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Old 06-23-2018, 05:03 PM   #21
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I did the roof of a gas motor home we had several years ago. I bought 3 , 2 gallon buckets of the stuff.
Don't recall the name of the company, but they will do your roof at certain times of the year only. Located up north, and sometime in Tex. later in the year. 30 year guarantee if they do it.

But they will also sell the stuff they use. They replace any plastic vents with metal ones. You scrub the roof with a detergent they provide.
You can then Eternabond tape all seams, and over the sides. Then apply the coating on a sunny day, the sun speeds up curing.

We never had another leak, as Pace Arrow was known for leaking at the overlapping seams.
Had a little left, and gave it to a friend with a leak in his trailer. No Problems either.
I figured if they could do it and guarantee it for 30 years, I would just do the same as they explained they would do.
Saved me a lot. Believe it was only about $300.00 tied up in it.
Only safety precautions they said, was to wear sunglasses. As it gets very bright up there.
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Old 06-23-2018, 05:59 PM   #22
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I have not heard of a Winnebago fiberglass roof needing to be "recoated." You do need to have the roof side seals inspected once a year and repaired as needed along with the seals around the vents, etc. I inspect mine at least annually, and wash it maybe once every two years.
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Old 06-23-2018, 07:06 PM   #23
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I have never heard of any particular need to recoat a fiberglass roof. Repair damage or cracks yes. With the Winnebago design, as others have said, there is a need to inspect the caulking once a year, but that is it. Washing and waxing can cut down on white streaks going down the sides after a rain storm.

However, I did see one recoated roof on a 2004 Journey that I was impressed with. It was in Arizona, appropriately. It was about 1/2" thick, smooth uniform coverage, did cover all the seams and such. But its primary purpose was to cut down heat gain from the roof. The material seemed to be like a rubberized foam insulation. Tough enough to walk on, but definitely had an insulating effect.

I think about it often, on hotter days.
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Old 06-23-2018, 07:43 PM   #24
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My 2005 Adventurer had 4-5 feet of fiberglass roof pulled back at the lap joint (roof edge) on street-side several years ago. Wind and rains driving thru Ohio. I found a Winnebago bulletin recommending inspection of lap joints because caulk at the joint could fail. I just finished installing 2 inch Eternabond tape to both sides. Cleaning roof and waxing will help fill in surface cracks.
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Old 06-23-2018, 08:26 PM   #25
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Roof Edge Seam

While I don't have any specific input for a roof coating for fiberglass, I have seen the issue of the roof to wall seam discussed. I see the term "caulk" used when describing the material used at this joint. I hope it goes without saying that the product used to seal that joint is actually a urethane adhesive/sealant. Silicone based caulk will not provide the required adhesive function. If you have the white roof, the material in the call-out sheet is Manus Bond 75. Not cheap, but it is exactly what is required by the manufacturer in this case.

As another side note, the Eterna-Bond tape does not have any "shear" adhesive property. It may not hold that seam in the overlap joint under some conditions One fellow over on IRV2 had that happen to his Winnie. There was a run of roofs where the overlap was cut too short, and it didn't tuck all the way into the channel to the bottom. On our 2006 Sightseer, it goes all the way to the bottom of the channel. I just did all of our side seams about five months ago. It needed it down the full length of both sides. Also, the inspection frequency is every six months.
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Old 06-24-2018, 01:23 AM   #26
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A roof problem can ruin the value of your coach... so you need to take care of it before you have real problems.

Stress marks results from your fiberglass expanding and contracting and maybe even be due to vibration since your fiberglass/luan may not be bonded to the Styrofoam underneath. These stress cracks can probably be filled in with the Zep application as others have described; or they most definitely will be filled with the dicor fiberglass coating products (which are good by the way) and you may not have any more trouble for years.

Cracks and tears in the fiberglass on the other hand are a bigger problem. However, Eternabond is a super hold tape and once it's down -- it's down! ...Providing you clean the roof with mineral spirits first and then use a large, tile floor roller you can get a Lowe's to activate the bond using "pressure." (And I don't mean using a puny roller either. Get a high quality roller you can really put a lot of weigh behind.)

In my case I used one 50' roll (4" wide) and that covered 6 horizontal seams very well. I also cleaned out the driver's side gutters of old caulk and ran a black 2" Eternabond tape down the entire length of the roof to prevent any wind damage to the fiberglass side-caps in the future. (Note: The passenger side has a huge awning that is screwed into the roof for added roof fiberglass support, so no Eternabond Tape was needed there.)

Also Eternabond Tape comes in white and black... but my roof caps were painted a darker green color and still I didn't mind the 2" black tape at all. I did not paint the Eternabond tape, but I hear you can paint over the Etermabond after you use a LATEX primer. Then you can use a solvent based paint on top. My concern was with the paint flexing-off over time as your roof moves around a lot.

And yes... You might as well Eternabond the front cap too since Eternabond is priced in the $55 range on Amazon for a 50'-4" roll.

Amazon is the only place I could get 2" wide tape too, but your local roofing supply store may also have it.And Flex-Tape maybe okay, but it seams a little light for this project. And it's more expensive.

Note: Be very careful about having more than one person stand on your roof -- in the same place. This could lead to roof collapsing in those areas!

If you have some roof damage and or need to paint your roof then Rhino on the roof maybe your best bet. This is a Polyurea coating that is like putting a new skin of fiberglass on top. (This is the same stuff they spray on truck bed liners.)

Rhino coating will cost you $5,400 in Texas for 32 canisters of "Solar Max" Polyurea. This is enough to cover a 40' RV.which has a 36'x9' surface area on the roof.(324 sq-ft.) ... ...and Rhino can do a pretty good job of matching the Polyurea to your roof color too if you bring them your color code.



Additionally, you will zero Rhino roof maintenance in the future since they will remove all the dicor calking material. ...And you can spray right over the Eternabond tape.

Final note: The Rhino roof coating also has insulation properties so after you apply it to your roof, you will find that it will not be as hot inside during the summer; and your AC will feel more efficient since you will not have as much heat transfer. (Warmer winters too... inside!) And the roof will look great!

THEREFORE, I VOTE:

* YES TO ETERNABOND. * MAYBE TO ZEP * AND YES TO RHINO if you get quotes that approach the $5,000 price range.
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Old 06-24-2018, 01:58 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beamisl View Post
Hello,

I have a 2004 Winnebago MH with a Fiberglass roof. The roof is starting to chalk and has very slight cracks in it. I do NOT want to wait until I have a leak to do something.

Have any of you recoated your roof, with what product, and how has it worked?

Thank you, Lynne
Lynne,
I have a 2005 Winnebago Adventurer that had the same problem as yours. I used a rubberized paint product that is sold at Home Depot, Lowe's and others. The cost is reasonable and the application easy with a roller and brush. It has been on for 3 years now and is still doing well. The key is in the prep. Use a heavy duty cleaning product and scrub your roof clean and rinse well. Let the roof dry well, tape off areas not to be painted and then apply heavily. I ended up with 3 coats for good measure. I used the white color. It also helps insulate the roof and reflect heat. Do not apply if there is a chance of rain in 24 hours.
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Old 06-24-2018, 06:52 AM   #28
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Paul,

Do you remember the name of the product you used? This is the type of answer I was looking for. Thank you! The cracks in my roof are very fine like spider webs. I just do NOT want to wait until there is a leak before taking care of it. Doesn't make sense to me. Fix it now. Eternabond is an option.

I wash my roof twice a year and inspect the seams for re-caulking. Yes DryCreek, I use the right stuff to seal these seems. In the winter we stored the rig inside but now that I am retired we will be in Yuma over the winter. Sun will be on the roof all the time and I assume the sun is much hotter.

Where we live in MI there are not a lot of options here to get work done other than CW and General RV. I prefer to do my own work when I can. We recently installed a Fantastic Vent Fan and I re-caulked several vents just this last month that needed it. I completely removed the old caulk and put in new Dicor sealants.

We are adding a new antenna and will be re-caulking that as soon as we get a dry day to do so.

Going to Yuma might open us up to more businesses that do this type of work but I will definitely check out the Marine options. I am not as concerned about "LOOKS" as much as I want it dry and not leaking. The insulation value would be an added benefit and I have read about this in my research. They say it also insulates for sound when it rains.

Either way, I will find something and thank all of you for your answers. It's great to be able to ask others for advice and find it here.

Thank you, Lynne
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Old 06-24-2018, 07:21 AM   #29
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Fiberglass Roof

As far as the chalking goes, a washing followed by a couple of coats of Zep floor polish took care of mine quite well. You still must re-apply each year, but it is a heck of a lot less work than waxing. No more white streaks down the windshield and sides.
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Old 06-24-2018, 11:06 AM   #30
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Wax Worked

Quote:
Originally Posted by powercat_ras View Post
Chalking, just an appearance issue. If it bothers you you can give the roof a good cleaning and a coat of marine (boat) wax and repeat yearly. Slight surface cracking - if the cracking is in the radius bends near the sidewalls then one solution is to buy a Eternabond Tape and run a strip of tape down both sides. Comes in 4" and 6" widths and various roll lengths.
I live in Las Vegas. My 2011 Itasca started chalking about 3 years ago. The roof was fine, intact and no cracks. A local Mobile RV wash company power washed and waxed it. Said it would last 6-9 months. I have gotten a year out of it and will likely have it redone before my next big trip. They charged $80. Worth looking into if your cracks are surface/spider and not structural. If you live in heavy rain/snow climate, only six months life, I imagine.
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Old 06-24-2018, 11:59 AM   #31
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$5,400 for just the Rhino coating material! I don't doubt it's effectiveness but, IMHO, it's not a cost-effective solution and is probably overkill. Aside from weather and UV, an RV roof isn't subjected to the rough treatment that a truck bed has to endure. I also wouldn't want a dark roof, at least here in northern California.

I really don't see the need to spend more than a few hundred to a thousand dollars at most on a DIY roof coating.
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Old 06-24-2018, 12:08 PM   #32
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In Arizona a lot of people use Elastometric roof coatings on their roofs RV and homes. Available at any hardware store. I have a lot of experience with it and if you have a very clean prepped roof and use the higher grades ( I prefer the one made in Tucson and sold at ACE Hardware) you will get a 7-10 year guarantee.
Be sure you eliminate all wax, silicone (witch you should never put on a roof in the first placeif you want anything to stick to it in the future!) and any other contaminants. This stuff goes on like a breeze with a roller and brush and give you a pure white, durable, lasting seal.
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Old 06-24-2018, 12:16 PM   #33
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Sorry, I spelled Elastomeric wrong and my profile was from the dark ages. Too many RV's and too little time!
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Old 06-24-2018, 12:29 PM   #34
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I think I have run into what you are seeing on your fiberglass roof before (I work on RV's), starts to dry out, I think from no Gelcoat just resin which starts to breakdown from the UV. You start to see the glass fibers.
I agree with Rapid, it has been my selection for s simple solution. I cleaned the surface well and then used Henry Company Enviro-White Elastomeric Reflective Roof Coating (12-Year Limited Warranty). It worked well, giving the rough fiberglass a nice surface again. Haven't got any customer complaints yet, so I assume it has held up.
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Old 06-24-2018, 02:29 PM   #35
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e4services,

The more research I do on the Henry product the more I am tipping that way. I wash my roof twice a year and keep the correct caulk (Dicor) on the roof around any vents or other roof items. I just removed and replaced the caulk on several areas a month ago. Yes, I properly cleaned it after removal of the old caulk.

I am not getting the white streaks coming down from the roof, just noticed it was starting to powder and like I said, very fine cracks.

So, when you do this to a roof, do you remove all the caulk, put the Henry's on, then re-caulk or re-seal? Or just cover the caulk too? I am probably going to do this myself this winter in Yuma.

Have you heard about people's rigs staying cooler after this application or sound insulation with it? I saw a video on it that stated 35* difference in the actual roof temp allowing the a/c's to run cooler. It would make sense that if the motorhome roof is 35* cooler, the inside of the rig would also be cooler.

How many years have you been applying Henry's coating to motorhomes please.

Thank you, Lynne
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Old 06-24-2018, 04:11 PM   #36
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Quote:
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e4services,
Have you heard about people's rigs staying cooler after this application or sound insulation with it? I saw a video on it that stated 35* difference in the actual roof temp allowing the a/c's to run cooler. It would make sense that if the motorhome roof is 35* cooler, the inside of the rig would also be cooler.
How many years have you been applying Henry's coating to motorhomes please.
Thank you, Lynne
The whiteness is what reflects the heat. I would not 35, difference, as that sounds quite high.

My first one had known leak areas, like the Journey says to be inspected/repaired every 6 months. This is at the edges of the glass roof.
It you over lapped Eternabond, after proper prep. that should take away that need.
But scrub the whole roof with Ajax, no chlorinated product.
Prep for the tape, then coat the whole thing even over the tape. You can also put the tape around the vents.

We got this Journey the end of last year and haven't done it yet, but that's what will be done.
Hope this helps.
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Old 06-25-2018, 11:45 AM   #37
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e4services,

The more research I do on the Henry product the more I am tipping that way. I wash my roof twice a year and keep the correct caulk (Dicor) on the roof around any vents or other roof items. I just removed and replaced the caulk on several areas a month ago. Yes, I properly cleaned it after removal of the old caulk.

I am not getting the white streaks coming down from the roof, just noticed it was starting to powder and like I said, very fine cracks.

So, when you do this to a roof, do you remove all the caulk, put the Henry's on, then re-caulk or re-seal? Or just cover the caulk too? I am probably going to do this myself this winter in Yuma.

Have you heard about people's rigs staying cooler after this application or sound insulation with it? I saw a video on it that stated 35* difference in the actual roof temp allowing the a/c's to run cooler. It would make sense that if the motorhome roof is 35* cooler, the inside of the rig would also be cooler.

How many years have you been applying Henry's coating to motorhomes please.

Thank you, Lynne

Although I am not a professional, I have used Elastomeric for about 15 years on my pool building flat roofs, patios and several RV roofs and helped or witnessed the use on many other RV's. With proper prep I have never had an issue. I have reapplied it to a roof that had bubbles from poor prep and had to pressure wash to get good adhesion but that is all it takes.
I would recommend a soap wash with broom or pressure washer and recoat every 5 years to maintain it. As far as heat reduction, that is a big reason it is popular in the southwest, I have no idea what the temp. drop is but the reflective surface is the reason for it.
It will adhere to most caulking with no issues as long as it is not silicone and is free of dirt. I have a 10x10 roof on a pool building that was plywood with a screen like mesh laid on it and coated with Elastomeric. It has been there in the Arizona sun for at least 15 years and looks like new, I have recoated it once in that time.
By the way I also think Eternabond is the best thing since peanut butter for roof repair but on a large area much more difficult to deal with.
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Old 06-25-2018, 03:30 PM   #38
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Thank you Robert!

The video I saw literally showed a piece of wood painted with two different products, one being Henry's. They held a temperature gage over the one side and it was 121*. They moved it to the other side with the Henry's on it and it dropped to 85*. Did it several times and it repeated the same.

They claimed on a 100* day it could be as much as 50* difference. It was 85* that day.

It was impressive. Make sense and like I said, I will probably be using the Henry's product and plan on redoing it every 5 or 6 years

Once done, I will report back as to the temperature difference or not.

Thank you for the advice and info. Lynne
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Old 06-25-2018, 10:30 PM   #39
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Here's a similar thread on IRV2:

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f258/penn...gs-392634.html
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Old 07-05-2018, 09:20 AM   #40
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Had my 2004 Itasca's roof sealed with FlexArmor two years ago. Alittle expensive but if you intend to keep your rig, good investment. Guaranteed for life leak free, some R- factor, some noise damping. No Chalking.
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