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Old 04-14-2013, 02:38 PM   #1
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Eternabond Question

Going to tackle taping the roof seams. I am planning to clean roof and gutters and drop the tape to the bottom of the gutter in order to maintain a straight application. Have not decided if I should use the 4" tape or the 6" tape. Suggestions?
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Old 04-14-2013, 02:58 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by GaDawgFan View Post
Going to tackle taping the roof seams. I am planning to clean roof and gutters and drop the tape to the bottom of the gutter in order to maintain a straight application. Have not decided if I should use the 4" tape or the 6" tape. Suggestions?
IMO 4" is plenty.
Mine were done only 9 mo ago by a friend who scraped/removed all of the old caulk and cleaned the area with solvent before applying 4" wide Eternabond.
He did his four years before, with 4", and has had no problems.
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Old 04-14-2013, 03:04 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by GaDawgFan View Post
Going to tackle taping the roof seams. I am planning to clean roof and gutters and drop the tape to the bottom of the gutter in order to maintain a straight application. Have not decided if I should use the 4" tape or the 6" tape. Suggestions?
It kinda' depends on your roof. In my case (a HR Endeavor) the seams where the front and rear caps meet the roof have a fairly large overlap with large rivets. 4" does not bridge this with sufficient margin so 6" is necessary.
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Old 04-14-2013, 03:47 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by bruceisla View Post

It kinda' depends on your roof. In my case (a HR Endeavor) the seams where the front and rear caps meet the roof have a fairly large overlap with large rivets. 4" does not bridge this with sufficient margin so 6" is necessary.
Good point. In my case the seam and gutter are very close. I am leaning towards the 4".
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Old 04-14-2013, 04:15 PM   #5
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A lot of folks on this forum are fans of eternabond tape. I am not. I'm a believer in using what the OEM recommends for maintaining seams.

Eternabond does work. It doesn't come off easily, once you apply it. My opinion... and you know how that saying goes..
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Old 04-14-2013, 05:32 PM   #6
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eternabond

I did my roof 5 years ago on a 35' Itasca.I bought the 50' x 4 inch roll of Eternabond and split it to 2" wide.It has worked very well.I also put the bottom edge to the bottom of the rain gutter.
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Old 04-14-2013, 05:43 PM   #7
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A lot of folks on this forum are fans of eternabond tape. I am not.
I'm a believer in using what the OEM recommends for maintaining seams.
My '96 Safari has fiberglass caps and a fiberglass, (Filon), roof, (no crappy rubber roof here).
Since I have owned my coach, (12 years), I have had to scrape off the factory "applied/recommend" caulk, (and I've re-caulked those seams with the "recommended" caulk) every 2 years to prevent it from leaking.
IMO, the OEM does not always know, (or use), what is best!
Hopefully the Eternabond will last longer than 2 years.
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Old 04-14-2013, 10:00 PM   #8
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It only took one trip to Forest City and their price for checking/caulking the seams, and one attempt on my part to convince me that Eternabond was the answer. I used the 2" tape, and it was wide enough to drop into the channel and still provide coverage above, and the tape doesn't show enough to even notice. Make sure you use acetone or another solvent to thoroughly clean the gutters. Mine's been on a little over a year and still looks like new.
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Old 04-15-2013, 06:23 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mel stuplich View Post
My '96 Safari has fiberglass caps and a fiberglass, (Filon), roof, (no crappy rubber roof here).
Since I have owned my coach, (12 years), I have had to scrape off the factory "applied/recommend" caulk, (and I've re-caulked those seams with the "recommended" caulk) every 2 years to prevent it from leaking.
IMO, the OEM does not always know, (or use), what is best!
Hopefully the Eternabond will last longer than 2 years.
Yup ... a lot depends on vintage. My Endeavor is a 97 and the products used in 97 are just not as good as those currently available. The "old" tape, as originally used, began to fail (the outer surface was deteriorating and peeling at edges) ... it's old ... worked good enough for years.
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Old 04-15-2013, 07:43 AM   #10
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I did what you intend by wrapping the tape around the roof edge to the gutter. However, as you no doubt know, Eternabond really sticks to whatever it touches and I had a problem. My roof seam was not flat, rather it had a bulge as it wrapped around the roof edge, and the tape wrinkled as it tried to conform it over the non-flat surface. Once I saw the wrinkling, it was too late since the tape was stuck and there was no going back. I should have installed short sections around the roof edges, then added a long straight section between the edges. I will probably use a heat gun to remove the wrinkled sections and try for a smoother application at the roof edges.

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Originally Posted by GaDawgFan View Post
Going to tackle taping the roof seams. I am planning to clean roof and gutters and drop the tape to the bottom of the gutter in order to maintain a straight application. Have not decided if I should use the 4" tape or the 6" tape. Suggestions?
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Old 04-15-2013, 07:48 AM   #11
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What method did you use to split the 4" to 2"?

Quote:
Originally Posted by George Schweikle View Post
I did what you intend by wrapping the tape around the roof edge to the gutter. However, as you no doubt know, Eternabond really sticks to whatever it touches and I had a problem. My roof seam was not flat, rather it had a bulge as it wrapped around the roof edge, and the tape wrinkled as it tried to conform it over the non-flat surface. Once I saw the wrinkling, it was too late since the tape was stuck and there was no going back. I should have installed short sections around the roof edges, then added a long straight section between the edges. I will probably use a heat gun to remove the wrinkled sections and try for a smoother application at the roof edges.
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Old 04-16-2013, 03:32 PM   #12
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For the best results use the Eternabond cleaner and primer The Eternabond video library might be a help.
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Old 04-16-2013, 05:24 PM   #13
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eternabond

I split the 50 foot long roll of 4 inch Eternabond to 2 inch wide with an exacto knife and metal yard stick. Did it on a picnic table,unroll 4 inch roll while rolling up two 2 inch rolls. Very slow but ended up perfect.
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Old 04-17-2013, 07:57 PM   #14
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The two inch wide tape worked well for me on a 2005 Winnebago. Its been on six years.
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Old 07-29-2013, 02:35 PM   #15
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I used the 2" and installed it in October 2005, the white covering on the tape is now showing signs of deterioration. About half the length of the drivers side. That side seems to get the intense sunlight. The rest looks good. It has been almost 8 years.
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:51 PM   #16
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Gee... interesting thread since just today I got inspired and I applied 2" tape on my 05' seams. The Eternabond seemed to be a much simpler and longer lasting "fix" for the deteriorating caulk in the seam. I used the Eternabond spray solvent for the cleaning step. Man, you best get it placed just right once the adhesive is exposed. It's about as sticky as anything could be. I did the length of the wall (39k) with a continuos piece. I worked off the ladder in about 4 ft. sections and to minimize wrinkles or bubbles, and also used the Eternabond steel roller and their plastic squeegee to press the tape into the gutter and over the seam joint. With the tape placed in the gutter, I pulled the protective film off with one hand while pulling (slightly stretching) the tape and roll ahead in the gutter with the other hand, again working about 4 ft. sections at a time. I used the black tape for our Forest paint color which blended well.

Sure hope I never have to pull this tape off

cheers,
Joopy
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Old 08-11-2013, 07:57 AM   #17
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Just finished installing 2" black eternabond on our roof seams. I used acetone for prep, and took my time. I don't think I will need to worry about any holding or leak problems for a long time. I also covered the front and rear cap seems with 4" white, went over old caulk with ease! The hardest part was up and down the ladder, could only reach about 4' at a time!
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Old 08-11-2013, 10:06 AM   #18
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Like the OP's coach, we had a 2000 Horizon. I did the fabric backed tape (the vinyl/plastic was not available back then) The Winne roof panels slide into a slot on the gutter rail trim and then the seam where the two meet is caulked. I split the 4 inch tape and then scribed a pencil line of the roof, two inches from the bottom of the gutter. Leave the backing on the tape until you are ready to actually place it. Hard to move!! Use the factory edge of the tape on the scribed line to get a straight line. Pull off a few inches of backing and press into place. Working from a ladder is almost a necessity. When I got it all in place I followed with a wall paper joint roller and applied a lot of pressure to ensure a good seal. Pressed the inside of gutter with a lot of finger pressure as well. Then painted the UV coating that EB furnished with the tape. Two coats actually. After about a week, the tape looked like it was part of the roof. It was still in place and looked the same when we sold the coach for a new one 6 years later. EB is good stuff and works very well
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Old 08-11-2013, 09:31 PM   #19
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Just as a follow up to my original post. I applied the eternabond tape in late April. I was up on the roof this weekend to replace the TV antenna and was impressed by the the way the tape has sealed. No ripples or bubbles. In the end, I did go with the 4".
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