did a quick search and can't find any that is clear, all white or darker colors...guess the factory may be your only choice unless you can con them into telling you where and what..
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Old 03-10-2013, 01:30 PM   #19
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hmmm.....just did a quick search and can't find any that is clear, all white or darker colors...guess the factory may be your only choice unless you can con them into telling you where and what..
Haha. I tried that already. They wouldn't give it up. Just kept saying "contact a dealer with the part number and they'll fix you up"
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Old 03-10-2013, 04:41 PM   #20
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A year or so ago I was able to find a clear urethane at Lowes. Then again it might have been a polyurethane. Only real difference is the poly dries quicker.
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