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Old 03-23-2011, 04:05 PM   #1
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fresh water pump comes on by itself??

Our 2001 Jouney has a strange problem with the Fresh water pump coming on without us pressing either the outside [in the water compartment] or the inside [at the control panel] switch. Have checked for some item in the compartment hitting the switch and found no such problem.

This is not a big deal when we are in the coach, but I am concerned that it could happen when the rig is in storage. For now I plan to install an in-line shut off switch as a safety.

Any suggestions or expreience from anyone as to how this could be taking place and/or how to fix????

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Old 03-23-2011, 05:38 PM   #2
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A question just to clarify the problem - are the switches for the water pump in the off position and the pump comes on?
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Old 03-23-2011, 05:59 PM   #3
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Also, what is your water presure like at the time the pump comes on? Does the pump shut off when the lines are at presure or just keep pumping?
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Old 03-23-2011, 06:57 PM   #4
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I have a 01 Journey and don't think you will have any problem when
unit is in storage. When I am off the road for a while I just hit the button
on the dash and kill all power to the Motorhome. I don't think anything
will come on until you hit the button to power everything back up.
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Old 03-23-2011, 10:31 PM   #5
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Do you have an icemaker in fridge? Some will auto turn on the pump if pressure is inadequate to fill the cube maker.
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Old 03-25-2011, 01:57 PM   #6
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Thanks for all the excellent ideas, questions and suggestions. I will answer each of you as follows:
1ciderdog--Both pump switches are in the OFF possition. At least I think they are off, because the indicator light on the control panel is not on. The light comes on when the "mystery" activation takes place. There is no indication [marking] of an off or on position on the control panel switch. I assume the outside switch is off when the bottom of the rocker is pressed. [same as the compartment light right next to it.]
Tomwalt--Presure from shore power is normal 35-40psi with my regularor connected. The pump comes on when a tap is opened and shuts off when the tap is closed and the indicator light stays on in the "mystery" activation mode.
01Journey-- Yes, of course you are correct. I simply did not think of that with regard to this recent pump activation problem. I too open this switch in storage so that will handle the situation. We are new owners of this "Little older Journey" and find the unit to be wonderful in every way. Have had to spend a few bucks to bring her up to specs [tires-valve adjustment-filters-oil & A/F stuff like that] I think we are now good to go.
MegaRoadie--Yes we have an icemaker, but I disconnected the water to it and tied up the activation wand. The icemaker looked like a pain in the ass to me [winterizing ect] besides I don't like ice in my beer anyway. Good idea, Thank you
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Old 03-26-2011, 07:25 PM   #7
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"There is no indication [marking] of an off or on position on the control panel switch. I assume the outside switch is off when the bottom of the rocker is pressed. [same as the compartment light right next to it.]"
These are wired as "three way switches". This nmeans that you can turn the pump on in the outside compartment and turn it off at the panel. This means that the switch position has no relivence. I suggest that the pump is being turned on by a demand system within the coach. Maybe the ice maker. You may have disconnected the water to the icemaker but the sensor may be still active.
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Old 03-30-2011, 04:38 PM   #8
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Thanks Porchdog,

Your idea makes perfect sense. To avoid the frig. demand problem I will go with my original plan to add an in line shut off switch to the pump power supply. That should cure the problem and allow me to get power to the pump when I need it and stop the "demand" from turning it on when I don't want it to.

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Old 03-31-2011, 10:33 AM   #9
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I would be curious if the switches are in the off position where does the pump get the electricy to cycle? A possible cause for the pump to cycle could be the valves in the pump itself. If water pressure is releasing past the valves back towards the tank the pump would then run to rebuild pressure. There are rebuild kits available for many of the RV pumps.
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Old 03-31-2011, 10:53 AM   #10
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location of all of the pump switches

do you know where all of the water pump switches are?

maybe there is one that is still "ON" that you are not checking.

we have one outside and 2 inside (kitchen and bath area)
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Old 04-01-2011, 10:01 PM   #11
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When all the switches are in the "off" position can you turn on a faucet and get water? If you can then there must be a switch someplace that's not turned off. Or one of the switches is broken and not really turning off. Hopefully you can find which is what. Things like this can be very very frustrating. The Norcold Recall box on my 2004 Meridian starts making a rapid clicking noise anytime the outside temps get above 75-77 and no one can determine what is causing it.

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Old 04-05-2011, 03:39 PM   #12
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Tnanks again everyone. I am sure there are only two manual control switches. I agree they are wired three way. It must be the icemaker as suggested by Porchdog. I therefore will add a cutoff inline switch right at the pump power supply. That will end it. I just have to remember to turn the new switch on when we need the pump. I'm only 76 so that should not e a problem for a few years.
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Old 04-07-2011, 02:29 AM   #13
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It is true, if the water pump is turned on, when the icemaker opens a valve to fill the ice maker, the pump will switch on momentarily. Just as it would if you opened a faucet, or had a leak.

If the pump switches are both turned off, the water pump should not run, even if you have demand from the icemaker, or turn a faucet on.

You don't need to alter anything at the icemaker.

I would look at the wiring at the two switches, a switch, or a wiring problem must be still feeding power to the pump.

Do keep in mind, when the pump is powered up, if you have a small leak, the pump will come on periodically to boost the pressure back to full. (I know, have had such a leak)
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Old 04-10-2011, 02:39 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pine tree View Post
Tnanks again everyone. I am sure there are only two manual control switches. I agree they are wired three way. It must be the icemaker as suggested by Porchdog. I therefore will add a cutoff inline switch right at the pump power supply. That will end it. I just have to remember to turn the new switch on when we need the pump. I'm only 76 so that should not e a problem for a few years.
Pine Tree
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Sometimes these control switches are in unusual places. We have 3 in our coach. one is in the bathroom, one is by the outside shower and the last is by the tank level check area in the kitchenn. (ours is located on a panel below the microwave.) That area shows: black, gray and fresh water level, a switch for the pump, a switch for the water heater and one for the Generator.

Our coach is older than yours but logic says if you can turn on the water there should be a switch for the pump.

Hope this helps.
And if you have found each switch and they are turned off the pump should not run because it needs power/electric to work.
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Old 04-10-2011, 02:45 PM   #15
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3 switches on mine as well, one below microwave on tank level board, one in bathroom and one at outside shower.
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Old 04-10-2011, 05:03 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pine tree View Post
Thanks for all the excellent ideas, questions and suggestions. I will answer each of you as follows:
1ciderdog--Both pump switches are in the OFF possition. At least I think they are off, because the indicator light on the control panel is not on. The light comes on when the "mystery" activation takes place. There is no indication [marking] of an off or on position on the control panel switch. I assume the outside switch is off when the bottom of the rocker is pressed. [same as the compartment light right next to it.]
Tomwalt--Presure from shore power is normal 35-40psi with my regularor connected. The pump comes on when a tap is opened and shuts off when the tap is closed and the indicator light stays on in the "mystery" activation mode.
01Journey-- Yes, of course you are correct. I simply did not think of that with regard to this recent pump activation problem. I too open this switch in storage so that will handle the situation. We are new owners of this "Little older Journey" and find the unit to be wonderful in every way. Have had to spend a few bucks to bring her up to specs [tires-valve adjustment-filters-oil & A/F stuff like that] I think we are now good to go.
MegaRoadie--Yes we have an icemaker, but I disconnected the water to it and tied up the activation wand. The icemaker looked like a pain in the ass to me [winterizing ect] besides I don't like ice in my beer anyway. Good idea, Thank you
Pine Tree aka The Old Fisherman

A common problem that causes this is a leak. 12volt water pumps will come on if they think they need to pump because of water flow. If you have a leak, the pressure drops and the pump will come on. As soon as it senses enough pressure it will shut off.

You don't have to have a water leak, it can be air leakage will will also cause this.

The easy way to check to see is shut off the residential water outside and then turn the water pump on. It should not come on by itself. If it cycles after a while, you have an air or water leak.

If you can't find water anywhere then checking for the air leak is a bit more difficult but less painful since you aren't going to have water spouting out places.

Checking the pump itself is easy. Disconnect the outlet from the pump and cap it. Turn the pump on. it should come on for a second then shut off. If it comes on after a while the leak is inside the water pump or behind it, then most likely air.

Since this check is easy to do it will give you peace of mind since nothing bad can happen on a trip. You can attend to the pump when you have time.

I carry a spare water pump because of all things, no water, no trip unless you are always at a park or water source.
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Old 04-11-2011, 07:47 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maybesoon View Post
A common problem that causes this is a leak. 12volt water pumps will come on if they think they need to pump because of water flow. If you have a leak, the pressure drops and the pump will come on. As soon as it senses enough pressure it will shut off.

You don't have to have a water leak, it can be air leakage will will also cause this.

The easy way to check to see is shut off the residential water outside and then turn the water pump on. It should not come on by itself. If it cycles after a while, you have an air or water leak.

If you can't find water anywhere then checking for the air leak is a bit more difficult but less painful since you aren't going to have water spouting out places.

Checking the pump itself is easy. Disconnect the outlet from the pump and cap it. Turn the pump on. it should come on for a second then shut off. If it comes on after a while the leak is inside the water pump or behind it, then most likely air.

Since this check is easy to do it will give you peace of mind since nothing bad can happen on a trip. You can attend to the pump when you have time.

I carry a spare water pump because of all things, no water, no trip unless you are always at a park or water source.
Maybesoon, This is all good info. But as you said they need to turn the pump on. So logic says if the water pump is starting/ running then there is a switch on someplace in the coach. The pump needs electric current to work . So this is another way to check the pump. Disconnect from park water hook up.
Turn water faucet on. If pump runs . There is a switch on, a short in or defective switch
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Old 04-11-2011, 11:59 AM   #18
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Darned water pump in my 05 Itasca just started to stay on after a short run...must shut it off at a switch then all is well till the first faucet opened then it wont shut off. Anyone know where the reed switch or pressure switch is located on these newer ShurFlows??? Can I re[place just the pressure switch or is new pump in order here ???
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