Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 11-27-2013, 09:04 PM   #1
Winnie-Wise
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 343
Front fender / front fender lip sealant repair

I found a year-old thread regarding resealing the front fender to the metal frame-work behind it, but can not post any questions to that thread due to how old it is.

I just discovered that I have the same problem of the fender sealant letting go from the metal frame, and it billows out at speed. One post in that thread suggested Weld-Bond 39537 but when I did a search at their website, it seems that Weld-Bond 39747 "is the product of choice when bonding steel, aluminum, SMC and fiberglass panels." 39537 seems to be for metal-to-metal bonding.

In the picture I posted, number 1 is the exterior view of the front fender, number 29 in the inside view but doesn't show the metal frame-work that the front fender actually seals to.

Any one here have any experience in this repair since the original post of that thread in Nov. 2012? One of the previous suggestions was using double-sided tape and if used, is there a heavy-duty version? Don't really want it to fail again, as when the fender starts billowing out you can't see it or hear it; someone on the freeway has to tell you.

Thank you. -RT
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Screen Shot 2013-11-27 at 7.28.34 PM.png
Views:	254
Size:	95.4 KB
ID:	50880  
__________________
Ricardo Tegarini
2005 Itasca Sunova
Workhorse Chassis W20
RTegarini is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2013, 01:57 AM   #2
Winnebago Master
 
DAN L's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 724
Quote:
Originally Posted by RTegarini View Post
I found a year-old thread regarding resealing the front fender to the metal frame-work behind it, but can not post any questions to that thread due to how old it is.

I just discovered that I have the same problem of the fender sealant letting go from the metal frame, and it billows out at speed. One post in that thread suggested Weld-Bond 39537 but when I did a search at their website, it seems that Weld-Bond 39747 "is the product of choice when bonding steel, aluminum, SMC and fiberglass panels." 39537 seems to be for metal-to-metal bonding.

In the picture I posted, number 1 is the exterior view of the front fender, number 29 in the inside view but doesn't show the metal frame-work that the front fender actually seals to.

Any one here have any experience in this repair since the original post of that thread in Nov. 2012? One of the previous suggestions was using double-sided tape and if used, is there a heavy-duty version? Don't really want it to fail again, as when the fender starts billowing out you can't see it or hear it; someone on the freeway has to tell you.

Thank you. -RT
i used jb weld regular formula. it is still holding ok.
__________________
01 WINNEBAGO 35U W20.8.1L SW Wa, Hi. Good Sam, SKP. AMSOIL fluids. BANKS ecm program. SCAN GAUGE II w/ Ally temp. 2 LIFELINE GPL-6CT AGM Batts on their sides. TST tptts. K&N panel air filter. AERO mufflers. TAYLOR plug wires. ULTRA POWER track bar. KONI fsd shocks, toad '14 smart car
DAN L is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2013, 06:15 AM   #3
Winnebago Master
 
smlranger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Glen Allen, VA
Posts: 2,169
The secret is cleaning up the metal surface well before using the epoxy bonding material. JB Weld works. Or, you can go to any automotive paint supplier and get a tube of the stuff that body shops use to attach body panels. Sika Flex 252 is one of those I believe.
__________________
'07 Country Coach Allure 470 Siskiyou Summit #31578, Cummins ISL 425; 2014 Ford F150 toad; Air Force One Toad Brake.
Glen Allen, VA; Smith Mountain Lake, VA.
smlranger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2013, 09:02 AM   #4
Winnebago Master
 
AFChap's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: ...hopefully on the road!
Posts: 1,653
Best double-sided tape to use is 3m auto trim tape from any auto parts or Walmart. It has red peel-off covering. I couldn't get access to clean and use tape, so I added a small stainless screw w/washer on one side of my coach where I had your problem.
__________________
Paul (KE5LXU) ...was fulltimin', now parttimin'
'03 Winnebago UA 40e TRADED OFF JUL 2023 / '17 Jeep Grand Cherokee toad
AFChap is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2013, 05:18 PM   #5
Winnebago Owner
 
Outbumn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Clermont, Fl
Posts: 176
I used Gorilla Glue and our fender has held for 2 years. The attached photo was the before picture.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Driver side fender 10-14-2011.jpg
Views:	262
Size:	217.0 KB
ID:	50926  
__________________
Ron & Susan, Shihpoos Sandy & TooPoo
2011 Winnebago Journey 40U
2012 Fiat 500
Outbumn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2013, 06:53 PM   #6
Winnie-Wise
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 343
Quote:
Originally Posted by AFChap View Post
Best double-sided tape to use is 3m auto trim tape from any auto parts or Walmart. It has red peel-off covering. I couldn't get access to clean and use tape, so I added a small stainless screw w/washer on one side of my coach where I had your problem.
Thanks to all for the replies; I bought some red Gorilla double-sided tape and am going to give that a try. I might also add a couple of screws from the bottom of the fender and into the metal frame on the inside of the fender. Should I use flat-head screws with a rubber washer to help prevent the fender from cracking or spydering?
__________________
Ricardo Tegarini
2005 Itasca Sunova
Workhorse Chassis W20
RTegarini is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2013, 11:33 AM   #7
Winnebago Master
 
smlranger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Glen Allen, VA
Posts: 2,169
Quote:
Originally Posted by RTegarini View Post
Thanks to all for the replies; I bought some red Gorilla double-sided tape and am going to give that a try. I might also add a couple of screws from the bottom of the fender and into the metal frame on the inside of the fender. Should I use flat-head screws with a rubber washer to help prevent the fender from cracking or spydering?
Whenever I drill fiberglass I put masking tape over the area to be drilled then drill with a sharp counter sink bit. I would use tapered head stainless screws with finish washers.
__________________
'07 Country Coach Allure 470 Siskiyou Summit #31578, Cummins ISL 425; 2014 Ford F150 toad; Air Force One Toad Brake.
Glen Allen, VA; Smith Mountain Lake, VA.
smlranger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2013, 06:03 PM   #8
Winnebago Owner
 
ladagobago's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: DW Driver -Winter Englewood FL, Summer Willingboro NJ
Posts: 116
right fender floping

I have the same problem. Gee, don't you think that Winnebago would have made all these mistakes only once.

I used three SS #8 bolts with plastic washers and locking nylon nuts. I drilled completely through the fender to the horizontal metal support in back of fender. then I used gutter sealant behind the fender as an adhesive and vibration dampener and bolted through to the metal support.

the bolts are not pull tight but only tight enough to hold the fender to the metal and stop it from pulling way. DON'T OVER TIGHTEN.

this location is about 1.5 to 2 inches below the horizontal mating surface. they already used one screw in the front. I put mine midspan across the panel and one on the bottom behind the wheel well.

Incidentally, this panel is not fiberglass but ABS plastic. you can repair this and other abs plastic by getting abs cement or make you own goop by dissolving ABS black pipe in acetone. when it is like thick glue you can fix cracks by using the glue and a backer of ABS sheeting or other abs product.

IF all this is to confusing I can get a picture for you.
__________________
La Dagobago
99 36 FL Winne Chieftain 5.9 ISB Turbo Cummins DP, 24' box with 1972 V12 XKE Jag and HD Sporty Hobby of 1970's Suzuki dirt bike restoration. Visit my blog.
ladagobago is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2014, 07:29 PM   #9
Winnie-Wise
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 343
Update: Well, took me a while to get around to fixing the front fender, but I finally did today. The fender is attached to a metal frame-work only with double-sided tape. Since there was quite a bit a tape on the metal, I'm at a loss as to why it let go. (Actually, only half did, the back half... the front section was still firmly attached so I decided not to mess with it. Most of the tape was stuck to the metal so I'm guessing that either the inside fender wasn't as clean as it should have been when they put it together, or the tape simply just does't adhere as well to the ABS plastic and lets go there more easily.

While the picture isn't very good, the angle was taken with the fender swung up about horizontally, showing the metal frame-work and remaining double-sided tape. Ideally, if all the tape had let go, I would have been able to remove all the original tape but access is very limited when part of the fender is still attached to the frame-work.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20140126_113319_624.jpg
Views:	236
Size:	148.1 KB
ID:	54744  
__________________
Ricardo Tegarini
2005 Itasca Sunova
Workhorse Chassis W20
RTegarini is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2014, 05:46 AM   #10
Winnebago Owner
 
ladagobago's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: DW Driver -Winter Englewood FL, Summer Willingboro NJ
Posts: 116
why tape does not hold

The problem with using tape is that the edges continually release, allowing water, dirt and air to attack the bonding edge. this is similar to the body skin decal or pin striping. This keeps going on until it finally fails as is the case with the front fender. applying more tape will simply extend the proper repair till the next time.

Very little sticks to ABS, so to effectively use an adhesive, the area not only needs to be cleaned very well chemically but also need to be ruffed up a little for more gripping area.

chemicals that bond well to ABS, such as methyl ethyl ketone or chloride can also be used to clean the surface. In all cases, ABS only bonds well to itself. There is however a company, LORD,which has a variety of specialty products including acrylic, epoxy and urethane lord.com .

In any case, someday you may wish to remove that fender and permanent bonding would make that difficult without damage to the panel.. That is why I used my method above. It also the likely reason Winne choice was double tape. Fast assembly and let the next person worry about it. MUch like the front windshield frame.
__________________
La Dagobago
99 36 FL Winne Chieftain 5.9 ISB Turbo Cummins DP, 24' box with 1972 V12 XKE Jag and HD Sporty Hobby of 1970's Suzuki dirt bike restoration. Visit my blog.
ladagobago is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
repair, seal


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
passenger wheel lip terrycx Running Gear, Axles, Brakes, Wheels and Tires 7 03-04-2016 06:55 PM
Anyone know where to find a 2000 Brave front fender passenger side? Goebs Winnebago Class A Motorhomes 12 04-23-2014 09:32 AM
How to replace the passenger side rear Valance/Wheel lip SaintsfannVA Running Gear, Axles, Brakes, Wheels and Tires 6 02-20-2013 12:56 PM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Winnebago Industries or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:57 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.