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Old 09-29-2006, 01:17 PM   #1
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Our 2004 Sightseer 27C roof seam is OK. I just checked. I am going to get some Eternabond and seal it anyhow.

It would seem two inch tape would be wide enough fore and aft. I need to know how far down into the drip channel (or gutter) I should go. There is a 1/4 inch lip when the roof ends and the channel begins.

I don't think going into the channel would be a good idea. Or is it?

To those who have actually done this: How did you do it, exactly?

Thanks
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Old 09-29-2006, 01:17 PM   #2
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Our 2004 Sightseer 27C roof seam is OK. I just checked. I am going to get some Eternabond and seal it anyhow.

It would seem two inch tape would be wide enough fore and aft. I need to know how far down into the drip channel (or gutter) I should go. There is a 1/4 inch lip when the roof ends and the channel begins.

I don't think going into the channel would be a good idea. Or is it?

To those who have actually done this: How did you do it, exactly?

Thanks
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Old 09-29-2006, 04:37 PM   #3
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I did our Itasca Horizon roof seams a couple of years ago and split the 4" tape because it was just too much for the job. The 2" is easier to handle.
When you check the seam, make sure you press in from the side. The caulk can look great, but not be stuck to one side or the other. I guess you could get by w/o lapping the EB into the gutter. I don't know if all Winne edges finish up the same of not. I let ours go to the bottom of the gutter and this gave me something like an inch+ to lap up on the roof. Our coach stays in a shed when not in use so it does not collect debris in the gutter, but perhaps if one stayed outside all the time debris could collect in the gutter. I do feel you get a better seal when you lap it from the roof all the way down the side of the gutter channel.

I probably did a bit of overkill. I bought the caulk while at the factory and recaulked. I did not ever want to have to do that again so I added EB on top of the caulk seam.
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Old 09-29-2006, 05:05 PM   #4
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I ordered 2" x 50' rolls of White eternabond and roller tool from:

http://bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=15115

ETERNABOND ROOFSEAL WHITE 2" X 50' ROLL RSW-2-50 $22.95 per roll

PRODUCT: ETERNABOND ROOFSEAL WHITE.
2" WIDE X 50' ROLL. PRICE/ROLL. Recommended for smaller sized permanent roof repairs on all types of roofs.

APPLICATIONS: RoofSeal enables instant and easy permanent roof repair and waterproofing. Eternabond's RoofSeal White is the best solution for leak repairs on all types of roofs. RoofSeal can also be used for corrosion protection in tough environments and conditions all types of roof materials, gutters, awnings, pond liners etc. The specialized white facing has be proven to be UV stable, even after 16 years in full sunlight.

The patented adhesive/moisture sealant has an integrated primer which enables RoofSeal to aggressively and permanently BOND with the surface it is installed on. Perfect for re-seaming all roofs, regardless of the material. Rubber, fiberglass, aluminum, modified, shingle, PVC, TPO, SBS, PVC, BUR, APP asphalt, steel, hot-tar, etc. RoofSeal makes a permanent water-tight seal. RoofSeal provides instant long-term repair of damaged roofs.

NOTE: This is the same product as Eternabond "Miracle RV Roof Tape" but is cut for us in 50' roll lengths rather than 37'

SIZE:
Thickness: 35 +/- 2 mils
Roll Sizes: Standard: 2", 4", 6" and 12". Special order of 8", 24, and 48"
Colors: White

SURFACE PREPARATION:
The surfaces to be sealed must be clean, dry and free of loose rust, scale, dust, talc and dirt. Any oil, grease, silicone or other contaminates should be first removed with a suitable solvent/cleaner.
For older asphalt shingle and granulated cap sheet roofs, use a stiff brush to remove all loose granules and surface elements.

APPLICATION:
Install Eternabond RoofSeal by gradually peeling away the plastic release liner while rubbing the RoofSeal into the surface.

Hint: prevent bubbles under the product by using your hand to squeegee out air by wiping your hand towards the roll as you set the tape to the surface.

Overlap RoofSeal from the repair area to a good area by a minimum of 2 inches. Overlap RoofSeal to RoofSeal seams by a minimum of 2 inches.

Important: Use a roller to activate the MicroSealant and permanently set RoofSeal to the surface.

SPECIFICATIONS:
Adhesion: > 9 lbs per inch of width
Elongation: >500%
Tensile Strength: 4500 +/- 500 PSI
Application Temperature with no Primer: 40F to >+150F
Application Temp. with Optional EternaPrime: -25F to +40F
Operating Temperature: -70F to >+200F
Sag Temperature: >200F.
Low Temperature Flexibility: 1/2" radius at -30 degrees F
Pliability: No cracks in membrane
Shelf Life: Up to 5 years
Manufacturers Warranty: 10 Years

COMPOSITION:
Eternabond RoofSeal utilizes Eternabond's advanced MicroSealant technology. It features a 100% solids proprietary formulation of synthetic resins, thermoplastics and non-curing rubber (not butyl) and a built-in primer. The MicroSealant is bonded to a tough UV staple backing. The facing side of the MicroSealant is then covered by an easily removed plastic release liner.


Installation preparation took 2 hours to set up scaffold, 2 hours each side to clean off caulk smeared in some areas with putty knife, sand paper the area, wipe down with Acetone Wednesday, and Thursday. On Friday the correct Eternabond arrived at 2pm. The first side took 3 hours, wiping again with Acetone and wiping with a dry towel just before application of the Eternabond. Saturday the second side took 2 hours.

So to do the whole job in total it took me 11 hours, 16 hours with two of us doing the application. The job turned out very good, the first foot or two was the most difficult to get application routine down.

Best tool was the altered Popsicle stick. Pat, my wife, helped with the application by positioning the tape in the bottom of the gutter and pulling off the release liner while I followed with the Popsicle stick tool setting the tape at the bottom, then pressing the tape with my finger to the top " of the gutter, next working the tape over the caulked area with my finger and last pressing the remaining top part of the tape with two fingers. Followed by rolling the tape and going over the tape in the gutter to set it firmly in place.

I did the front cap and rear cap corners approx. 10" around the radius where it meets the "big" globs of caulk on the rear cap, after the sides

I am so glad I used eternabond it's a comforting thought now when it is raining knowing the eternabond is in place. And knowing we do not have to caulk the roof anymore.
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Old 09-30-2006, 02:52 AM   #5
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Yes it should go into the gutter to obtain a firm bond. I don't think goint to the bottom of the gutter and no further would cause you problems with drainage. The above reply is excellant. Good Miles
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Old 09-30-2006, 06:58 AM   #6
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I did it and loved it. I sealed my seam with it. I took it to an auto paint store and had it tinted to match my rv, it looks and works great. i covered the channel and all. No more leaks, no more annual maintenance.
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Old 09-30-2006, 08:31 AM   #7
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Ok...I expect to be flamed for my opinion, but here it is.

Why not caulk your roof using the correct caulk instead of having to put eternabond on it? I believe eternabond cheapens your motorhome, looks horrible, and will affect your resale value...

Its the easy way out instead of caulking it properly.

The used units at my dealer that have eternabond dont sell...
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Old 09-30-2006, 08:44 AM   #8
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I will probably drive the wheels off and not resale but the problem with caulking is, if you don't get around to caulking it, ae forget about it chances are the roof comes up and rain water gets in the walls. Due to all the heat my seem barely fits in the channel so the eternabond worked well for me. I haven't had a problem with it and it looks good painted the color of my RV.
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Old 09-30-2006, 02:00 PM   #9
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Ok...I expect to be flamed for my opinion, but here it is. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

FrontRangeRVer

No flaming required everyone is entitled to his or her own opinion.

Isn't it great to live in a time when we have so many choices and freedoms in this great country.

I too intend to use this motorhome until it has very little value left.

However I do think you are a closet Eternabond user, how else could you seal up your motorhome so it would float like that!
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Old 10-01-2006, 03:18 PM   #10
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can anoyone take a picture of the finished product of the eternabond?

thanks
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Old 10-01-2006, 08:35 PM   #11
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I ordered 2 - 50' 2" rolls. Cleaned the top edge with brake cleaner and an alcohol final rub. Tested a small strip on the cleaned area and it did not stick?? I thought this stuff stuck to anything that was as clean as I got my surface. Is there a secret to cleaning your roof and gutter?
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Old 10-01-2006, 11:50 PM   #12
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I had the same problem the first time I tried. If you have ever used a silicone based product on your coach it can be a problem. I finally used Simple Green and a clean cloth a couple of times and the tape sutck like a weld.
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Old 10-02-2006, 03:27 AM   #13
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by FrontRangeRVer:
Ok...I expect to be flamed for my opinion, but here it is. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I don't see any reason for one to flame you. You evidently have only seen Eternabond jobs that have been done by folks that try to hurry the job. If one takes their time and starts with the front and back seams that can't be seen from the ground they will learn quickly how best to apply the Eternabond to get a good looking finish job. Most jobs I have seen including my own, if you didn't know it had Eternabond on it you would never see it. As for your local dealer not being able to sell units with Eternabond on them, it may well be the dealer is the one that installed it. I have seen more poor install jobs by dealers than by the coach owners. If the white backed Eternabond is used on a full paint coach it will not look good. But I have seen full painted coaches with painted Eternabond that look great. Painting the Eternabond is another step and takes more time. One thought is even the worst looking job with Eternabond still gives better protection against water intrusion than all the caulk you can buy. Time and patience is the clue to a good looking long lasting job of Eternabond. The choice is the RV owners, either inspect and repair caulk once or twice a year or spend a little time, do a good job and not have a worry about water problems. You may have guessed by now I love the Eternabond.
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Old 10-02-2006, 04:31 AM   #14
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peter griffin

Check this irv2 photo link
Eternabond Photos
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Old 10-02-2006, 12:18 PM   #15
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Hi Scooter

I used the 2" tape and it worked real well. I have pictures posted under eternabond photos on this site. I stood the tape up in the gutter and pressed it from the bottom to the top right over the seam. I did remove the old calk first and cleaned the surface to get a good bond. I think the pictures show the process pretty well. A friend of mine has a suncruiser and I helped him do his last April and it turned out good too. If I can answer any questions e-mail me. I haven't been on this site for a while. Good luck, Jim
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Old 10-03-2006, 02:22 PM   #16
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nice photos! How long before you noticed the seam fealing on a new coach?
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Old 10-03-2006, 02:43 PM   #17
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This is a great post! I do not own a Winnebago, but I did install this product on my Gulf Stream Sun Voyager and the results are definitely as advertised by the manufacture. I had a very serious leak over the drivers seat and my dealer charged me almost $800 for a re-caulk that failed within 9-months and left me high and dry after the second failure. I personally installed this product and after almost 2-years my "entire" coach has not sustained another water leak. I took my time and the results looks like factory quality. In my opinion this product should enhance the resale valve, not decrease it. This is my story and I am sticking to it.
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Old 10-03-2006, 08:00 PM   #18
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by peter griffin:
nice photos! How long before you noticed the seam fealing on a new coach? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

My first roof to sidewall seam repair (about 2 inches over the bedroom window on the passenger side) came after my first inpsection at 6 months after purchase, a year after the coach was built in 9/04.

The second repair (12 inches at the very rear on the passenger side and a 2 inches into the rear cap) was required at 20 months after manufacturer.

My coach is in covered storage when not in use and has 8200 miles.
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Old 10-04-2006, 03:15 AM   #19
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I agree with RVCrazy about this product. It is a one time deal and you never have to worry about re-calking. I first hear about it on this site over a year ago and when I inspected the seams on my coach I found the calk was not holding up very well. I didn't have any water leaks but that seam is a weak spot for sure.
Like RV said, if you take your time you can do a nice looking job and you neve have to pay big bucks to have a dealer re-calk every year or so.
The white vinal finish cleans up real easy too. I found a product at "The Dollar Store" called L.A. Awsome that will clean the excess glue off the tape and works great on black streaks.
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