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Old 07-04-2017, 07:19 PM   #43
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Chris and Ramzfan,
We all have similar coaches and, similar wiring, especially in the battery compartment. Mine looked just like Chris's does. It seems it was the nature of the beast when these coaches cruised on down the assembly line. Add a wire here, a few there, "oh, I forgot, we'll add more to the battery posts too". In the end, when the coach leaves the factory, the starting battery setup looks like a Los Angeles freeway system. If you've ever been to L.A., you'll know what I'm talking about.

Anyway, right after purchasing ours, I was not all that happy with that spyders nest of wiring. So, I just cleaned it all up. There's no reason on the planet for all those tiny ground wires to be cluttering up the battery post area, like they did it. So, to me, a ground is a ground. I simply removed everything from those main battery terminals, and cleaned up and area of battery cage framing and, inserted some nut-serts. I then attached all those grounds to those nutserts.

Then, it came time to do the same thing to the positive side. There weren't as many little parasitic wires as the negative side but, there were more than I wanted on there. So, I purchased an insulated remote stud and mounted it just close to the battery positive side. I then transferred all those "extra" positive wires to that stud, and one 8GA transfer cable to power all of them up.

As you can see in the pics, it's way cleaner and, if and when I have to deal with service or, replacement of the chassis batteries, all I've got to deal with is the main cables.

Yes, I too have the same type/style of inter-connector cables for the chassis batteries. One of mine, was also corroded way back a while ago. I pulled it off and took it to the work bench. I ended up slicing the insulation back about 2.5" to get to clean cable. It was corroded THAT FAR into the cables. Well, I dunked it in Baking soda and, it fizzled for about 10 minutes before it settled down. I did it again to make sure all was well. I then heated it with a heat gun to make sure I had no moisture in it when I re-wrapped it with this wazzooo magic tape I have. IT only sticks to itself. It's pretty good stuff.

Anyway, they've been like that now for about 5 years and all has been working quite well. If I were you, based on the pictures you've supplied, I'd replace EVERY ONE of those cables. You sure as heck don't want any issues like what you've been dealing with, when you're out there traveling. Good luck on your fix.

2004 ITASCA HORIZON 36GD, 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 Toad '08 GL 1800 Gold Wing
Retired-29.5 yrs, SDFD, Ham - KI6OND
Me, Karla and the Sophie character, (mini Schnauzer)
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Old 07-04-2017, 07:36 PM   #44
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Yours looks great, but you also have the correct threaded stud batteries. The OP has a bunch of cheap, marine type, post clamp to threaded adaptors and wing nuts. Nothing but trouble, as he is finding out.
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Old 07-04-2017, 09:57 PM   #45
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Thanks Scott & Chris. Great constructive criticism. Very helpful to see how it should be done & to have a parts list also. It looks like I've got some more work to do in the battery box.
06' Itasca Meridian 36g with CAT 350
2011 Jeep Wrangler 4-door
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Old 07-14-2017, 09:04 PM   #46
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Chris & Scott, I went to Freightliner and ordered the new cables this morning. Said it would take 7-10 days to arrive. (I wasn't in a big hurry and didn't want to spend another $40.00 on freight) I would love to know where you got the negative ground block and the positive terminal blocks that you installed Scott.
06' Itasca Meridian 36g with CAT 350
2011 Jeep Wrangler 4-door
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Old 07-15-2017, 05:48 PM   #47
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Hello EBAY - anything in the world is found fast and cheap
complete set here $22

just the one block here $10
if you don't like those try here for real fancy stuff

Good luck
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99 36 FL Winne Chieftain 5.9 ISB Turbo Cummins DP, 24' box with 1972 V12 XKE Jag and HD Sporty Hobby of 1970's Suzuki dirt bike restoration. Visit my blog.
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