HWH Leveler Question

NR4A · 09-21-2006, 12:12 PM

Our Horizon has the HWH 325 hydraulic leveling system, and after scouring through the manual I am left in a state of confusion.

Their procedure says to level the side-to-side first then front to back.

My Right rear corner of the coach is a slight bit low where we are parked, but I am confused as to how to raise just the one corner and not the whole side of the coach with this system.

Am I missing something?

Any advice is appreciated.

Sam

NR4A · 09-21-2006, 12:12 PM

Our Horizon has the HWH 325 hydraulic leveling system, and after scouring through the manual I am left in a state of confusion.

Their procedure says to level the side-to-side first then front to back.

My Right rear corner of the coach is a slight bit low where we are parked, but I am confused as to how to raise just the one corner and not the whole side of the coach with this system.

Am I missing something?

Any advice is appreciated.

Sam

doc · 09-21-2006, 12:34 PM

Sam,
We have the HWH system in our Horizon as well. You might be making the process harder than it actually is.

I am not sure what system we have, but it has a yellow light on the low side/end and touch pads to extend the jacks. Just follow the yellow light. Extend the jacks that are indicated as low by the light. When the light is out, you are close to level. We use a bulls eye type level to double check.

I have not idea how the jacks are plumbed that will allow two touch pad positions to lower or raise the same jack. (depends on which side and end you are raising)
Just know it works and does it well.

When the lights are off, we then raise the driver's side just slightly to offset the weight when we extend the two slides.
It really is not rocket science after you do it for a couple of times, but is sort of confusing trying to figure out how it works.
Luck to you and safe roads

ichn2go · 09-21-2006, 12:46 PM

Leveling side to side and then front to back is the way its done. Its done this way so you will bwe less likely to twist the coach.As doc said when the lights are off then it is level. I some times use a 3ft carpenters level on the sink area and check it both ways. I have bubble levels mounted near the dash also...often one light will be on and the coach will still be level..Sometimes if I go to far then I have to lower the coach and start over
There is a leveling device in one of the compartments that controls the lights on the panel. This could be set wrong and thus you could still be level with a light on. Use the carpenters level and when that says your level both ways at the sink then your close enough. Good Miles

Navy Flier · 09-21-2006, 01:13 PM

Personally, I do not want to carry a three foot level with me so I use the bathroom door. I open it half way. If it stays open, the coach is level.

cbeierl · 09-21-2006, 02:10 PM

Hi Sam,

If you haven't already got a copy you can get the 325 Operator's Manual from the HWH web site HWH Operator's Manuals. The jacks always work in pairs so that you don't end up twisting the frame. There's a pretty good description of what you need to do in the manual.

John_Canfield · 09-21-2006, 02:42 PM

Sam - The previous advice is spot-on. To clarify more (I hope) let's say you have a yellow light lit on the right side and a yellow light lit aft. First step is to raise the right side of the coach (or left if that side is low) until the yellow light extinguishes. Now you are level side to side but still low in the rear.

Next raise the rear with the up arrow until that yellow light goes out.

Wait - you aren't done yet.. You only have three jacks down. Now lower the fourth jack by pushing the up arrow for the front of the coach - stop when you feel the coach move a little which means it has hit the ground. Now you have four jacks down and all is well. Time to break out the 2004 La Crema Chardonnay and watch the sun go down.

Double check your HWH level indicators - don't assume the yellow lights are accurate regarding the level you want. After you make all the lights extinguish, grab your handy spirit level and check whatever is important for you - stove top, floor by the shower, galley counter or whatever. We have automatic levelling and I wanted to adjust the control box level sensors to obtain level for the stove top; I tweaked the level sensor adjustments and now we auto level to the stove top.

NR4A · 09-21-2006, 03:01 PM

Thanks for all of the tidbits....

I am using a 3' carpenters level. Front to back is level (no yellow lights) Left to right in the center of the coach is level. Bedroom shows right side low (left to right).

This park we are in had a concrete company lay the slabs, they aren't very level - nor did they do a good job smoothing them out. The owners tell me they were inexpensive to have poured when they built the place. I can see why.

I put the level on the concrete pad this afternoon and it follows the pattern of being level and un-level in the same spots where my coach is parked.

I guess as a last resort I could drive the right rear wheels onto a 2x6 or 2x8 board, but thought that would be defeataing the purpose of the HWH system.

The HWH level sensor is installed under the right front of the coach but requires no tweaking as the levelers worked well at the dealers before we brough the coach home. Of course, their concrete pad was a whole lot better than this one we are parked on now.

For some reason I thought it was possible to extend just one of the jacks. Looks like back to square one(?)

Cheers!

Sam

"007" · 09-21-2006, 03:20 PM

Just want to add my 2 cents, always lower jacks in pairs. Yellow lite pass side operate arrow for that side rail of chassis both jacks will lower,front and rear red lites will come on, if a low spot on that side one jack will touch ground first and wait for other jack to touch ground than both will raise pass rail together until yellow light goes out. Next raise drivers side rail, both red lites will come on and jacks will operate together to raise drivers side rail. The yellow lite may come on either up front or rear you will than press arrow for both front jacks to raise front if thats where yellow lite appeared, same if its the rear. ALWAYS IN WORKING PAIRS, THAT WAY YOU WILL NOT TWIST FRAME AND POP WINDSHIELD.

I also level coach before extending slides that way no ripped floor boards or scratched tiles or twisted slides and binding entrance doors.

AFChap · 09-21-2006, 05:57 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">always lower jacks in pairs </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I don't know about Newmar, but HWH jack systems on Winnebago coaches (at least the more recent year models) WILL NOT ALLOW you to operate individual jacks. You can operate jacks in pairs only for the reasons others have stated.

DancinCampers · 09-21-2006, 07:05 PM

There is theory, then there is the real world.

I talked to a HWH rep at Quartzite 2 years ago, he said follow the (yellow) lite. But I have found (in the real world) that if I level side to side first, when I then attempt to level fore & aft, my side to side goes off.

However, when I level fore & aft first, then level side to side, my fore & aft does not change.

I also have to tweak slightly after I extend the slides.

I use a small double bubble level set in my driver door depression just in front of the cup holder.

But what really matters is, as Paul of 3-T's recommends, ask the wife. It doesn't matter what the bubble or HWH system says. If she says it's level, stop.

As the saying goes, If momma ain't happy, nobody is happy

RonP · 09-21-2006, 07:49 PM

Sam
You stated that the center of your coach was level right to left,probably based on your level setting on the tile floor. Since that would be more accurate than the carpet in the bedroom,if that is where you are resting the 3' level,you are probably in good shape subject to other backup indicators such as the bathroom door(one of my favorites).

ichn2go · 09-22-2006, 02:27 AM

My 3 ft level also holds the canned goods in the compartment above the stove..Works just great. Good Miles

Cruzer · 09-22-2006, 04:17 AM

Thanks for "leveling" with us Jim.

SargeW · 09-22-2006, 05:02 AM

Don't make yourself too crazy trying to get the perfect level. Being the veteran of a TT, then a 5ver, most of your leveling is with blocks. So sometimes you are very close, but usually you are within an inch or two.

The documentation that came with the rig says that to be acceptable, a round bubble level placed in the refer should have half of the bubble in the center ring of the level. Trying to obtain a perfect level in all directions with drive you (and your neighbors) crazy. Get it close, run out the awning and grab a beer.

A minute later you will forget all about it....

ISLAPP · 09-22-2006, 05:04 AM

I have found the same thing as Dan. What happens is that after you level side to side and then start the fore and aft, that the one jack that is already down on the side moves a little when it's partner starts to move. This then messes up the side to side alittle and requires tweaking. I also have to tweak after the dining room slide it out.
Mike

John_Canfield · 09-22-2006, 05:48 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by ISLAPP:
I have found the same thing as Dan. What happens is that after you level side to side and then start the fore and aft, that the one jack that is already down on the side moves a little when it's partner starts to move. This then messes up the side to side alittle and requires tweaking. I also have to tweak after the dining room slide it out.
Mike </div></BLOCKQUOTE>First point is you need to pick one place in the coach that you (or the DW) wants to be level. Level to that point. Everywhere else in the coach may or may not be level to the chosen point.

Leveling works quite well (for us at least) side to side first IF you are on firm and non-yielding ground. If the ground is the least bit soft, then leveling is quite difficult as the down jack will be pushed further into the ground when other side/end is raised creating an out of level situation on the previously leveled side. When we suspect we have a situation like that, out come the Dica jack pads. Works every time.

NR4A · 09-23-2006, 02:32 AM

I believe you hit this right on the head.

When the DW says STOP - I will stop.

Best I throw the manual out and rely on her.

Thanks for the advice.

Ride safe!

Sam

rebelsbeach · 09-23-2006, 03:07 AM

Great advice by John Canfield as usual....a veteran of boating and rv'ing for many years, he's also the "veteran" of a long marriage to his wonderful wife Jane...

If the DW's not happy, then NOBODY'S happy!!

As far as a leveling "point", I believe most people try and make the refrigerator that point and not worry about anything else as the refrigerator is about the only thing,shy of th DW of course that matters...

Would've loved to surprise you guys in Forest City, but the coach had a different plan...

Zimectrin · 09-23-2006, 06:08 AM

Please excuse my ignorance, but what does "DW" stand for? I see this all the time used as if everyone already knows.

Feel like I am exposing myself asking this question so I am hiding it as an ammendment to this thread. I would not ask this question anywhere else but on IRV2. Here we are amoung understanding friends.