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Old 08-08-2011, 11:07 PM   #1
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HWH Jacks not working right

I have a 325 system in my 2000 Suncruiser 35U. Instructions say to level side to side first, then front to back. Last time I used the rig, I leveled side to side, raising up the right side. Then, I pressed the up button to raise the front. As soon as I pushed the front up button, the right side dropped. Not totally, but about an inch or so. It wasn't a gradual drift down, but a sudden drop. Any clues as to where I should start to trouble-shoot? I checked the HWH site and the forums here, but couldn't find any solutions. Thanks!

Bob
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Old 08-09-2011, 06:41 AM   #2
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If I am reading/understanding what you have written correctly, you said you raised one side then raised the front. That may have caused your issue.

If one side is low, raise that side to level. Then you must lower the jacks (raise the coach) on the opposite side so that those jacks make ground contact. Then you can level front to back. Try that and see if it works.

I will say that sometimes when my DW levels the coach she forgets which button to push and the system will get goofy. In those cases, I have to store the jacks and start the process over again.
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Old 08-09-2011, 07:18 AM   #3
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So you are supposed to level side to side first...been doing it wrong for 3 years. I will have to try it your way.
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Old 08-09-2011, 08:01 AM   #4
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You want to level each side rail first dependent which side has yellow light as said.
After the rails have been leveled raise front or back if necessary do not over extend may flex frame or twist chassis frame popping out windshield.
Look in Quick Tips for more HWH information.
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Old 08-10-2011, 02:50 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by INSPECTORBOB View Post
I have a 325 system in my 2000 Suncruiser 35U. Instructions say to level side to side first, then front to back. Last time I used the rig, I leveled side to side, raising up the right side. Then, I pressed the up button to raise the front. As soon as I pushed the front up button, the right side dropped. Not totally, but about an inch or so. It wasn't a gradual drift down, but a sudden drop. Any clues as to where I should start to trouble-shoot? I checked the HWH site and the forums here, but couldn't find any solutions. Thanks!

Bob
make sure that the hwh hydraulic reservoir is full with the jacks and slides retracted. if there is air in the system it will self bleed when operated a couple of times.
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Old 08-10-2011, 08:30 AM   #6
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This from the HWH operators manual:
LEVELING PROCEDURE
1. Place gear selector in the parking position, apply park
brake and block tires securely.
3. Push the "ON" button on the touch panel.
The POWER ON light will come ON.
7. Push the "OFF" button on the Touch Panel.
8. Turn the ignition switch off.
2. Turn ignition switch to "ACCESSORY".
4. Place a pad under each jack, if needed, at this time.
NOTE: If the ground is too uneven, the jacks may
not have enough stroke to level the vehicle.
The vehicle may have to be moved.
NOTE: If the park brake is not set the panel will have
power but the pump will not run. The jacks can not be
extended until the park brake is set.

ALWAYS LEVEL THE VEHICLE FROM SIDE TO SIDE
IF NEEDED BEFORE LEVELING THE VEHICLE FRONT

5. A lit yellow LEVEL light indicates that end, side or corner is
low. Push an EXTEND (up arrow) button to extend jack pairs
according to a lit yellow light.
6. After the vehicle is level, the jacks not used for leveling
may be extended until they touch the ground. The remaining
jacks used to stabilize the vehicle should lift the vehicle
slightly after touching the ground. This provides additional
stability against wind and activity in the vehicle. Do this by
pushing the front and/or rear EXTEND buttons as needed to
extend any remaining jacks. Do not use the right or left
EXTEND buttons.

One or two yellow LEVEL lights can be on at one

time. Extend jack pairs accordingly until all yellow lights are out

Here is the website:
http://www.hwhcorp.com/ml31588.pdf
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Old 08-10-2011, 08:35 AM   #7
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Mine has acted similar to yours since we got it in 2004. It doesn't drop suddenly, but if I level side to side first, the bubble will shift off center (side to side) when I level front to back.

I would say that 80% of the time our site is low in front and the left side. My procedure is to level front, put rear jacks down firm. then level side to side. Has worked for us for 69K miles.

I once talked to an HWH rep at Quartzsite and he said to chase the yellow lite. In other words, level the low side till the yellow light dissappears, then bump the other jacks till they are firm on the ground. Has never worked for me.
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Old 08-10-2011, 08:39 AM   #8
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I may be incorrect but..............

I was told that you level side to side first to avoid twisting the frame.
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Old 08-10-2011, 09:14 AM   #9
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My coach has Kwickee levelers and oddly enough the Kwickee Level Best manual says to level front to back and then side to side. I wonder why the procedures are different?
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Old 08-11-2011, 06:52 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codgerbill View Post
I may be incorrect but..............

I was told that you level side to side first to avoid twisting the frame.
You may be correct, but if you notice, the system isn't set up to lower one corner at a time, you always work the jacks in pairs, to avoid twisting the frame.
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Old 08-18-2011, 02:28 PM   #11
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I contacted HWH and discussed with Frank in tech support. He had me try some other sequences and get back to him. Here is what I did, storing and resetting the jacks between tests:

Extend right side, then extend fronts--front right corner drops as soon as I activate the extend front function;
Extend left side, then extend fronts--no problem;
Extend right side, then extend rear--no problem;
Extend left side, then extend rear--no problem

Anyone else have the same symptom?

Frank thought it could be either the check valves, or the manifold itself. I ordered the inner and outer check valves, but I need to confirm where they are. I know one is under the brass cap on top, and I think I have to remove the corresponding solenoid to get to the other one, correct?? Anyone else had to have the manifold replaced? Frank said that there was nothing to rebuild in there, but if it was the problem, it would have to be re-machined.

Thanks!
Bob
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