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Old 12-20-2011, 06:38 PM   #1
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indoor blower on heat pump

I have the coleman 6535a series basement heat pump. should the indoor blower shut off as soon as the compressors shut off? mine seems to run for a long time sometimes as long as 10 minutes. I checked the 12 volts at the pc board on the wires comming from the thermostat and the 12 volt goes away, but the fan keeps running. could the start capaciter be shorted out? I did a search on this site, but could not find anything. also I could not find anything like that problem on the RVRPV website.
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Old 12-21-2011, 06:36 AM   #2
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Fan should shut down immediately. Would not have anything to do with start capacitor.
The control board is under a cover on the left side of the unit, probably a relay going bad and sticking. Diagram should be uinder the cover.
Coleman / RVP has excellent schematic diagrams on their website that you can use to find the correct relay.
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Old 12-21-2011, 11:17 AM   #3
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I recently had a problem with the blower continuing to run when using the heat pump. It worked normally using AC.

The problem was caused by one of my Thinlites. The RF filter (capacitor) was going bad. It also caused my monitor panel to have irratic readings.

It took me about 2 weeks to figure out the connection between the different malfunctions.

See if the blower problem still exists with all fluorescent lights turned off.
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Old 12-21-2011, 06:18 PM   #4
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ernieh, I thought you were on to somthing because one of my thin lites is flickering, {I did try it with all the lights out and I will fix} but I guess the fan was just the beginning of my trouble. went out today and the compressors will not come on when calling for heat or cool. the green light on the pc board is flashing real fast. the manual says that means one of the thermistors is open or no voltage to ckt. 1. I measured the resistence on both thermistors and if I read it right they had about 225 ohms resistence. I will have to call and see what they should read. that does not seem like enough, but they both did read the same. I do have voltage on both sides comimg in. any sugestions will help.
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Old 12-21-2011, 10:39 PM   #5
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mikf,

Sorry to hear of your problem. Good luck.

BTW, you will probably not have any indication at the lamp if the RF filter is failing. The guy at Thinlites told me that you could actually remove the capacitor and the light would still work. The lack of a proper functioning filter just messes up a lot of other stuff.

There is a guy in Long Beach, CA that has the best prices on circuit boards for the Thinlights. I don't have his name available right now, but the techs at Thinlites can give you his contact info.
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Old 12-22-2011, 08:52 AM   #6
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You should be able to jumper the thermistors to see if the compressors will start.

Also remember, in the electric heat mode, ALL system control is accomplished by the pc board in the basement unit. The only signal from the t-stat is start/stop.
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Old 12-22-2011, 05:04 PM   #7
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not sure what was going on yesterday. maybe it was in the 2 hour lock-out period or by me checking all of the connections I fixed a loose on OR my circuit board is going bad, but today everything worked fine, except for the blower motor would not shut off when the front flourescent light was on. I checked it several times to make sure it was not a coincidence. every time it failed when that light was on and as soon as I turned that light out the fan would turn off immediately, so thanks Ernie.
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Old 12-22-2011, 06:22 PM   #8
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mikf,

I got my replacement ballast (I replaced all 3 of them) from John Drake Services in Long beach, Ca. They were about $19 each and he cut me a deal on shipping.

They are not hard to replace with a few basic electrical tools.
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