It's Polishing Time Again

[Navy Flier]

I have Accuride uncoated wheels and use a three step process with a set of Busch products. Takes about 5 minutes per wheel with no drill-based buffing. Used this product last fall and got the best and brightest result. Just like new. If you are interested go here:

Aluminum Wheel Polish — always shiny wheels and rv

[JohnInAz]

I read this thread yesterday, so it motivated me to shine up my wheels. I do have pitting on the rears, and regular wheel polish has little effect. Outside of sanding the wheels, is there anything I can do to get rid of the pits?

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by JohnInAz

I read this thread yesterday, so it motivated me to shine up my wheels. I do have pitting on the rears, and regular wheel polish has little effect. Outside of sanding the wheels, is there anything I can do to get rid of the pits?

JohnInAz,
I'd like to see the pits "Up close" if possible. A picture would be great. The reason, I too did some wheels off of my Honda GL1500 that had 145,000 miles on it and the wheels were in seriously corroded condition. Long story short, I started with scotch brite and cleanser to get them clean enough to even start the process. Then, it was 320 grit wet or dry. Then, 400, then 600 then, 800 and then 1000. Each step was a minimum of an hour. Then I used a buffing wheel with the brown rouge and finally some Zephyr 40, (liquid polish) for the finish. There's at least 8 hours in each of these wheels. But, from this point on, it will be about 15 minutes per wheel, about every 4-5 months.
Scott

[Deucenut]

Anybody have the coated wheels that are corroding like mine above? What did you do about it?

[FIRE UP]

Originally Posted by Deucenut

Anybody have the coated wheels that are corroding like mine above? What did you do about it?

Deucenut,
That's a problem with "coated" wheels. If, you get a chip, or as in your account, (and many others have sent the same exact pictures on here and other RV forums) you get electrolysis (difference in metals) and, lug nut and lug nut tool abrasion issues, then, there's not a whole lot you can do about it. You can, if you really want to try, remove the wheel, feather sand the rough edges of the chipped away coating, clean up the bad aluminum that's now unprotected and, hand apply some non-yellowing clear coat with a fine, small, brush. You'd overlap the original coating that's still around each hole to a small amount.

Now, the smarter and more proficient truck tire mounting techs, use a "Wheel protector when installing and tightening the lug nuts so that the chipping and damaging of the wheels is basically non existent. You can get these wheel protectors from Napa or other suppliers. They are simply a plastic ring, with holes in it that are the same lug nut pattern as you have and, the holes are slightly larger than the lug nuts so that the lug nuts don't pinch the protector and the socket that's used doesn't ride against the wheel.

This way, you'll have stopped the progression of the corrosion and, re-applied a coating to match your original one and your wheels will look a lot better. Hope this helps some.
Scott