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Old 12-29-2013, 01:16 PM   #21
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I adjusted the door latch yesterday according to the instructions, it seems to work better now. I hope this solves the problem of the outside door handle not opening the door.
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Old 01-12-2014, 08:30 AM   #22
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found this older thread and having the same issues, the threaded shaft the nut is attached to is loosey goosey on mine, does not seem normal. Do they have a little slop to them or should the shaft be tight? I am going to look for a socket today to try the adjustment.

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Old 01-12-2014, 08:58 AM   #23
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Back near the beginning of this thread there are instructions on how to adjust the nut.

Since I posted on 12-29 the door latch has been a frequent problem. On my camper the lever on the inside of the outside handle sometimes slides under the plate it's supposed to push against to open the door. This makes the inside handle hard to open and also prevents the outside handle from opening the door.
I'm now in the market for a new inside and outside handle assembly.
Thank God we have a drivers door, I've used it allot lately.
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Old 01-12-2014, 12:23 PM   #24
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bought the socket, adjusted the nut and still the outside handle will not work. Took everything apart and looks to me like the mechanism is just worn out, too much slop in the handle and rods. I'm going shopping for a new one too.
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Old 03-24-2015, 02:01 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by traveler of california View Post
Art,

I called Trimark and they faxed the "fix". Tried it but it didn't work for me. I'm trying to get into a dealer while I'm on the road.

The fix is to:

Get a 7/16" thin walled deep socket make sure the screws on the inside plate are tight and then

1. Close the rotor (the latch which closes around the post when locked).

2. Lock the handle from the inside (using the lower manual locking lever).

3. While pulling up on the inside handle, manually (no power) turn the nut clockwise until the latch (rotor) releases.

4. Manually turn the nut counterclockwise 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 turns.

5. Unlock the door and open the door from the inside handle. The latch should release before the inside handle reaches maximum travel.

Hope this helps you. Finding the thin walled socket was difficult and I was unable to find one at Sears, Home Depot, Lowes, and 2-3 auto part stores.

Nick
Thank you so much for this detailed FYI from Trimark I just used this procedure on my 06 Winnebago Adventurer 35A and it worked perfectly to resolve this lock out problem we've been struggling with for months. Woohoo!
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Old 03-26-2015, 03:47 PM   #26
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Mission impossible door latch or lock?

I don't know if this is the problem we have but had the situation where we would go out the door and close it on our 15 vista and it would lock behind us. It started doing it repeatedly. Thank goodness we then always took a extra set of keys with us after we left the 2nd time. The factory replaced the mechanism and this situation still does it. So I'll print this out and double ck it this weekend. Yes the fist time we had accidently left a window unlocked only to be a blessing in disguise since we don't have the driver's door.
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Old 03-26-2015, 05:55 PM   #27
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If it is a tri-mark use a mehanic's seal pic to deprss the plunger, (From outside) then you can open the door, Dissassemle the latch and have a fabricator carve you anew striker bolt out of STEEL instad off the cheap (Term deleted by poster) Tri-Mark used.
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Old 03-28-2015, 09:59 AM   #28
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Had to break a window

Our door locked us out which forced us to break a window to get in. Both sets were inside and every access was locked. It was late evening on a week end. Engine running as we were just arriving home after a long trip. We felt no choice. Even with insurance we had a 1500.00 repair bill and a 200.00 copay.
We've fixed it as you saw in my last thread and learned to never lock the drivers door or have keys outside the rig at all times. Lots of lessons learned including what window to never break for a future similar scenario. (The sliding passenger glass in the trio window across from the driver). It requires all three windows to replace and insert the one that's broken. Sad...very sad at the time. It took 2.5 months from claim to completion.
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Old 07-21-2015, 07:16 AM   #29
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Question Entry Door Lock - Help!

I've got a problem. Entry door lock has failed with the door fully closed. We are presently having to get in and out through the driver's door. From outside when you pull the handle, it seems to be disconnected from the mechanism; handle comes toward me, but latch doesn't move. From inside, handle will not move; something is holding it in position so you cannot lift it. Naturally, the latch does not retract.

So I don't have access to the edge of the door. There are 3 torx screws in the cover plate on the inside of the door, which I have not removed yet, but it looks like the plate won't be removable because the red lever for the dead bolt and the main handle can't be removed.

Help! Does anyone have any clue how I can get this fixed? We are presently in an RV park in Philadelphia, PA.
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Old 07-21-2015, 07:26 AM   #30
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Remove the screws and it will come out a bit. Once you get the door open near the latch you will see a black plug or hole if the plug is not there. That nut is how you adjust the latch. Adjust it and test it with door open. Use your hand to push up the latch and test the handle by pulling up. Once it feel right close the door for final adjustment.


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Old 07-21-2015, 08:31 AM   #31
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Thumbs up Entry Door Lock removed

Thank you, Johndale. Removing the 3 screws on the inside panel did allow me to get the door unlatched & open. I disassembled the entire assembly, inside and outside. I tightened the adjusting nut about 2 turns and reassembled. For the time being it is now working, but it seems right on the edge of failing again, so I am keeping my fingers crossed until I can get replacement parts. The inside handle shaft seems a bit wobbly and you have to be careful about the shaft alignment as you lift the handle. From outside, it seems like the finger that the flipper handle moves just barely engages the notch in the latch and might slip over the latch the next time it is used.

Does anyone have a handle (ha ha) on a replacement for this door handle assembly?
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Old 07-22-2015, 06:12 PM   #32
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I had the same problem and finally took the lock mechanism apart. Inside & outside pieces. Trimark sent me a fax showing the inner.Looking at it I saw that it was just not aligning perfectly. So I carefully adjusted the outside half with the inside half. Using the one screw in the middle then add the latch adjustment ( using a harbor freight 1/4" drive 7/32" deep socket ) it unlocked and locked perfectly afterwards. Added the other two screws. The adjusting nut ended up not being cranked far in much to my surprise
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Old 07-22-2015, 11:42 PM   #33
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I had a similar problem with our Itasca. The finger on the outside door latch was not engaging the mechanism properly due to wear. I ordered the latch parts from PPL but the dead bolt was the wrong length. So I returned it and bought the parts from a Winnebago supplier. Winny uses a longer dead bolt. Same model number but different dead bolts.
Go back to the beginning of the thread and read the adjusting procedure. You may need new inner and outer laughed like I did.
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Old 07-23-2015, 06:27 AM   #34
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Question Entry Door Lock Working for now

Thanks to all for the supportive information. As I said, my old parts are working for now, and I will go back to the earlier nut adjustment advice. But as a full-timer who plans to stay with this coach for a long time, I am going to get and install new parts, meaning the inside handle assembly and the outside paddle latch assembly for a complete parts replacement.

Can anyone answer a few questions?

1. If I order from a Winnebago/Itasca dealer, will I get inner and outer assembly's identical to my now defective OEM parts with a straight inside handle? Or will I get an updated version of the door lock that can be substituted in my existing door?

2. Has anyone used the Trimark 030-0900, with the "curvy" inside handle as a replacement? Is it a clean change-out?

3. Has anyone ordered a 17217-02 exterior paddle latch assembly plus a 21397-01 interior door handle assembly (which seem to equal the 030-0900)? If I order these two parts online, will these give me a clean install and work with the existing striker bolt in the jamb?

Thanks to anyone who has previously done this change-out and can share their experience. I love IRV2!
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Old 07-28-2015, 02:10 AM   #35
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Arrow A door lock replacement - the TriMark 030-0900

Nobody having answered, I plunged ahead and would like to share what I’ve learned so far. I know another IRV2 reader out there will someday have a problem with this lock.

First off, you can see my coach description below, but I know a lot of Winnies have the same entry door lock. The Fleetwood Tioga parked next to us (squeezed in close here in Philadelphia) has the same inside and outside parts as us. It’s my belief from the TriMark website that there are several variations of this lock set that look basically alike on the outside and inside. Attached pictures show both sides of my door.

Answers to my 3 questions in prior post above:
1. Still don't know.
2. On my RV there is a clean change-out: a TriMark 030-0900 series with an inside plate (21396-01) and an outside paddle (17220-07).
3. These part nos. apparently belong to some other configuration of the 030-0900, not mine.

I had to take my door handle assembly apart a second time to get some important information. On this reassembly I applied some lube (a little oil here, a little grease there) to moving parts, and played with the whole assembly’s placement within the cutout. Locks and main latch are working better than ever now. Maybe I don’t need replacement lock parts at all!

As an aside, don’t get me started on lubricants. If there is ever an RV part of any kind that accepts only one lubricant (or mustn’t be lubed at all) and everybody agrees what it is, get the smelling salts, ‘cause I will have fainted dead away!

Getting back to topic, I don’t trust my lock set now; I think some ten-year-old parts are worn, though not broken yet, and after reading so many horror stories, I am going ahead and getting new parts . . . Justin Case.
If your lock set fails and you cannot get the door unlocked, pray that you are inside the RV. Removing the three screws from the inside plate (Torx T15 on mine) will likely allow you to release the rotator/latch and get the door open for further analysis. If you have to break something to get in your RV or desire to try breaking into the lock set from the outside, see other posts for that . Pull the red rubber cover off the lock/unlock peg below the main handle. Both the red deadbolt lever and the main handle come off with the inside plate—they are not held on their shafts with setscrews. Once you get the door open, you will find that the inside plate/handle assembly will rotate to uncover the door cutout and grant access to inside parts, but it will still be attached to the latch bolt, which is used for adjustment. The outside paddle latch, having been released from the three screws inside, can now be wiggled free of the cutout and removed from the door by moving it in a direction so as to withdraw the deadbolt from its channel within the door.

While you have everything apart, you need to find a 5-digit number on the inside of the inside plate/handle assembly. I found it stamped on the head of the pin that attaches the latch plate to the latch bolt. In little tiny characters it said “17951.” Also, while the lock is disassembled, you might want to measure the thickness of your door. I also measured the length of my deadbolt, as they can be different lengths in different RV installations. While in info gathering mode, if you have your original TriMark keys, you should also jot down the code stamped on the original door lock key and the dead bolt key.

One comment about the adjustment procedure generously furnished by Nick, above: between steps 4 and 5 you need to close the rotor again if you still have the door open. Or maybe that is obvious after you’ve had your lock apart a couple of times.

Next, I called TriMark at their main 800 number. Have pencil and paper ready because the menu will give you a different number to call for technical help and replacement parts. At the tech number, on answer, a nice lady named Ann used the info I had gathered to tell me that they can supply the matching 030-0900 series lock set with the correct cylinders to match my existing keys! And their prices are very reasonable from what I learned surfing similar parts on the internet. If you are wondering, this “new” lock has a different inside handle than the old one pictured—it is kind of curvy and has no rubber grip on it.

So soon I’ll have a whole new inside plate and handle, outside paddle latch, gasket, and cylinders in my spares box. BTW, is Justin still around here somewhere?
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Old 07-28-2015, 10:10 AM   #36
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I'm sorry I didn't see your follow-up question.
When I replaced the inside handle it came with the curved handle and it has worked fine. The lever for the deadbolt is also a different shape but works good as well.
I had a local locksmith remove the deadbolt and insert it in the new lock plate so I didn't have to remake keys.
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Old 07-28-2015, 10:13 AM   #37
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I have pictures of the old and new parts on my computer and I'll post them later today. When I ordered my parts from Winnebago I also bought the parts that actually l latch the door, rotor etc but I didn't replace them.
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Old 07-03-2018, 09:33 PM   #38
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what I had to do to my door latch was take screws out then it will come almost apart pull outside handle out about an inch and I used vice grips and bent up lever about a 1/4 inch or less . this lever is the one you see move when you operate the outside door handle. you are better off than I was I had to climb thru a window. Tried the adjusting thing and it didn't do anything for mine
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Old 07-05-2018, 10:09 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobpie View Post
Hey, what window do you all keep unlocked? Just in case, you know. I just go in through the drivers side door, rather than climb through a window.

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Old 03-10-2019, 10:53 AM   #40
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Who says 13 year old threads shouldn't be used? I followed the steps in post #9 from 2006 and now my door latch works! Although I was able to use a standard 1/4" drive socket, not deep, not thin wall.
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