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Old 08-29-2016, 08:58 PM   #15
Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: South of Atlanta, Georgia
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The View has the exact same setup at shown in the drawing Macnut shows in his post. WBO realized that the sealant was not holding up well in that location (at least on the Views, and that larger surface area was needed for adhesion. They recommended using screen door spline (you want the smallest you can get, .050 inch) and work it down in there after removing the old sealant, not too far or it will slip past the bottom of the thin fiberglass sheet. Then mask and fill the gap, now larger, with urethane sealant (WBO recommendation) and this has good adhesion and extreme stretch without shearing.

2007 Winnebago View 523H on a 2006 Dodge (Daimler-Chrysler aka Mercedes) Sprinter 3500 chassis (T1N). Bought Sept 2015 with 18K miles on it, Prog Ind HW30C, Prog Dymanics PD4645, Chill Grille, PML/ deep alum trans pan, AutoMeter 8558 trans temp gauge, Roadmaster sway bar, Fantastic Ultra Breeze hood, added OEM parabolic mirrors and RH aspherical mirror.
2007 Winnebago View 523H, 2006 Dodge (Daimler-Chrysler aka Mercedes) Sprinter 3500 chassis. Bought Sept 2015 with 18K miles, Prog Ind HW30C, Prog Dynamics PD4645, Chill Grille, Fanstatic Fan Ultrabreeze, PML/ deep alum trans pan, Roadmaster sway bar
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Old 08-30-2016, 08:51 AM   #16
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: On the road
Posts: 15
I did mine in June. Removed two layers of old caulk from previous owners. Cleaned with acetone. Applied polurethane caulk. Took a while but it looked good. After it cured, I put some white Gorilla tape over the caulk, hoping some extra uv protection might extend the life of my caulk...probably unnecessary, but it did not take long to apply the tape.
From my reading, one should be careful cleaning with alcohol before applying polyurethane caulks as alcohol can inhibit curing of some caulks. As the above poster did the job carefully on a hot day, the alcohol probably dried/ vaporized quickly before the caulk was applied.
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Old 09-04-2016, 06:03 PM   #17
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Location: Lambertville Mi
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At least 4 years ago I used the 2" eternabond tape. After reading different topics on sealing the roof, I felt the tape would be my answer and it was. The black tape blended very well with my color scheme . One of the things that concerned me was the seam coming loose, thus creating a bigger problem . To my thinking I not only eliminated having to caulk or repair caulk every six months. it also made the seam more secure. I still check the tape, and to date it is still looking good !
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Old 10-21-2016, 12:07 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by macnut View Post
emiddleb, that is a good document, and one I used to get started. However, notice the small amount of "sealant" in the diagram? I had to push on the fiberglass a little and put some behind the fiberglass sheet to make it really stick tight and stay connected.

The placement of this important sealant in the diagram is correct. The Approved sealant to use there is NuFlex 640.
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Old 10-21-2016, 12:37 PM   #19
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Just removed the old caulk and resealed mine earlier this week. I used a putty knife to remove the old sealant then washed down. I resealed with DAP Clear, an elastomeric adhesive sealant. I used it before to reseal windows on our previous MH. It stays pretty clear and has very good adhesive properties.

I didn't mask it, used my finger, wearing disposable gloves, to smooth it out. Cleaned up the excess with mineral spirits, have to be quick though. Once it starts to skin over it's harder to smooth out. Once cured the mineral spirits won't remove it. Over 60' of roof line and there were only a few spots where had to use the mineral spirits.

Don't know about you guys but many people cut too much off the end of the caulk tube. Too much caulk makes a mess. You can always add more caulk or cut off a little more of the tip but if you start too big you'll have a mess. With the small opening I was able to push it down, flexing the roof panel so the sealant went down between the rail and the roof.

We'll see how well it holds up but as I said I've used it before. Roofers also used it to seal the flashing against the chimneys when we had our roof replaced.
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Old 10-21-2016, 04:15 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by RvWarner View Post
I've had to replace the caulking in two places on my coach, a 3' section at the front of the drivers side, and a 5' section at the rear of the passenger side. I had to do the first section when the coach was less than 2 years old,so I figured that what Winnebago was using for caulking wasn't so great. I used exterior weatherproof silicone and after 15 months it still looks good. 3 T's in Lake Havasu City, (the best service location that we've come across), also uses silicone when re-caulking the roofs so I took that into consideration when choosing a caulk material.
Living here in Lake Havasu City, I too cruised over to 3Ts and asked what they use on the roof-to-gutter sealant. Tina, the owners daughter, said "Silicone" is what we use extensively. I replied "Silicone" ??? She said, "Yep," it works just fine and we've NEVER HAD ANY COME BACK! So, I figured she must know what she's talking about since her dad has had extensive relationships with Winne and Itasca for decades.

So, I purchased some UV resistant Silicone and, replaced about 4-5' of gutter seam sealant on each side of the front. That was right at a year ago. I was flamed beyond belief for using it. Well, I sure as heck wasn't going to dig it all out of there right after doing such a bangup job of prepping and installing it.

So, after a year and about, 10,000 miles of sun, wind, rain, and general weather and elements, that Silicone is in as flawless shape today (just inspected it day before yesterday) as it was when I installed it. There's not one micro-inch of signs of deterioration, separation, cracking, or failing in any way, on either side. It's as pliable as today as it was when I installed it.

Originally Posted by JaminSamin View Post
I resealed the roof cove seam last year. I used 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant 4000 UV. So far it's holding up, good thorough prep is the key to a lasting seal. has a video on roof cove maintenance. They cover in detail what to look for and what caulk they use.
I'm glad you mentioned "". And yes, they do have maintenance videos for all parts of RVs. And one of them is roof sealant and caulking. They specifically state that, if you have "full body paint", to use SILICONE for the roof-to-gutter sealant. If you have other than full body paint, they do recommend other types of sealant. So, my thoughts are, if 3Ts (again, worked very close with Winne and Itasca for decades) and, Lichtsinn (about two blocks from the Winne/Itasca factory) both recommend its use, apparently it must work. I kind-a proved that since it's not leaving that gap anytime soon.

I absolutely REFUSE to put some ugly-a$$ tape on the side of my nice looking, full body painted RV. That roofs been on there for going on 12 years and it's not going anywhere, based on the factory sealant that's still good and, the maintenance/re-seal I've done. I also just completely removed every miniscule bit of sealant from the front and rear caps to the roof and, two vents and, the roof ladder mountings, antenna mountings, and air horn mounting system, and thoroughly scoured those tow joints with alcohol several times. Then I applied Dicor self leveling sealant. Looks outstanding and is ready for another 12 years, with no tape.

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