Epoxy mounted metal brackets falling off

[Tpflyer]

Well the poor bonding issues continue. Both brackets that hold rubber door stops came loose on my Tour 42AD front Generator door (basically the front of the coach). It seems the glue stuck real well to the fiberglass but not the black painted bracket. I cleaned everything with isopropyl alcohol and glued them back on with JB Weld. So far so good.

[bobmac]

You might want to consider using 3M 5200 Adhesive/Sealant widely used in the marine industry. It is advertised as a "permanent" adhesive and has held every thing that I have used it on. Comes in tubes like silicone and is likely best found in marine stores. Costs about $10 a tube and takes some time - a few days - to cure completely but there is a faster curing version available. I don't know of anyone who has been disappointed using it except those that have later tried to remove it!

[Journey39n]

Since my 2010 Journey was new, I always thought the latches that held the generator door (access panel) were a little loose, and didn't really hold the door in tight.
Last time at the dealer a month ago, I innocently thought, RV dealer, please adjust my generator door, it seems loose. Should just take a few minutes to adjust the stops and latches.
Oops, two hours of labor, and a $60 tube of epoxy later, they had re-glued one of the two latches, and 3 of the 4 stops for that door. Seems they would adjust one, and it would come loose, adjust another and it fell off, etc.. Just lucky I guess, that none had fallen off, while driving on rough roads.
Other mounting points I could see for the front cap seemed solid, but that was a wake-up call to check all of them.

[Tpflyer]

I found mine by opening the generator door and noticing it was rubbing on the coach. I figured I would adjust the stop out so it would stop rubbing. As soon as I touched the bracket it practically came off in my hand. I was at a campground in Lancaster PA so I went to Lowes and bought a tube of JB Weld and glued it back on. I left the door open overnight to give the glue a chance to set up. Adjusted the stop and we finished our trip. When I got home I wanted to check it to make sure it was still securely fastened because I had never used JB Weld before and it was however when I checked to stop on the other side low and behold it had come loose. Same repair routine. So far both are holding after making the adjustments to prevent further contact. Touched up the paint where it was rubbing and all is good once again.

[doorguy]

I have had the front gen. access cover brackets come loose, the headlight brackets come loose(from the epoxy). I used JB Weld and clamped or forced pressure on the parts till it hardened. So far, so good. DO NOT drip any of the JB Weld on your clothes like I did and leaned up against the front cap. Didn't notice it till it dried and impossible to remove, so had front cap repainted. Brackets still holding and that was in 2010

[Gary CA]

I'm wondering is any one from Forest City IOWA reads this great forum. Customer input should be invalueable. An existing problem discussed by many would seem to be a flag and promote discussion to find an easy fix in the prep and assembly areas. Sorry to hear about the continued expoy issue with your newer RV.

[winnie32v]

We purchased our 2001 Winnie Adventurer in Feb. this year.
While checking things out under the hood, I found both the left & right brackets that were attached to the fiberglass front clip were detached, just 'sitting' there, loose.
After using a mirror & light and also getting my head in as far as I could to see, I realized that the bracket had come off of the epoxy.
So, I knew that I needed something that would flow through the bracket holes & around the bracket.
I got my tube of Liquid Nails and a narrow putty knife. I put an 'excess' on the bracket face and pushed it into place. Seemed like just the right consistency and this stuff will adhere to just about anything.
The glue oozed out of the holes and around the bracket face.
Next day....solid attachment and no more loose bracket.
I will be heading south soon and will be inspecting these brackets to ensure that the fix was holding.

[mpasso]

Terry J thanks for the post. I also have a 2011 Vista 35F and after reading your post went out to check the brackets and sure enough the left upper hood bumper bracket was missing. I thought it was gone for good but after careful inspection found it wedged in the frame. So glad it didn't happen while driving down the road. Makes me wonder how many other Vista owners may not yet realize this could be an issue. Will definitely report it to Winnebago but hoping they have a stronger adhesive to use.

[TerryJ]

mpasso, Winnebago had the dealer fix it out of warranty and the first trip this summer it fell off again plus I discovered that they cracked the gelcoat somehow when they fixed it. I ended up using JB Weld on it and so far it's holding. I also tied a string around both of them so I don't lose them on the road. You might also check the small compartment on the drivers side behind the front tire. THAT is where a lot of relays and breakers are and mine was not sealed underneath and had 2 inches of water in it. It was the source of quite a bit of electrical problems. The dealer "fixed" it and the next trip it had more water in it. I finally did it myself with commercial rubberized undercoating and silicone caulk. Also make sure that the slit in the plastic wire cover is facing down so water doesn't collect in it. I have had so many problems with this MH that I'm just about ready to sell it and take the loss.

[AFChap]

My engine access door has been re-glued twice, and I put a bolt through the bottom corner of the driver side front fender right behind the tire after the double sided tape came loose and the fiberglass was flapping in the breeze. But NOW I have a headlight totally loose and flopping and a fog light that is beginning to come loose. I put a wire around the fog light last year to keep it from totally falling off but so far it it just slightly loose.There is no room behind the front cap to work it the headlight. For now here is my new headlight bracket ...I managed to get one arm in there to attach the bungee cord.

Has anyone re-attached headlights? ...there is a HUGE amount of glue on the fiberglass, and the metal brackets both top and bottom have come off the glue. Can they simply be re-glued to the original glue?

[Duner]

Originally Posted by AFChap

Has anyone re-attached headlights? ...there is a HUGE amount of glue on the fiberglass, and the metal brackets both top and bottom have come off the glue. Can they simply be re-glued to the original glue?

I would say yes Paul.... if you can take off the metal bracket and hit with a grinder or some coarse or even medium sandpaper so you get down to the raw and roughen bare metal. Oh yes, and rough up the epoxy side too.

Some of mine came off the 1st year and my Winnie dealer applied fiberglass right over the bracket....those were the front hood brackets on the door side and those held well for 7 yrs now.

But on the body side, they came off later and out of warranty. I re-epoxied (3M two-part) those myself and glued to the bare metal. They have stayed attached now for over 5-6 yrs.

Good luck,
Bill

[YC1]

Originally Posted by fairview

I'm in the process of reattaching my front grill to the fiberglass with epoxy. Any recommendations? I-40 in Arkansas shook it loose and actually broke spot welds on the grill. I still need to glue the aluminum bar back to the fiberglass.

Structural Adhesive from Aircraft Spruce. Sand the aluminum and use some alcohol to clean it. Use gloves so you don't transfer oils. Drill some small holes as one person suggested if possible. You can use some dabs of 5 minute epoxy to hold parts while the structural adhesive cures. The landing hear on my airplane were held on with that stuff. You can add a layer of glass over it using the adhesive if you want some added insurance. Be sure any surfaces are freshly cleaned. Regular fiberglass resin would probably work but I would layer on some glass because the resin has little strength by itself.

[FIRE UP]

Gents,
Been keeping an eye on this thread. As of yet, the only issue I've had with our '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD is, the fender on the drivers side, right behind the tire came loose due to the double face tape that the factory used to keep it attached, came loose for about 8-10" or so. I pried the fender out some so I could swab in some lacquer thinner for cleaning the previous glue residue off and then, I used some alcohol for surface prep and cleaning.

I then got the "Gorilla Glue". It says it will work for that application. Well, since it's not structural and, no real strain is on those parts, I thought I'd give it a whirl. I placed some in the gap, squeezed it together and clamped it for about 8 hours. That was about 10 months ago and I just checked it the other day and I think I'd have to break the pieces of the fender to try and get that joint apart. So far, so good. Don't think I'd use it on structural pieces like headlight brackets, just yet. I'd most likely use a two part epoxy or, I'd glass it with layers of glass mat and resin.
Scott

[mpasso]

JB weld is what I was thinking and the string is a great tip. I've also had the same problem with water build up in the relay/breaker compartment. The first month after our purchase had a host of electrical problems so removed the panel to trouble shoot and saw 2 inches of water. Took it to the dealer who drilled a hole in the bottom of the compartment and replaced the multi pin connector because all the connections had corroded causing the electrical problems. Within a month it filled with water again so took it to a different dealer (recommended by Winnie) who said it's supposed to be an air tight compartment, they filled the hole, said they found the water leak and fixed it. Unfortunately it filled with water again and we had electrical problems (were in Canada at the time) so took it to a dealer there and they drilled another hole in the bottom of the compartment. Now it's rusting out with corrosion because of all the water that's been in there and I still think it should be an airtight compartment. Winnie is aware of the problem but other than recommending a dealer doesn't seem very interested. I know water leaks are a difficult thing to find and the folks in Canada said in their experience the water buildup is actually from condensation in that compartment and they've seen quite a bit of it in the Winnie's. The first year our MH was in the shop 6 months for all the problems. Not what I expected and quite disappointed. I expect problems when owning a MH but not the first year. All the electrical problems have been very concerning. Also have had multiple problems with the auto levelors, one of the levelors started going down while driving down the road (this happened three times) and hoping the last replacement does the trick. Also have a water leak in the shower and every time we take it in the dealer they don't see it so won't do anything. The ATS has had to be replaced twice for failure. Considering unloading this rig but enjoying the travels, really like the floor plan, bath and 1/2 feature, and plan to go full time in the next two years so will trade in/up.

[TerryJ]

It sounds like our motorhomes were built on the same day by the same crew. Shortly after water was found in the electrical compartment and the dealer supposedly replaced all the relays etc. I went to the Pa. State WIT rally and when I tried to use my levelers,nothing happened. Found MORE water in the compartment and back to my dealer I went. The motor for the levelers was bad. I figured that in a year and a half that motor had run a total of probably an hour. Cost to replace motor: about 600.00 parts & labor. Took the motor to a electric motor shop and they rebuilt it for 84.00. I still think the water had something to do with it. I know this thread I started is about brackets falling off but it seems to be pointing to the fact that Winnebago, and my dealer, doesn't give a damn about fixing long term and widespread problems of any kind. Sucks for us I guess. I'm going to start another thread about that. Look for it on here.

[greenhorn1]

Newby here-- in the process of purchasing an 04 journey 32t.
I have used Sonneborn NP1 for years.
It is:
flexible, strong, comes in a few different colors, oiland gas resistant, 1 part and comes in a 10 oz caulk tube or 20oz sausage ( requires special gun)
Purchase at construction supply houses
jmho
greenhorn1

greenhorn1

[TerryJ]

Newby, thanks for the tip on the adhesive. I'll try to find some to keep in my Vista. I 'm sure it will come in handy in the near future. My tip to you would be to check the condition of the brackets on your Journey. Winnebago, as you can tell by this thread, doesn't have a very good record in that area. If you study the entire owners forum you will also find that their track record in many other areas is not very good. You will also find a lot of invaluable information and help that will save you a lot of time and money sooner or later.

[greenhorn1]

TerryJ
Thanks, I am reading thru the forum- gathering information

greenhorn1