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Old 05-05-2009, 01:03 PM   #1
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flooring upgrade

I have read a few accounts in this forum about replacing the carpet with laminate or wood flooring. Most of the projects seem to stop at the edge of the slide overhang. I have a 2001 Winnebago Brave 33V. Can anyone tell me if the raised platform that the dinette and sofa sit on is an integral part of the slide or can it be removed to provide access to area under the overhang?

Thanks,
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Old 05-05-2009, 01:20 PM   #2
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Not sure what it is that you want to do. I have replaced the rug in our coach with "Pergo" laminate flooring. I put the laminate just under the edge of the slide. In the dinette area I removed the dinette & replaced it with a counter 2 cabinets used the original table & brought in two chairs. We replaced the sofa with a queen size sleeper sofa. In that area we also placed the laminate just under the edge of the sofa. Terminated the laminate a little more than an inch after the seat belt post. If you view the photos notice the ends of the dinette
floor. With the dinette removed (on our coach) the front end had to squared off & the rear end is continued to the wall. The inside edge includes a sweep built into the edge to keep trash from under it. Photos at:
http://picasaweb.google.com/sight04
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Old 05-05-2009, 01:27 PM   #3
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That pergo looks great. How big a job was it?
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Old 05-05-2009, 03:28 PM   #4
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Thumbs up WoW !!!!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by pace89 View Post
Not sure what it is that you want to do. I have replaced the rug in our coach with "Pergo" laminate flooring. I put the laminate just under the edge of the slide. In the dinette area I removed the dinette & replaced it with a counter 2 cabinets used the original table & brought in two chairs. We replaced the sofa with a queen size sleeper sofa. In that area we also placed the laminate just under the edge of the sofa. Terminated the laminate a little more than an inch after the seat belt post. If you view the photos notice the ends of the dinette
floor. With the dinette removed (on our coach) the front end had to squared off & the rear end is continued to the wall. The inside edge includes a sweep built into the edge to keep trash from under it. Photos at:
http://picasaweb.google.com/sight04
Wow!!!! Best I have seen to date!
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Old 05-05-2009, 04:11 PM   #5
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The biggest issue was the cabinets. Since I needed to keep the countertop under the window frame I had to cut some off the top & bottom of the cabinets. I salvaged some of the oak paneling from the dinette to cover all the holes in the wall from the table hardware. If you noticed I also replaced the stair treads in the entry, the others were to hard to sweep. I selected to go from wall to wall instead of front to back which resulted in more waste but I think it will be easier to repair if need be. Also I used a "shoe" molding instead of 1/4 round, shoe is wider in one dimension. The other areas that required ingenuity was to square off the slide in the front & extend the end of the slide to the wall & have it be sturdy. Overall fairly easy. Think carefully about where you make the transitions (Carpet/Laminate). We have about 6000 miles on the coach since the replacement & it is holding up fine. Good Luck.
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Old 05-21-2009, 12:24 AM   #6
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With a lot of encouragement from this forum and the wifey, I replaced all of my flooring as well. Tore out all the carpet and galley vinyl and replaced it with ALLURE flooring from Lowe's. It's vinyl planks with an adhesive strip on two sides, floats over the subfloor, and wears and looks fantastic.

The slide under the galley has large rollers, they ride right up over the laminate edge. Under the dinette are two long plastic slides, but they clear the floor since the new laminate is lower than the old carpet and pad. I trimmed the carpet back to within a couple of inches of the extended slide, turned it under, stapled it down, and ran the new floor right up to it. On the sofa side, just removed the front valance panel and cut the carpet back so when it was turned under it was behind the panel. Definitely looks factory, actually better than factory.

Now, once a day when we're camping, we sweep dust and dirt out the door, and a damp mop at the end of the trip keeps it looking new. The dogs were driving us nuts with the carpet.

Highly recommended and well worth the effort. We have the cherry cabinets and the floor is cherry, it matches exceedingly well.









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Old 05-27-2009, 11:16 PM   #7
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Quote:
scattercreek said:
Thank you for your response to my post. We were minutes from leaving on a short vacation when I saw your post, so I had to put off a reply for a bit. your job is beautiful and I am gaining info from every picture I see. In my post, I was trying to determine the structure of the slide floor to find out of it could be de-constructed allowing access to all of the main floor under the slide. Again, thanks for the response and pics. Nice job.
Larry
I thought about doing that as well, but didn't want to completely tear out the dinette. I suspect there's a plywood covering over a metal frame, but you would have to get the seats off, the carpet, and see how the panel is fastened down.

I wanted the glides that are under there to still ride on the carpet, not the floor. They are about 5' long and are a nylon/plastic material. Over the vinyl floor in the galley they are rollers. If you remove all of the carpet I think you would want to setup a roller system like the factory did, otherwise the glides will scratch your new flooring.
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Old 05-28-2009, 01:18 PM   #8
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Did you put plywood over the sub-flooring before you installed the Allure? You sure did a good job!
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Old 05-28-2009, 03:22 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnsonusn View Post
Did you put plywood over the sub-flooring before you installed the Allure? You sure did a good job!
Thanks!! We are sure tickled with it.

The plywood is there from the factory. It's actually a pretty nice sub-floor.

The ALLURE flooring is nice stuff but it does scratch fairly easily. I'm not sure about it long haul, but I did a lot of research on it before putting it down. It was cheap enough that worse-case I could just remove it and put something else down. Some folks have had trouble with it sticking down where they installed it in a basement. I have had none of those issues, it's flat and smooth, really stuck to itself. It's been down for over 6 months now and we do a lot of desert camping so it gets pretty hard wear.

I have laminate flooring in the house and while it looks great and holds up well, I was concerned about the slide rollers going up over the plank edge. I guess it could be beveled. Plus, if any water sits on the laminate, it swells the seams and looks like crap. Don't ever put that stuff in a kitchen or bath, motorhome as well. Maybe some of the other brands are better, the stuff I got is click-lock, 20 year flooring from Europe. Was supposed to be as good as or better than Pergo. I'm not sure, I'm thinking they're pretty much all the same. I've noticed the high-end coaches are going ceramic tile or just fancy vinyl. I would probably go to a high-end Armstrong or similar vinyl floor if the Allure doesn't hold up. So far I think it's going to be great.

I'm getting some very faint scratches where the slide glide comes out over the floor. We sweep before closing the slide, but if there's any sand in there it will pick it up and scratch the floor with it. I guess if it gets real bad over time I can just replace those planks; I hung on to some extra planks.
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Old 05-29-2009, 08:23 AM   #10
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Regarding laminate and water; When we put down Armstrong laminate the instructions said to use a special waterproof glue on the seams in areas like the kitchen and bathroom.
We didn't install laminate in the bathroom but we did use the glue in the kitchen in front of the sink and refrigerator and around the stairwell and entry. It's been down about two years and no problems so far.
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Old 06-02-2009, 10:03 PM   #11
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I did it in 06. On my slide, I was able to bring it in about 18 inches and tilt the front of the slide up. While tilted up/back, I used a couple of long 2x4s to brace from the top of the slide to the floor/wall intersection on the other side of the room. This held the bottom of the slide up and gave me enough room to finish getting the carpet and staples out (put lumber supports underneath slide when arms were underneath). Then, while still tilted back (bottom up), I put 3 rows of laminate together (foam backing is part of each piece), slid it under to the MH edge, then let the slide down on it. After that, just worked to the other side of the room. But I have told others how I tilted the slide and they could not do it, so I guess they work different ways. I learned the tilting method from a forum, and fortunately it worked for me. I used a good laminate by Dupont from Home Depot. It looks like grey slate tiles and really brightens up the room. Pics can be seen on my web site: http://www.steveheadley.com
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