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Old 05-05-2012, 05:27 PM   #21
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Scott,

Thanks for the tip on the lacquer thinner. I think I might make this my 2012/2013 winter project, to get that roof smooth.

I do believe that a smooth roof might add to one's mileage. Look at what's done to airplanes to make them go thru the air with the best fuel mileage possible.. Smooth rivets, smooth aluminum surface - I'm sure it helps (boy do I wish it would add 2 mpg, but it sure can't hurt).
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Old 05-06-2012, 08:36 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KIX View Post
Scott, In your sig line......is SDFD San Deigo Fire Department?

Do you recognize the name Lee Vandenburg?
KIX,
Sorry for the late reply on this. No Sir, I don't. It's around an 1100 person department and I've been retired for just shy of 3 years. I was in training stations for half of my career and then I moved into specialty stations for the other half. In the specialty ones, you don't see that many newer boys and girls come through as you would in training stations. So, I lost touch with many of the folks later in my career. So, if he's on, how long and maybe where has he been stationed, if you would know that?
Scott
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Old 05-06-2012, 09:44 AM   #23
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Scott, that is a fine job you have done on your roof. I'd be interested in knowing which polishing compound are you used.

Also want to mention, there is a product called WoodyWax (sold on-line or in marine stores like West Marine), which is made to wax non-skid fiberglass areas on boats, and they remain non-slippery when wet. Dirt and dried fish blood rinse right off, and it takes very little effort (and product), to apply. It might be the perfect solution for a polished fiberglass roof.
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Old 05-06-2012, 08:09 PM   #24
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KIX,
Sorry for the late reply on this. No Sir, I don't. It's around an 1100 person department and I've been retired for just shy of 3 years. I was in training stations for half of my career and then I moved into specialty stations for the other half. In the specialty ones, you don't see that many newer boys and girls come through as you would in training stations. So, I lost touch with many of the folks later in my career. So, if he's on, how long and maybe where has he been stationed, if you would know that?
Scott
He retired about 4 - 5 years ago. Don't know what station but somerthing to do with Rescue.
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Old 05-10-2012, 06:49 PM   #25
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He retired about 4 - 5 years ago. Don't know what station but somerthing to do with Rescue.
KIX,
Again, sorry for the late reply. Just got back to this thread. Nope, still don't recognise the name. Are you sure it was San Diego City Fire, he worked for? Even though I did not get around too much in the last part of my career I'd know a person who'd retired a year or two before me, even in that large a department. It's just the newer young bucks that I was not too familiar with.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptBill View Post
Scott, that is a fine job you have done on your roof. I'd be interested in knowing which polishing compound are you used.

Also want to mention, there is a product called WoodyWax (sold on-line or in marine stores like West Marine), which is made to wax non-skid fiberglass areas on boats, and they remain non-slippery when wet. Dirt and dried fish blood rinse right off, and it takes very little effort (and product), to apply. It might be the perfect solution for a polished fiberglass roof.
Well CaptBill,
I'll certainly take it under advisement. I did finish the buffing today. Good thing too, it was getting "HOT" under that cover, even for the 1/2 hour I was up there finishing things up. Man is that one seriously shiny roof now. Yahooooooo. Even a fly couldn't use it for a landing zone, he's slide right off the end and CRASH

Today I tried some "Kit" wax that I use on the car and it does well in terms of ease of application and removal. Being on a roof like that, and exposed to direct sun light, WHEN that rig is use, I'm not sure ANY wax will endure the elements for even a decent amount of time. I'm not a glutton for punishment but, I figure maybe say, once every 6 months to once a year for wax on that roof, if the buff keeps it nice in between wax jobs. Time will tell. Thanks for the suggestion. I've got a West Marine about 35 miles from us so, it gives me and the D/W a good reason to jump on the bike and go for a nice ride and check that stuff out. Thanks again.
Scott
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Old 05-11-2012, 09:52 PM   #26
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Capt Bill,
I forgot to answer your question on the type of polishing paste/compound. I don't have the name of it at the minute. It's a professional compound that painters use for cutting paint after painting autos. It's called a "Cut and Buff" job. I don't know how much you know about that stuff but, in the old days, some painters would shoot a lacquer base paint job on a car and because it dries so fast, it would not "gloss" over like enamels and urethane's.

So, after the paint was applied and dried which, took about a day, then the paint job was sanded with grades of sand paper around 1000 grit to 2000 grit. From then on it was cutting compound and man, those paint jobs were considerably shinier (weird word) and phenomenally smoother than just about all enamel and urethane jobs. So, that's where I got the cutting compound from.

Any auto paint supply store has all of that stuff available. Way better selection than auto parts stores.
Scott
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Old 05-11-2012, 10:08 PM   #27
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While laquer thinner is a good idea, and I use it for many cleaning jobs....

If your rig has a catalyzed urathane base coat/clear coat paint job, laquer thinner won"t touch it.

Urathane reducer will, but that is some nasty stuff, not recommended for anything beyond thinning paint prior to spraying, or cleaning your spray gun after using such stuff.
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Old 05-12-2012, 11:34 AM   #28
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While laquer thinner is a good idea, and I use it for many cleaning jobs....

If your rig has a catalyzed urathane base coat/clear coat paint job, laquer thinner won"t touch it.

Urathane reducer will, but that is some nasty stuff, not recommended for anything beyond thinning paint prior to spraying, or cleaning your spray gun after using such stuff.
Jim,
You're ahead of me on this issue. I've dealt with lacquer thinner for years and it's always worked for me in most clean up issues. But, if as you say, the coating is something that Lacquer thinner won't budge, well then it's off to the other cleaners. I'd try a small spot here and there to see what works.

By the way, after rounding up some more compound, I finished the top of mine yesterday. Man, I almost can't tell the difference between the gleam of the top and the sides. And my sides are like a mirror, you could shave by looking at the side of our coach. Yep, it was some work, especially because the boneheads from the factory or some aftermarket installers tracked silicone sealer all over the roof. I had to scrape that stuff right down to the fiberglass to get it off. Then, run the polishing bad and compound over it.

Now, I've got about 1/4 of the roof covered in wax, another day or so and it will be done for at least a year, maybe two if I'm lucky. I'm getting too old for this sh...
Scott
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Old 05-13-2012, 05:42 AM   #29
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Hey guys,

When I get on the roof I wear an old pair of Sperry Topsider deck shoes. Makes traction much better.

I go the old easy route and use Mop n Glo. Lazy in my old age I guess.
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Old 05-13-2012, 05:46 AM   #30
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Hey guys,

When I get on the roof I wear an old pair of Sperry Topsider deck shoes. Makes traction much better.

I go the old easy route and use Mop n Glo. Lazy in my old age I guess.
Scott, we were probably at some crashes together. I worked San Diego CHP for nine years from 1969 until 1978 before moving northl
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Old 05-16-2012, 07:37 AM   #31
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Great job on the roof. Also what type of storage do you have and where did you get it?
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Old 05-16-2012, 11:25 AM   #32
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Scott, we were probably at some crashes together. I worked San Diego CHP for nine years from 1969 until 1978 before moving northl
Chief,
Well Sir, you were about 2 years, plus or minus, too early for me to have served some time together on some of our fine ( yeah sure) San Diego roads and freeways. I was hired on, 1-11-80 for SDFD. I'm assuming you're retired too, ???
Scott

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Great job on the roof. Also what type of storage do you have and where did you get it?
ustwo,
Thank you Sir, for your nice comment. The cover for the motor home is one of those "Swap meet" style, pole and interlocking corners, gables, feet and ends, with a plastic type cover, held in place with a gazillion little bungees with balls on them. It's a real long story but, we looked into covers, all types, and in the end, between not knowing if we needed a "Permit" or not for this cover and the cost, we chose this style and size. It's an 18' wide by 40' long by, 15' high on the peak.

It covers our 36' rig very well. I've developed a "curtain" front door for it. I place a tightly strung cable with a spring on one end across the apex of the corners. Then, I purchased some "shade cloth" with grommets in it and, used regular shower curtain hanger clips to hang that shade cloth on that cable. The shade cloth is the 85% stuff. Meaning, it holds back, 85% of the sun against the front of the coach. When it comes time to move the coach, it's pretty simple. I slide the curtain all the way to one side, vice grip on the cable to stop the curtain from sliding back, then go and unhook the cable from the opposite side and move it to the curtain side and that's it. Start up the coach and drive it out from under the cover.

And, everything in reverse when I'm done backing the coach in its home. So far, that covers's been up for just shy of a year and the cheapo plastic tarp that we originally purchased with all the other components, looks like it's doing quite well. Not sure how long it will last but, we'll see. Any cover is better than no cover at all. But, a drive under is the best. As long as you can keep that big beast out of the sun when it's not in use. When it was all said and done, that cover, ran me about $1450.00 total, out the door. And we did the install. Piece of cake. It took about 3.5 hours, start to finish.
Scott
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Old 05-16-2012, 04:50 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIRE UP View Post
Capt Bill,
I forgot to answer your question on the type of polishing paste/compound. I don't have the name of it at the minute. It's a professional compound that painters use for cutting paint after painting autos. It's called a "Cut and Buff" job. I don't know how much you know about that stuff but, in the old days, some painters would shoot a lacquer base paint job on a car and because it dries so fast, it would not "gloss" over like enamels and urethane's.

So, after the paint was applied and dried which, took about a day, then the paint job was sanded with grades of sand paper around 1000 grit to 2000 grit. From then on it was cutting compound and man, those paint jobs were considerably shinier (weird word) and phenomenally smoother than just about all enamel and urethane jobs. So, that's where I got the cutting compound from.

Any auto paint supply store has all of that stuff available. Way better selection than auto parts stores.
Scott
Thanks Scott. I know there are quite a few polishing compounds out there, both at the auto-parts store, and places like Walmart. Probably any of them will work, but I was curious about the one you used, since you had such spectacular results.

I just noticed that you ride a GL1800, and are also a 'ham'. K3RBP here, and have an 06 gl1800, which is triked. I still like 2 wheels better, but the DW prefers the trike.
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