HWH Storemore Slideout Maybe Out Too Far... Itasca "Horizon"
My 2004 Itasca Horizon 40AD Slide Maybe Out Too Far?
I just noticed that the floor roller on my largest driver-slideout is almost over the tile in my kitchen. I don't remember seeing it like this in the past... and I can tell the slideout is pressed way too tight against the wall on the inside of the couch.
Is my slideout... too far?
The attached picture shows the roller is just 1/8" away from falling completely over the edge. Plus inside the coach the slide does seem like it's tipping a bit too much in the downward directions.
...And while the inside seals are are very, very tight against the wall; I am more concerned that floor roller should remain on top of my floor tile.
So... Can anyone tell me how to adjust my HWH-Storemore slideout inward 1/8"?
If your's is the same as on my 2002, at the outboard end of each of the two shiny beams in your second photo, there should be an adjustment bolt with locknuts mounted to the sides of the beams on a flange with the bolt head pointed toward the coach. These bolts act as "stops" to control how far in or out the slide stops when closed. To make it not so tight against the coach you would loosen the lock nuts and adjust the bolt so it extends further toward the coach. Make small adjustments, alternating between the front and back until it's where you want it. You may find that the front and rear bolts will be in different positions in order for the seal to be uniform front-to-back.
Each time, hold the slide retract button down for 5 - 10 seconds after it closes to allow things to equalize. Also, fully extend the slide each time before retracting again. According to the user manual you should always either fully extend the slide before retracting it. Failure to do so can cause things to get out of adjustment (this is why I know how to adjust the travel).
If this doesn't work, contact azpete, a Winnieowner and HWH employee who's helped me and many others.
I wish I had a photo to post but it will all make sense once you find the bolts.
__________________
Bob C
2002 Itasca Suncruiser 35U
Workhorse Chassis
Thanks Bob...
I took pictures of what I think you are referring to...
Is this the adjustment screw? That long rusty, threaded rod?
If so, it looks like there is a "thumb-screw-stop" I can back-off...
...and then turn the rusty rod. BUT WHICH WAY?
Can you or someone else verify this adjustment :
a) Turning the rod to the left (CCW) will result in MORE slideout travel?
b) If so, that means if I turn the rod to the right (CW) it will result in LESS slideout travel, because the shorter adjusted rod will presumably stop the motor sooner, resulting in LESS slideout travel. Is that right?
c) Or is the other way around?
Note: Right now... With the driver's slide out all the way... That long rod has about 1/4" - 3/8" of end play. Is this why my rollers are almost over the edge of the tile and the motor is only stopping due to high sidewall pressure? I'm mentioning this, because I was surprised to find that much end play if the function of the rod is to trip a motor switch on the other end?
I think the pictures with the "Long Rusty Threaded Rod" and the locking thumb screw are to manual retract the slide and have nothing to do with the slide adjustment. (Not sure.) I re-posted the same pictures as before and added arrow-markers so know what I am talking about.
* I guess I should know this in event I can't electrically retract my slide. Also, I always wondered why my coach has some "jack tools" in the storage compartment on the driver's side and I'm guessing these will come in handy if I need to spin the threaded rod someday...???
So I'm still looking for help on how to reduce the travel of my large slide on the driver's side.
I found the attached .pdf on HWH website, but it's not too clear on how to do this? If someone can confirm I have the right manual for my slide rams, then maybe you and also help me understand how to reduce the travel of my slideout?
Has anyone changed from the vinyl strip to rollers on a slide and is it just a matter of removing vinyl glide and screwing rollers in its place. I have a 2001/2 Journey that we replaced carpet with engineered wood and have hade a few scratches recently. We try and run a dust mop before closing up but still not completely satisfied.
I took a closer look and I now see that when my flat-floor extends... and then drops... those steel wheels come to rest on that long cross beam.
So the weight of the sldeout rests on this steel cross beam; and so to the cargo storage compartment "Hangar Bolts" hand down from this same cross beam.
And if you look closely in this picture you will see the white-plastic "Shoe" that slides on top of your carpet.
Note: This is the "shoe" Winnebago recommends your replace with a "carpet shoe" ($160 for the part) if you go to a vinyl floor so you don't scratch your floor.
Back to the subject at hand: I still have no idea "How to reduce the slideout extension distance by 1/8" so the roller rests on the cross beam?
I was finally able to take some photos of the adjustment or "stop" bolts on my 2002 Suncruiser 35U.
You may or may not have them. Since your's is a flat floor, I'm guessing not but this may help someone else.
They're located at the outboard end of the two large suppport beams and control how tight the bottom of the slide closes against the outside wall of the coach. To adjust you loosen the lock nuts and screw the bolts in or out as needed. To move the slide closer to the coach when closed you'd screw the bolt head in, moving it away from the coach. Adjust in small increments, adjusting the front and rear bolts as needed.
__________________
Bob C
2002 Itasca Suncruiser 35U
Workhorse Chassis
I also PM "AzPete" and hope he can help us all with this information.
Note: I examined the support beam and it does show a little bending. This may account for 1/16". But when I am inside the coach, it looks like the extension on the galley end of the slide is out too far by 1/8".
My slide operation is fine. But I'm thinking there is a of of unwanted sidewall pressure created by the big slideout extending too far.
Hopefully, AzPete can help us out with an easy fix. And maybe there is a simple adjustment I can do by crawling inside the cargo area from the passenger side of the coach? TBD.
AzPete and I talked. "What a guy! ...To offer his expertise to all us members!" Many thanks!
AzPete said the adjustment nuts are located on the end of the cylinder. He also cautioned me... not to make more then a 1/16" -1/8" adjustment or you might get a lot a side-loading which can cause serious damage.
Attached is a .pdf is an HWH flat floor manual that has pictures of the adjustment nuts. There are 2 of them, but until I return to my coach in April-2020 I will not be abl to verify I an access them easily or not. Consequently, this post is not finished.
AzPete says not to worry about he roller so long as the weight is supported. However, I don't think the rubber seal... as shown below should be crushed. Maybe it is?
If another owner can let me know what their rubber seal looks like, I would appreciate knowing if it's common for the roller to be crushing it? ...Which does not seem right to me.
And with close examination... it does look like my roller is supported on that steel cross bar.
So when I return to my coach, I will check the pressure on the INSIDE slide out seals ...against the wall. This will signal if my slide is extending out too far. Note: My recollection is that these inside seals are very large and very hard so I don't know what to expect.
So in summary: I have no reason to believe there is a problem at this point. My slideout is not leaking and is working fine. I was just very, very concerned that if this roller extends any farther, that I would not be able to retract my slide.
Note: On my coach, there was a 1/4"... 45-degree "oak wood transition strip" between the tile and the floor edge. This appears under the rubber top strip in the kitchen. Anyway, one day that wood strip came apart. ...About 2' of the oak wood just pulled up. Note: It was only stapled to the floor. It was not glued, which it should have been for added strength. Now it's missing, but I have no issues with the floor and I'm very sure it cannot be replaced without removing the slide. So if any of you look under your rubber kitchen floor seal and find this strip causing your roller to bind, then just remove it.
I have the same coach and mine seems to go lower than flat. Last year the thing stuck out and I had a hard time getting it back in. When I tried to pull it in manually the retraction bolt broke off. I finally in desperation sprayed everything with WD40 and then it powered in . I took it to HWH to have the retract bolt replaced and to have it checked. they also replaced some of the bearings. Evan after this I think the slide drops down too low.
I'm still not sure if my slide out is adjusted right. It's in storage until May-2020 so I really don't have any new news to share, but I think one starting point is to:
* Check your coach "paint lines" when the slideout is all the way closed. In theory the paint on the slide should match up with the paint on the side wall.
Note: This may or may not be the case with the slide out. I think this rule should apply, but in my coach it looks like the painters applied the paint wrong, because the paint lines are off by 4".
* Do a seal compression check. I'm guessing this means the slide will close at the top first and then pull-tight down low (at floor level where the hydraulics are located.)
* Do a side-wall check when you fully extend the slide, which means you should not see too much force placed on the coach side-wall when the inside seal is compressed.
* And if you coach is level... then your floor should be flat when fully extended and very tight between the carpet ends.
Does anyone have any REAL EXPERIENCE adjusting the flat floor in all directions or in some directions? If so, can you give us some pointers?
Note: The attached HWH Manual (.pdf) includes a lot of information, but it's not very user friendly; and I can't seem to find the adjustment nuts in my RV. Maybe I need to remove a cover plate or I just don't know where to look.
And here's a video on how one owner fixed his damaged flat floor sideout. It's not about adjustment, but it is very informative:
I don't have a whole lot of useful information to add but I have the same coach and very similar issues. I've dealt with crushed plastic glides, broken control boxes and bad solenoids. But my latest issue is very similar to yours and happened AFTER I got the coach back from HWH. It was there to have the plastic glides replaced and when it came back and I was thousands of miles away I noticed that the main drivers slide (kitchen) is going out too far. I have talked to the techs from HWH that worked on it and they said there was nothing that they touched that would have changed that. The only way I can tell is because the kitchen counter on the slide in about an inch lower than the sink counter that's not on the slide. And the floor in the back of the slide is a little further out exposing the edge of the tile that used to sit under the slide. I've asked around and at this point I think I'm just going to stop the slide about an inch before it's all the way out. The seals are still making good contact and everything seems level like it should be. But I will definitely keep an eye on this thread and I hope you figure it out when you get your coach back in April. Good luck!
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