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Old 05-18-2013, 10:37 PM   #1
Winnie-Wise
 
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Keyless Entry DOA?

Background: 2004 Vectra with key fob (just have one) and no keypad outside door. Keyfob has the lock/unlock for door (which also turns on door light and handle light) and lock/unlock for the cargo bays.

Fob stopped working for both door and bays. Interior lock/unlock switches on panel by door for door and bays locks still works fine.

Figured battery dead on fob so replaced with new battery. No joy. Tried battery swap with known working battery from awning remote, still no joy.

Looked at threads on similar issues, got Winne Service Tip doc on keyless entry, located module in bay behind fuse panel. Did the 'push the yellow button for 4 seconds' reprogram process (push lock button, cycle ignition key etc) but still no joy. Checked 12v push-button fuses in bay panel for door locks, bay locks etc and all seem fine.

Did notice one thing... doc describes a "soft clicking" sound the unit should make when the yellow reset button is pressed... I do not hear it. Unplugged the harness that goes into the box, let it rest a few minutes to see if electronics reset and/or harness issue. Plugged harness in, still no clicking, tried reprogram stuff, still no remote. Interior door and compartment lock switches on panel by door continue to work fine.

Anything else you can think of for me to check, or is the unit DOA? I am aware of the vendor issues and need to go to another system and probably a special wiring harness adaptor if it comes to that.

Thanks all.
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Old 05-18-2013, 11:41 PM   #2
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Well Sir,
You've covered the bases as far as trying to re-program it with a new battery. The "little" clicking you're supposed to hear is the "marker lights relay" that trips when you unlock the door via the fob. It's supposed to momentarily light up the marker lights at the time of pushing the button on the key fob.

Anyway, the only thing you haven't mentioned is, the cleaning of the contact points for the door. When you open your entry door, you'll see to "bullet" shaped, brass, spring loaded contacts, about half way up the door, on the right side next to the hinges. They can get gummed up with grease, dust, debris etc. and, they sometimes inhibit the signal from the fob to the door. It's worth a try anyway. Good luck.
Scott
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Old 05-18-2013, 11:51 PM   #3
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Yes, I hadn't tried cleaning the contacts as they didn't look too bad and didn't think it would be the problem as the bays also do not unlock with the fob. After reading this did clean both sets of contacts, still nothing. Thanks for the suggestion.
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Old 05-19-2013, 10:37 AM   #4
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I'm having the same problem, so ill watch your post for the remedy. Mine is intermittent, even with new batteries.
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Old 05-19-2013, 12:27 PM   #5
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Well Gents,
I've read a few posts/threads on these Key fobs and the issues that have arisen with them. It seems they are not the most "dependable". Some get lucky and they work for years and, some don't last near that long before they take a permanent vacation. Some folks have taken it upon themselves to simply replace the entire unit with a more modern, up to date and, serviceable unit. It's the kind that can start the car, roll down the windows and more. You just don't use all the features.

So, is this the answer to your problem(s) with yours, well, maybe, maybe not. I personally like using the stock setup myself but, it appears that the original ones, and the manufacture of them, has ceased. Some have called Winnebago and were told that there's an entirely new system that has to be installed and, at a bit of a cost. Not sure of how much but, it's up there some. I have no idea what would be involved with the installation of a newer style unit or, the cost of such an item. The wife and I surely enjoy the benefits of "pushing a button" to lock EVERYTHING!

So, ours goofs up once in a while and, it keeps on ticking (like a Timex). I'm really hoping it lasts. As for your problem, you've done what I would have done, batteries, contacts, re-programming etc. Not too sure which way to head now. I have a PDF on what I think is the Owners manual of the original setup, I'll check it out to see if there's something you (or I) missed.
Scott
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Old 05-19-2013, 01:17 PM   #6
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Thanks all. Yes, the OEM is long out of business, the current remedy is to buy the new system and an adapter harness from Winne that allows the new receiver work with the existing wiring. I was quite happy with the stock system and was hoping I was missing something. At least it's failure is nothing that will keep me from being on the road, but eventually I guess I'll have to replace it.

Thanks for the advice.
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Old 05-19-2013, 01:45 PM   #7
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I have had issues with the FOB off and on. I have found that the most common problem is with the FOB itself. I take the FOB apart and clean the contacts between the printed circuit board and the rubber like pad under the FOB keys. To take the FOB apart remove the two small screws and lift up the printed circuit carefully with a small screwdriver. It is held in place with a small rubber grommet over a small plastic post. Remove the battery.You then can remove the small contact pad and clean the circuit board very easily. I use isopropyl alcohol pads to do this.

Reassemble in reverse.

This has brought back my FOB more than once.

Gary
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Old 05-19-2013, 02:24 PM   #8
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Thanks Gary, I'll give cleaning the fob a try.
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Old 05-19-2013, 05:45 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary D View Post
I have had issues with the FOB off and on. I have found that the most common problem is with the FOB itself. I take the FOB apart and clean the contacts between the printed circuit board and the rubber like pad under the FOB keys. To take the FOB apart remove the two small screws and lift up the printed circuit carefully with a small screwdriver. It is held in place with a small rubber grommet over a small plastic post. Remove the battery.You then can remove the small contact pad and clean the circuit board very easily. I use isopropyl alcohol pads to do this.

Reassemble in reverse.

This has brought back my FOB more than once.

Gary
Gary,
Outstanding idea. I have done that a zillion times with our home remotes. You know how it is. You hold onto those remotes, zooming through all the channels on the planet and back again. And, after a while, it seems they just don't change the channel or, up and down the volume etc. like they used to. Well, when I've opened up those remotes, it's amazing how much oil/moisture is accumulated "inside the rubber" pad, under the keys. And yes, alcohol does the trick on the p/c board and, hot soapy water does it for the rubber key pad. I then dry it all and put them back together and it's like magic, they work flawless after that.

Well, I never thought of doing it to the remote key fobs for the motor home. I'll definitely give that a whirl. Thanks for the tip.
Scott
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Old 05-22-2013, 08:31 AM   #10
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Thanks FIRE UP on the tip about cleaning the contacts in the remote. That seems to be the trick for my intermittent remote problem.
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Old 05-22-2013, 12:01 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Smitty3509 View Post
Thanks FIRE UP on the tip about cleaning the contacts in the remote. That seems to be the trick for my intermittent remote problem.
Smitty3509,
Well Sir, I'd like to take the credit but, it was not mine. I only commented on it and, stated that I've done that same process on my home remotes and it has worked several times. It was Gary Ds suggestion.
Scott
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Old 05-22-2013, 12:12 PM   #12
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I am having a similar problem with a system in a Bounder. Only I know my black box is dead. And although the system is still available it is about $200.00. I found this one on Ebay:New Viper 211HV Remote Keyless Entry System | eBay

I have the original wiring diagram and I think ( key word) that the Viper can be adapted. Viper products are usually one of the best. In my case the install might be easier as I do not have remote locking for the basement I bet one of those alarm guys could do the install in one hour! I am also sure that Winnie could supply the wiring diagram. That Ebay seller says he will provide tech support.
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Old 05-22-2013, 12:43 PM   #13
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I have the opposite problem, but maybe there's a connection. My FOB works every time as far as lighting the marker lights, turning on the porch light and door handle lights. It always opens and locks the basement doors. But - it won't open or close the entry door lock, though sometimes I hear a faint click under the door handle, and once in a while it'll unlock it, but never lock it. I've cleaned the little door pins, but not taken the door lock apart. Any and all ideas would be appreciated!
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Old 05-22-2013, 04:17 PM   #14
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I have the opposite problem, but maybe there's a connection. My FOB works every time as far as lighting the marker lights, turning on the porch light and door handle lights. It always opens and locks the basement doors. But - it won't open or close the entry door lock, though sometimes I hear a faint click under the door handle, and once in a while it'll unlock it, but never lock it. I've cleaned the little door pins, but not taken the door lock apart. Any and all ideas would be appreciated!
Falcon190,
I'm certainly no expert here but, what your problem sounds like is, possibly the actuator inside the door is hung up. Maybe it needs some lubing or, some alignment to allow it work more freely. Just a suggestion.
Scott
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Old 05-25-2013, 09:48 PM   #15
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So a resolution of sorts on my original post...

had some time this holiday weekend, got back into the bay with the receiver with my meter. Figured I'd check to see if it was getting power etc. Pulled the module, pulled the harness, checked the plugs... yes, 12v on the harness, no issues. FYI, as part of my troubleshooting before I had reseated all the harnesses when it wouldn't flash and click when trying the yellow reset.

So after finding that I did have power, put it all back together and reinstalled in the bay, figured one more try before I screwed the panel shut, and the reset button worked... flashed the park lights and the relay clicked. Did the reprogram of the fob and everything now working again.

Don't ask me... at least now it works, have clean fob contacts and new batteries thanks to suggestions, found the receiver (and while in that area also found other goodies like my Smartwheel module for future reference.)

A head-scratcher but I'll take it.
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Old 05-25-2013, 10:35 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emiddleb View Post
So a resolution of sorts on my original post...

had some time this holiday weekend, got back into the bay with the receiver with my meter. Figured I'd check to see if it was getting power etc. Pulled the module, pulled the harness, checked the plugs... yes, 12v on the harness, no issues. FYI, as part of my troubleshooting before I had reseated all the harnesses when it wouldn't flash and click when trying the yellow reset.

So after finding that I did have power, put it all back together and reinstalled in the bay, figured one more try before I screwed the panel shut, and the reset button worked... flashed the park lights and the relay clicked. Did the reprogram of the fob and everything now working again.

Don't ask me... at least now it works, have clean fob contacts and new batteries thanks to suggestions, found the receiver (and while in that area also found other goodies like my Smartwheel module for future reference.)

A head-scratcher but I'll take it.
Well Sir,
Glad you got that system to work correctly. Yep, it sure can be a head scratcher. Anything with "radio frequencies" can get to be a real pain. But, one thing you mentioned, you found "other goodies" inside that cabinet. Yes Sir, if yours is where ours is, which I suspect everything is almost exactly as ours is, than in side that compartment is your Vehicle Security Module that you found, also your MMDC which, controls all of the info sent to your gauges, (including front and rear air pressure gauges) your annunciator panel, and, your Medallion Info Center screen.

Should you ever need to, removing that MMDC is a piece of cake. Just in case you need to remove it, and are not familiar with the air lines, they are a "push-pull" system. That is, you push the line into the fitting to get the tension off the little tiny brass collar then, you push the collar towards the unit itself and, that lets the air line back all the way out. Be careful, you'll have all the air now escaping through that line which, gets seriously loud. Anyway, again, glad you got your system working.
Scott
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Old 05-25-2013, 10:42 PM   #17
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Ed

Good work. Sounds like you did a lot of exploring and found all kinds of new stuff.

Graeat that now the system works.

Gary
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Old 05-26-2013, 01:25 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary D View Post
I have had issues with the FOB off and on. I have found that the most common problem is with the FOB itself. I take the FOB apart and clean the contacts between the printed circuit board and the rubber like pad under the FOB keys. To take the FOB apart remove the two small screws and lift up the printed circuit carefully with a small screwdriver. It is held in place with a small rubber grommet over a small plastic post. Remove the battery.You then can remove the small contact pad and clean the circuit board very easily. I use isopropyl alcohol pads to do this.

Reassemble in reverse.

This has brought back my FOB more than once.

Gary
Thanks for this advise and whoever posted about doing this with their remote controls for other devices.
Now I don't claim to be exceptionally smart, but I do believe I am more mechanically inclined than most, hence my profession as an aircraft mechanic. And my family beleives I can fix anything but a broken heart. But I have a remote for my home theater system in our s&b that has not worked properly since last October . I took the above advice and in 15 minutes my remote was working normal. I have no idea why I never thought of this repair on my own, but this post turned on the light bulb in my head. Thanks for posting. We are lucky to have this resource for all our small and large problems.
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Old 05-26-2013, 01:47 PM   #19
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Good stuff Dan. Happy clicking.

Gary
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Old 05-27-2013, 01:59 PM   #20
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I have my Moho out of storage and in the driveway, so now I'm ready to tackle this. Any suggestions on how to take the lock apart? Are there any surprises like something being spring loaded, etc? Do I need special tools?
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