Insulating Under Exposed Floors - Page 3

FrontRangeRVer · 06-26-2007, 10:54 AM

thank you so much Pete!!

vicsryd · 06-26-2007, 01:50 PM

I agree that the wheel well areas needs to be something robust. I'm glad someone with more knowledge than I is leading this are of the of the discussion down the right path.

Also, based on feedback in this thread I've amend my original design for the "protected" under floor areas behind the slides using foam board or Super Tuff-R to include the need to seal the edges with silicon caulk. Even though these areas are protected it (after two years there was almost no soil or evidence of moisture in this area on my coach) it would still be possible for moisture to get up in there and become trapped and thus possibly lead to corrosion of the floor frame.

Pubtym · 06-26-2007, 02:36 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PeteB:
The closest to Colorado Springs I could find is a Company by the name of EJ Bartells in Denver. Phone # is 303-373-0651 and what you are looking for is a "VersiFoam System 1" kit. It will produce 1 cubic foot of foam. The kits are also available in 15 and 50 cubic foot models (System 15 and System 50) but are quite expensive. Pay attention to the instructions and it should work well for you.

Pete </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Interesting stuff. http://www.foamandrubberproductsllp.com/versifoam.php

Thanks. Looks like it can be ordered on line too...have to check it out.

vicsryd · 06-26-2007, 02:47 PM

foamandrubberproductsllp.com is a UK distributor.

A different but similar product is available here

I've seen something like this used on the chassis/body area except it's black.

PeteB · 06-26-2007, 03:26 PM

VersiFoam and HandiFoam are pretty much the same product. Just different MFG. Both are Coast Guard approved for flotation so water absorbtion is not a problem. Just any water getting trapped between the steel and the foam. It adheres pretty aggressivly to any dry surface so if there is anything that you do not want it to stick to I would suggest spraying the item with WD40 or wrapping it in saran wrap so it can be peeled off. The black foam mentioned is a single component foam ( like Great Stuff ) just in black. Be careful getting the foam near anything really hot like a manifold of exhaust pipe as it is not fireproof.
The Super Tuff R is a very good product as well but as mentioned, it would be a good idea to seal any seams to keep out water. Foil faced tape adheres well to the facing if it is what I think it is. R value of the Tuff R is about 7 per inch thickness which is about as good as it gets.
Hope that this info helps.

Pete

PeteB · 06-26-2007, 03:33 PM

Just a further clarification. HandiFoam and VersiFoam are a two component foam ( two chemicals that mix in the nozzle ) and set up in about two minutes. The Great Stuff type is a single chemical that absorbes moisture from the air as it cures and takes about 12 hours to get hard. Either one would work well for filling gaps and such but the two component is the only type that would have the ability to spray in a fan type pattern. Just pay attention to the instructions as the two component work well when used as directed. Wear latex gloves and eye protection for safety sake. If you get it on your skin it only will come off with time.
Pete

Pubtym · 06-26-2007, 03:49 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PeteB:
Insulating in this area is difficult as the choice of interior or exterior are both problematic. Indoor would be preferred as the insulation would not be subject to the elements. I do not believe that Reflectix is the product for the reasons that I mentioned before as any contact with the carpet would allow conduction and negate the effectivness of the foil leaving just the small air space between the foil surfaces to do all the work. Carpet padding would be more effective especially a high quality foam pad.
Exterior insulation, in my opinion, would be limited to spray foam insulation as it has the abuse resistance necessary for water spray off the tires and such but there is the problem of trapping moisture against the steel and causing rust and corrosion. I would therefore advise against trying to solve the problem from the outside anywhere the foam would be splashed by water.
Cutting and placing reflectix pieces around the footwell area where there is air on the hot side of the sheet would be effective. You could spray paint the visible side flat black to help hide it as the reflective side is only necessary on the hot side. Carpet padding is still my choice for underfoot and areas where there is no air space.
Hope this helps. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Looked at different grade-thickness carpet padding today at Home Depot. Dunno...maybe it's the looks of that chunky foam stuff...looks like somebody vomited chunky soup all over the place. Gotta find a simple one layered solid carpet pad in nuetral color.

LK23 · 07-29-2007, 05:29 AM

I am planning to insulate under my floors with Super TUFF-R and have several questions for those who have done this.

1. What is the drying time on the Power Grab. How much time do I have to apply it to the large piece of insulation?

2. What cleaning or preparation is needed for the underside of the coach?

3. I plan to cut the Super TUFF-R with a saber saw and a fine blade. Do you forsee any problems with this approach.

PeteB · 07-29-2007, 04:04 PM

A saber saw should work OK. I have cut it with a strong kitchen knife and a straight edge as it creates less of a mess. You need to make two or three passes with the knife to get all the way through but it is easy to do.

Pete

LK23 · 07-30-2007, 11:06 AM

Pete,

Thanks for the reply. How did you clean and prepare the underside of your coach before using the glue?

Rex

PeteB · 07-31-2007, 11:44 AM

First I cleaned it with Windex to get off any road grime and then wiped it all down with denatured alcohol on a rag. It would be a good idea to tape all the edges where they butt up to the steel to keep out any moisture. Aluminum foil tape would do a good job. Just rub it on well.
Pete

LK23 · 07-31-2007, 12:01 PM

Pete,

Thanks, do you mean to tape the cut edges before the panel is glued in place?

Also, reading the instructions on the Loctite Power Grab. It says that one of the surfaces must be porous. Did you have any problems with this product?

PeteB · 07-31-2007, 12:12 PM

Just tape the surface of the foam to the square tubing thet it butts up against to seal the joint. I did not use Power Grab but a similar product. I believe that Liquid Nails will work as well. I think the porosity, or lack thereof, will just cause the glue to take longer to set up as there is no surface to absorb the glue. There is not much weight involved so it should not be a problem.

LK23 · 06-21-2009, 09:06 AM

Using the info in this thread, I insulated under the living room floor of our Itasca 40AD. All went well using the Super TUFF-R.

Now, I need to do something about the area under the driver's feet. Still pondering that one.