Heat Pump Problems

jeanbev · 03-09-2015, 03:15 PM

We have just landed in the sunshine State after a miserable 3 months of winter in Nova Scotia. Our Heat Pumps controlled by Coleman temp control is malfunctioning. When either calling for electric heat or A/C only the 1st stage is activated. On 50 Amp when the A/C is activated a short buzz is heard and cuts off. When operating on generator electricity the amp meter jumps up to 39 - 40 amps then is reduced to about 18 amps. A/C will only reduce temp by 5 - 6 degrees when measured with a digital thermometer at the ceiling air vent. When calling for heat in 50* outside temp in 4* increments heat is provided but the 2nd stage does not engage same when calling for A/C. Because of frigid temp when we started and snow ice accumulation in rear of coach we waited until we arrived in Florida and warm temp. We have a diesel pusher 36 foot Itasca Horizon 2001.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated prior to scheduling an appointment with Camping World in Winter Garden.

Kelm130 · 03-09-2015, 03:59 PM

We a had a similar problem with ours where the 2nd crompressor was seized up and when it tried to kick in it would pop the circuit breakers and. Thank goodness for Good Sam ESP.

Ray,IN · 03-09-2015, 05:53 PM

Airxcel RV products may be of help. The link on the RH side-pdf "evaluating A/C performance has a lot of information too.
I think we have the same basement unit. There is a thread here from a man who removed his unit, replaced fan bearings, then cleaned it out.
I too suspect the 2nd compressor is bad. If it is you'll find the breaker tripped.
UPDATE: I used the search feature to locate a listing of threads about our unit, and solutions for problems.http://www.irv2.com/forums/search.php?searchid=8005217

mdshedman · 03-09-2015, 06:52 PM

I had the same problem an it was the compositor . If you open the grill back on the rear passengers side then the cover on the right of the unit you will see to round compositors strapped to the side. Mine was burnt on top. I took it to my RV Dealer and bought two new ones. Replaced the bad one then about 6 months later had to replace the other. Go one line to get further info on replacing them !
The dealer knew exactly what it was and said it is a common problem !

ChasA · 03-10-2015, 07:21 AM

The things mdshedman is talking about are capacitors, not compositors.

Bug512 · 03-10-2015, 07:32 PM

Message me with a phone number and I good time to call you.

I will rep you through what I went through when I had the same issue.

I also have some posts here about this.

Gene

KIX · 03-10-2015, 07:47 PM

Some good advice here for you (above). I would suggest you replace ALL of the capacitors. There are 5 in the electric box on the outdoor unit. 2 compress start caps (smaller on left side) 1 fan cap (looks same as start caps) and two larger run caps. They are cheap. You really don't need OEM capacitors. Just take an old one with you to the HVAC parts house and they can match it up. If you don't know how to discharge a capacitor you should learn how before you handle one.......they store electricity and can really give you a shock if not properly handled.
Another potential solution may be the compressor relay.....# one is at top right and # two is just under it. Check all the spade connectors for tightness. Hope this helps

Wmfulton · 03-10-2015, 08:19 PM

Have had similar problems.
Replaced Capacitors and next year relays. Capacitors also burned some wires that I replaced.

Ray,IN · 03-13-2015, 08:33 PM

FWIW, I just discovered these capacitors are sold by Winnebagooutdoor.com. Their prices are lower than a retail store or Winnebago dealership.

Bug512 · 03-14-2015, 04:47 AM

I guess no updates from the OP?

To me it sounds like a locked rotor on the compressor (hence the amp draw going high) then the internal compressor overload opens (drop in amp draw) then after that cools it closes again and repeats itself.

Personally I have had this happen to mine. Reason for the locked rotor was a refrigerant leak on the condenser in circuit #1, this caused the compressor to run without gas and not provide cooling. The systems do not have any low pressure switches.

Hope they respond.

If you are in the NJ area I could look at it for you.

jeanbev · 03-14-2015, 06:04 AM

Thanks folks for all your advice. Power is ok to the unit and capacitors are also ok. Paid the 129.00 fee at CW for diagnostic test and results are no. 1 compressor is seized and requires replacement as per technician review of equipment. Replacement of unit at $425 plus labour is scheduled for next week. Thanks to all for the responses. And to Bug512 thanks for the offer to discuss my A/C system but since I had C/W check the system I saw no need to waste your time and also we are near Orlando FL.