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Old 06-29-2014, 10:28 AM   #1
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Erratic dash air blower

I am kind of re-posting this. I tacked it on the back of another thread and received only one reply. I guess that the thread got stale.

When driving along on a hot day with 'maxair' and the blower on 'high', the blower will sometime slow noticeably for a while and then speed up beyond its normal high speed.

In the other thread (no dash air) was posted a nice wiring diagram. The circuit looks simple enough. There is the switch, the high speed relay and the motor. The resistor should be bypassed by the relay being in high speed mode.

I did check to make sure that the air was not going to the defroster which would indicate a vacuum problem.

I am trying to figure out how to pin this down. It has only happened after driving for a while and at about 60 mph.

I am looking for way to diagnose this.
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Old 06-29-2014, 10:52 AM   #2
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When on max air the system is in recirculation mode( taking it's air from inside the coach) usually an intake near the passengers feet. The speed change you describe can still be a vacuum problem. If the vacuum drops and the recirculation door starts to open and allow outside airflow through the system, there would be a " ram air " effect, that could easily vary the blower fan speed, slowing as the door opens partially, then speeding up. The vacuum loss may not be enough for the system to go to full default mode. I'd be tempted to add a second vacuum reservoir , you can pick one up at an auto wrecker, and " T " it into the current lines.
JMHO: I don't think there is an electrical problem. Beyond a visual check of all connections for possible corrosion or heat damage, not too much to do.
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Old 07-09-2014, 11:25 AM   #3
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After checking further, it is a vacuum problem. When I first tried to diagnose it, I stood up and reached for the defroster and found no air. The problem was that I let up on the gas and by the time I reached the defroster, the air was coming from the dash vents. I tried again and left the cruise control on and the air was coming from the defroster.

OK, I know what to do now.

Thanks
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Old 07-09-2014, 06:48 PM   #4
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I have a 2005 Itasca Meridian and just ordered the vacuum manifold for my ac/heater control through Lazydays Tampa. My cost for the manifold is $40.

I went to cut off the end of the max air control actuator line and clean the tube and it just started crumbling in the rag I was using. Just too deteriorated after nine years.
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Old 07-09-2014, 09:39 PM   #5
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I have a 2005 Itasca Meridian and just ordered the vacuum manifold for my ac/heater control through Lazydays Tampa. My cost for the manifold is $40.

I went to cut off the end of the max air control actuator line and clean the tube and it just started crumbling in the rag I was using. Just too deteriorated after nine years.
Where is the max air control actuator located /picture would help also.
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Old 07-10-2014, 04:19 AM   #6
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Where is the max air control actuator located /picture would help also.
Don't believe that will help you as the 35U is a gas chassis and quite different than the diesel chassis.

Do you have a Workhorse or Ford chassis on your 35U? On the Ford there is a vacuum reservoir under the hood (round black plastic ball) located above that sometimes get a vacuum line disconnected from it and will cause this problem. Mine is doing this now and I checked the reservoir first and its still connected. It has now progressed to the point that I don't have enough vacuum in the dash to switch it from defrost. The line from the dash control has a check valve in it and from there the path gets a bit hard to trace as it weaves its way through the dash into the hood area and back through to the doghouse area and engine.
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Old 07-10-2014, 06:57 AM   #7
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Download your 2001 WFG35U (IPB) illustrated parts breakdown, go to page 182 and look at item #16. This is your max air actuator. Lazydays said my price is $65.00 and I'm waiting for mine at this time.

Looking at your IPB it looks like they just used standard automotive vacuum line, so, I recommend you go to your local auto parts house and replace all your hoses and "T's".

By the way, both coaches look like they use the same assembly for this job.

Good. Luck.
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Old 07-10-2014, 07:03 AM   #8
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PS. Passenger side of coach. To get to it I squirmed up from below (front of coach elevated on blocks) behind the front cap. It's held in place by two nuts. The studs are part of the actuator and the arm is held in place by a spring clip. It was at the very end of my reach.

Have fun, but you can do it.
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Old 07-10-2014, 09:49 AM   #9
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Don't believe that will help you as the 35U is a gas chassis and quite different than the diesel chassis.

Do you have a Workhorse or Ford chassis on your 35U? On the Ford there is a vacuum reservoir under the hood (round black plastic ball) located above that sometimes get a vacuum line disconnected from it and will cause this problem. Mine is doing this now and I checked the reservoir first and its still connected. It has now progressed to the point that I don't have enough vacuum in the dash to switch it from defrost. The line from the dash control has a check valve in it and from there the path gets a bit hard to trace as it weaves its way through the dash into the hood area and back through to the doghouse area and engine.
I have a 2002 WFG32B and when i put the a/c on max after a minute or so the air stops from the vents.Dont know if it is freezing up or has a flap problem.Any help in diagnoses would be appeciated.By the way we live in texas and at the moment it is 95 deg.
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Old 07-10-2014, 09:55 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by bonfield View Post
I have a 2002 WFG32B and when i put the a/c on max after a minute or so the air stops from the vents.Dont know if it is freezing up or has a flap problem.Any help in diagnoses would be appeciated.By the way we live in texas and at the moment it is 95 deg.
Have you checked to see if the air is coming from the defroster? Is so, your problem is similar to mine; e.g. vacuum leak.
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