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Old 11-10-2008, 11:48 AM   #1
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We have an Itasca Spirt Class C. The entry door squeaks going down the road, have adjusted the latch alot, but hasn't solved the problem. Is good for awhile then it squeaks again. Any ideas on how to fix it?
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Old 11-10-2008, 11:48 AM   #2
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We have an Itasca Spirt Class C. The entry door squeaks going down the road, have adjusted the latch alot, but hasn't solved the problem. Is good for awhile then it squeaks again. Any ideas on how to fix it?
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Old 11-10-2008, 12:59 PM   #3
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Put a couple of wraps of electrical tape around the latch post. That stops mine and I replace the tape every 200 openings or so when it starts squeaking again.
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Old 11-10-2008, 02:56 PM   #4
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I keep hoping someone will come up with a permanent solution for this problem. I have a 2004 Meridian and have always had this squeak, unless I keep the post wrapped with fresh electrical tape. It took me several hundred miles of driving with this terrible squeak before I could isolated the source of the noise. When I commented on this 2 years ago while at Forest City, all they did was replace the post with a teflon coated post. This lasted a little bit longer than the tape,but not much longer. I wonder if other manufacturers use this sorry arrangement for a door latch.
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Old 11-10-2008, 03:11 PM   #5
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I know that this may not be a solution that all will like but what I make a habit of doing after checking the tire pressure is to give the post a squirt of WD 40. This keeps the door quiet until the next time I check the tires.

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Old 11-10-2008, 03:12 PM   #6
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This is interesting because my 04 Meridian has entry door squeaks also. My solution is to marinate the door seals with silicone. That seems to stop the squeaking for six months or so. It is curious as to why taping the door latch peg also does the same thing. I suspect that it puts more pressure on the door seals and eliminates the squeaking.
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Old 11-13-2008, 05:51 AM   #7
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Thanks all for the advise will give the tape a try.
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Old 11-13-2008, 08:29 AM   #8
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Keep the can of silicone handy lub door seal about every mo seems to keep the squeeek away.
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Old 11-13-2008, 08:56 AM   #9
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This is a problem? So common I thought it was a feature, perhaps to keep the driver awake.
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Old 11-13-2008, 10:27 AM   #10
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The electrical tape gives the latch something besides the metal post to rub on as the door works and shifts as the coach rolls and pitches with the road. Eventually the latch rubs through the tape and reaches the post again, ergo the squeaking noise is back again. Which means a new wrapping of the tape again.
I tried lowering the post so the latch didn't rub on the top of the post but unfortunately its adjusted as low as it will go. When I asked the tech at Forest City if the door could be adjusted upward, since it seems to have settled down some causing this problem, he said only by removing the door and changing the hinges. On several cars I've had trouble with doors not fitting right I've seen body shop personel put a hammer handle in the open door right at the hinge and push the door against the hammer handle thus springing the hinge just enough to make the door fit right. Thought the Winny tech would have a little trick like this but maybe it wouldn't work on this type door. Guess I will just keep the roll of electrical type by the door and remember to change it every couple weeks (depending on how many miles are driven and how rough the road is).
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Old 11-13-2008, 02:47 PM   #11
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">hdvectra
"Winnebago Coach Forum Member"

Posted November 13, 2008 12:56 PM Hide Post
This is a problem? So common I thought it was a feature, perhaps to keep the driver awake.

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2002 MDX Toad </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Best response yet to the solution. Made my day
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Old 11-13-2008, 02:55 PM   #12
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Adjusting the entry door:
Adjusting the entry door.
I hope this link works.
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Old 11-19-2008, 06:35 AM   #13
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ChasA -- That link is helpful for those who have a door that isn't front entry. One of the first things the article says is that it isn't for front entry doors. boohoo Leaves me and my Meridian out in the cold and squeeky to boot!
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Old 11-19-2008, 06:51 AM   #14
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Winnebago has a teflon coated striker bolt that replaces the old metal striker bolt that takes care of the squeeking problems. (I believe they started using these in 2005)
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Old 11-19-2008, 08:40 AM   #15
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This was a problem on my rig from day one. I used every solution I could find from talc to engine oil to stuffing between screen and door. I bought the new Teflon-coated pin from Winne ($25). I examined installations on other manufacturers that use the same hardware.

The solution for me was to add another mounting washer under the pin to make it stick out from the door jamb a little farther. 3/16" was all that was needed.

If you look under the 'head' of the pin, you may find wear marks that indicate the latch on the door is rubbing on its side because the pin is too short.

I have not had a single squeak since this fix and the door closes easier too.

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Old 11-19-2008, 07:29 PM   #16
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Forest City furnished me the teflon pin for free 2 years ago and it didn't take long for the door latch to wear through the teflon. Will definitely try the extra spacer, but on mine it looks like the pin needs to be lowered about 1/16th inch so the latch won't rub on the top of the pin. But there's no room or space for the pin to move down, only up. Maybe I need to remove the pin and try to grind out the slot some so the pin can be lowered. But if the door sags any, things will be right back rubbing again.
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Old 11-20-2008, 04:11 AM   #17
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We also have the 'door squeak' feature. I will try the electrical tape fix, then maybe the extra mounting washer.

We also have an aditional 'feature' on our door. When the door is opened or closed and is almost at 90 degrees from the coach (almost fully opened), there is a loud 'thunk' noise and a bit of resistence as the door travels past this point in its swing. I have taken apart some of the door inards to determine the cause and attempt a fix. The noise is coming from the arm located on the door a bit higher than the center point between the lower and middle hinge. The arm does not seem to bind on anything around it, but I removed some metal from the hole in the door near the arm anyway. It seems to be the arm assy itself. Using lithium grease on all the arm moving parts has not helped. The bind and hence the noise appears to be related to how level the coach is, yet I cannot find a reason for that, unless the whole door assy is somehow twisted out of shape at times.

Would appreciate some thoughts on this.
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Old 11-20-2008, 05:20 PM   #18
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We have a 2000 Horizon 36LD that we bought about 2 years ago. For the first year, we had the same "thunk" you described when the door was opened over halfway. I tried the lubrication route and nothing would reduce or soften the noise. Eventually, the arm broke so we didn't have any choice but to replace it. The dealer said the new part ($12) was redesigned so the part number was changed. I installed the new part myself with no problem, but now our door will only open about 70 degrees, making it somewhat difficult to get in with our hands full of groceries or a clothesbasket. I didn't see any way to adjust the open limit so we have just lived with it, at least it isn't noisy anymore.
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Old 11-21-2008, 03:17 PM   #19
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By "entry door", are you referring to the door to the coach or the door to the cab? Thanks

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Old 11-21-2008, 04:00 PM   #20
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Martind4, I have the same "thunk" problem on my 36G. Where did you get the part? I tried contacting Atwood but they were no help.

The part that is broken in my door is a spring loaded snubber that limits outward door travel. When it gets over center it snaps against the frame of the door making the thunk sound. On the inside side of snubber there is nylon guide that has cracked and allows the slider rod to contact the door frame.
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