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Old 08-19-2005, 05:18 PM   #1
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When breaking camp on last Thursday, the left rear jack cylinder would not retract. The other three performed as expected and I had no problem with retracting the slides. I recycled the jacks up and down three times without the LR retracting more then a 1/4 inch. As a last resort, removed the bleed screw from the LR cylinder, but it still would not retract. I was only able to retract the cylinder by using leverage to force the cylinder upward. While this allowed me to make it home, it did result in the loss of a quantity of fluid. Any idea on what could be the cause of the problem. I sent an inquiry to HWH, but so far no response.
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Old 08-19-2005, 05:18 PM   #2
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When breaking camp on last Thursday, the left rear jack cylinder would not retract. The other three performed as expected and I had no problem with retracting the slides. I recycled the jacks up and down three times without the LR retracting more then a 1/4 inch. As a last resort, removed the bleed screw from the LR cylinder, but it still would not retract. I was only able to retract the cylinder by using leverage to force the cylinder upward. While this allowed me to make it home, it did result in the loss of a quantity of fluid. Any idea on what could be the cause of the problem. I sent an inquiry to HWH, but so far no response.
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Old 08-19-2005, 06:39 PM   #3
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Try giving them a call (on Monday). It's probably a bad/sticking cylinder, and here's why I say that...

I had the same problem with a front-jack. I went thru the troubleshooting flowchart in their manual, and convinced myself it was the valve assembly. Called HWH and told 'em my decision and that I needed a new valve assembly. I got gently but firmly talked out of my conclusion and steered to purchasing a remanufactured jack.

They told me a bad jack was the culprit 99% of the time and if it wasn't, they'd buy it back.

Guess what? I didn't have to send anything back and it all works fine now!

Replacement is a fairly easy job, especially since you already started disassembling it all. Mine was maybe 1 hour tops.

Good luck,
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Old 08-19-2005, 06:51 PM   #4
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It's a common problem, mine acted up early last year, but started working again for the rest of the year. First trip out this year, it wouldn't retract & had to push it up, but didn't open any bleeders to do so. A month later on a 3 week trip it acted up once & retracted slowly but surely for the rest of the trip. Next trip all was well. After returning home it got nasty again & I ordered a rebuilt one (3 yr warranty) & installed & all is well.
Now I wonder, how this jack comes apart. I look at it on my work bench every morning as I leave & am thinking it couldn't be that hard or expensive to repair & have a spare for the other side.
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Old 08-21-2005, 08:54 AM   #5
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I too have had some issues with the HWH leveler in my new coach. The alarm went off on the road one time and I pulled over and had to wait 5 minutes for it to turn off when I hit the "retract all" switch.

Last weekend the left rear jack took almost 5 minutes to retract all the way. I checked the fluid and it is ok. It just seems that the same left rear jack takes about 5 minutes longer than the other 3 to retract.

I'm going to have it looked at when I take the coach in for service unless it is some minor adjustment.....
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Old 08-22-2005, 07:13 AM   #6
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I just had the rear HWH jacks replaced under warranty. The rears were so slow and the left rear did not retract the last inch. I was told the seals in the rear jacks were the cause. Try cleaning and spraying with silicone first. My service center made the call to HWH and I had new jacks. The rears now retract as fast as the front. Good luck
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Old 08-28-2005, 05:20 PM   #7
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Spoke with HWH and they said the problem was most likely an o-ring in the jack cylinder that has rolled up. Since my 2nd year of the 3 year warranty expired on July 21, all that HWH will cover is the parts. HWH is sending me a new jack cylinder and replacement springs. It seems they have determined that the original return springs are not of sufficient force for the 9600 lbs jacks on the rear of my Brave. When I receive the parts, I will post how the removal and replacement process goes.
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Old 08-29-2005, 05:25 AM   #8
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Yes Please post how it goes. I have a 2002 Brave 34D and my left front jack sometimes is slow to retract and I was wondering if it was a DIY type job.

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Old 09-02-2005, 05:17 PM   #9
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Just received the jack & springs today. Took one week to arrive. If time allows will install this weekend. With gas at $3.50/gal don't think I will be going anywhere.
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Old 09-07-2005, 10:47 AM   #10
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O.K. the removal and installation of the jack is not that big a deal. You'll need a 9/16 & 5/8 wrench. For the 9/16's, a socket is really better suited, but the 5/8 wrench is required for the hydraulic line. First step is to disconnect the electrical connector and the hydraulic line. Disconnect the two return springs and foot plate. Then remove the six 9/16 nuts that hold the two jack mounting plates. Be ready to lower the jack out of the bracket. Make sure you switch the position sensor from your old jack to the new one. Also, I recommend you loosen the cap nut on the hydraulic tee of the new jack. Reverse the process until you get to the springs and foot plate. Here is where I ran into a major road block. HWH had supplied two new springs that are of a much higher spring rate. Try as I would I could not install them. After many attempts, I decided that if the other three jacks where going to still have the lower rated springs, then so was the new one. First attach the springs to the bracket and the foot plate. Use your body weight to force down on the foot plate while pushing it over the bottom of the jack. I could not make this maneuver work with the new springs. The good news is no leaks and all jacks and slides are working as expected.
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Old 09-07-2005, 01:05 PM   #11
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Sounds easy enough. Did you have to bleed the hydraulic system?
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Old 09-07-2005, 01:15 PM   #12
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No, the new jack came perfilled with hydraulic oil. One hint, when installing the new jack make sure the label and the small bolt near the bottom are pointing towards the outside.
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Old 09-09-2005, 04:38 PM   #13
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I just finished installing 2 new jacks, and 4 springs on the front of the coach. The secret to installing the new springs is to use a small hyd. floor jack. Put the first spring on the top of the bracket, hook it to the ground plate. pull down on the spring, slide it over the base of the jack. Here's the tricky part. Use the jack to raise the ground plate up as far as it can, mine stoped about 2 inces from the hook on the spring. Wear gloves, and you can give the spring a good pull, and with luck you might get the hook end of the spring in the hole of the ground plate.The new springs are about 1 inch shorter than the old ones. The glove thing is a good idea, can cause a blood blister if you get skin caught between the coils, it hurts, beleive me. I was lucky, the new jacks and springs were still under warrentee, other wise, its a $360.00 bill. took about 3 hrs to do both. You have to use your fittings from the old jacks. The new ones come with a tee on the top of the jack, if your hose's are like mine, the hose has to come straight down, not to the sides. I had to get a swivel 90 deg fitting to make the connections. Both work fine now. good luck
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Old 09-10-2005, 06:22 AM   #14
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RR,

I would think your springs are the original ones and not the new ones with tapered ends? I tried using a floor jack and other exterme methods, but with no luck. With the new style springs, you would have to be a body builder to be laying on your stomach under the coach and to get enough extension to reach the foot plate. HWH has decided that the 9000# jack on the rear of our coach require more spring force, therefore the new tapered springs.
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Old 09-10-2005, 05:34 PM   #15
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by ronboc:

I had the same problem with a front-jack. I went thru the troubleshooting flowchart in their manual, and convinced myself it was the valve assembly. Called HWH and told 'em my decision and that I needed a new valve assembly. I got gently but firmly talked out of my conclusion and steered to purchasing a remanufactured jack.


Good luck,
Ron </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Ron, since you have a 2004 motorhome why would you have to BUY a reconditioned jack. HWH has a 3 year warranty on their equipment
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Old 09-11-2005, 04:55 AM   #16
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Hi Geeche -

Did you happen to ask HWH how they recommended replacing the new springs?

I too had exactly the same problem/solution and also decided to put the old springs back on. Once I made that decision, the job ended quickly, but I never did get the new-style springs to work.

I don't have the bodybuilder physique (hey, what am I saying? No one has seen my picture, so yes I DO have bulging the muscles!), but my neighbor who has been in construction for years came over to help, and even he couldn't get 'em to go. I'd be interested to hear if anyone HAS figured it out.

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Old 09-11-2005, 07:24 AM   #17
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ronboc,

I spoke with a tech at HWH and he said to use the same method. Hook up both springs and use boby weight to force the foot down and over the bottom of the jack cylinder. Glad to know I am not the only one who could not get the new springs installed. If anyone has a method please let us know.
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Old 09-11-2005, 08:52 AM   #18
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WOW! We gave that idea a try while squirming around underneath, but decided that the possibility of the crowbar or spring slipping off and doing major bodily-damage (us, not the rv) was too great to attempt. Perhaps if the coach was up on a ramp and one could get near - but not almost directly under - the area might be a better solution.

However, this is not to say that others shouldn't give the replacement-task a try, it was just us two exercise-challenged whimps (not you, Geeche) that couldn't do it. The rest of it went amazingly-well, and the satisfaction for a job well-done (not to mention saving $$$) was truly gratifying. If someone does succeed, we'd love to hear your success-secret.

Thanks!
Ron
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Old 09-11-2005, 09:56 AM   #19
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I had a broken spring on my 2005 Suncruiser 38R. This is how I put the new one on.

I attached one end of the new spring to my car and the other end to a chain (you could use a stout rope) wrapped around a light pole. I then pulled the spring with my car until it was extended about 8 inches past it's resting state. I slipped about 20 - 1/2" wooden spacer between the loops in the spring.
When I released the preasure on the spring and the spring remained extended because of the wooden spacer. I then measured the length of the extended spring. I then went under the coach with the new extended spring and raised the coach with the jacks until the ends of the new spring slipped in the holes. I extended the jack a little more and most of the wooden spacers fell out. The ones that did not I removed by hand. Took all of about 15 minutes and never broke a sweat and I'm 60 years old.

This is the best method to put on a new spring!
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Old 09-11-2005, 01:30 PM   #20
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NOT FAIR!! NOT FAIR!! I CRY FOUL ON TOM!!!!

Oh yeah, make it easy and make us look silly. Who ever heard of using brain-power instead of brute (euphemistically-speaking of course) strength to do a job like that. Definitely the way to go, and make it simple, easy and safe. Kudos to you, Tom. And things like this make me glad I wander about in these forums, never know when I might re-learn something!

I can just see my old physics-teacher rolling over in his grave (or wherever he is), knowing beyond a doubt now that I never did amount to anything.... {{sigh}}

Thanks,
Ron
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