Disable leveling jack alarm? - Page 2

azpete · 02-02-2017, 10:13 AM

the alarm is there for safety reasons. some mfg install it, some dont. its their choice. its included in every kit. it can be muffled with foam rubber. or some other material, but i really dont recommend removing it.
when a jack moves down enough to set off an alarm, it only moves about one to two inches, according to size of the jack, the length of the hose, and the temp of the heat source. hwh has never has a case where the jack extended enough to strike the ground because of heat expansion. rewiring can, in some cases do that.
ive seen and replaced lots of bent jack cylinders because of driving off with the jacks down.
please make sure you dont wire it so the park brake doesnt supply the ground to activate the system. the alarm is tied to that same blue wire. in the end, its your coach. maybe a quieter alarm is the answer.

Charlie72704 · 02-02-2017, 10:17 AM

Just returned from my coach (in storage) to tackle this problem. I had a toggle switch in hand along with electricians tape to either toggle the noise maker off or wrap it with tape to quiet it some.

On close inspection, I noted that the alarm module (about two inches in diameter) has a rotating cover on it. This cover has a series of triangular holes in it. When I touched the alarm I discovered that this "cover" moves or rotates clockwise and counter clockwise.

I rotated the cover so that the triangular holes lined up to completely close the alarm speaker. Now the decibel level is dramatically quieter and is maybe a third of the volume it was before.

Oh, for the record my coach is a 2005 Newmar Northern Star. The jacks down alarm was about knee high on the left of the steering column and was affixed to the fire wall with two wood screws into a piece of plywood.

For me, problem solved.

dpinvidic · 02-02-2017, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Charlie72704

Just returned from my coach (in storage) to tackle this problem. I had a toggle switch in hand along with electricians tape to either toggle the noise maker off or wrap it with tape to quiet it some.

On close inspection, I noted that the alarm module (about two inches in diameter) has a rotating cover on it. This cover has a series of triangular holes in it. When I touched the alarm I discovered that this "cover" moves or rotates clockwise and counter clockwise.

I rotated the cover so that the triangular holes lined up to completely close the alarm speaker. Now the decibel level is dramatically quieter and is maybe a third of the volume it was before.

Oh, for the record my coach is a 2005 Newmar Northern Star. The jacks down alarm was about knee high on the left of the steering column and was affixed to the fire wall with two wood screws into a piece of plywood.

For me, problem solved.

Same way on my coach...I guess the alarm module comes from HWH.

Glad it is solved.

Dan

jerichorick · 02-03-2017, 05:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dpinvidic

Same way on my coach...I guess the alarm module comes from HWH.

Glad it is solved.

Dan

Not mine. The module is set to full volume with no mercy adjustment. I am hard of hearing and it was even too loud for me. The only thing I had handy, when I finally found the module and what I was dealing with, was the cotton balls. At least this took the edge off the alarm.

The points of safety here are good ones and well though through. I have had a jack drop a bit and was alerted by the alarm. Without the audio alert I would have never noticed the warning light on the dash because of being obscured by the steering wheel when I am driving. I am going to see about installing the latching relay this month and pull the cotton balls out. That idea just seems too Raoul Goldberg for me.

Happy trails,
Rick Y

azpete · 02-05-2017, 10:28 AM

good find charlie. the buzzer is adjustable.,
we supply the alarm to the manufacturers,and they decide whether to put in on or not. ive been to some builders, ,unnamed, and found a box full of alarms
we as hwh employees are not supposed to disable, remove or adjust the alarm.but you as the owner can.
back to that liability issue again.

youracman · 02-06-2017, 07:40 PM

Thank you all for the responses. Methinks harleyjt thinks "outside the box" as they say. (A stroke of genius regarding the application of a latching relay, IMHO.) I really couldn't see enough room anywhere under my Ford's dash to mount one though; so I went the simple toggle switch route.....like Jim HiTek. I guess if a latching relay were not direction-sensitive regarding mounting I could just "hang" one of the socket-mount types in there someplace with a couple of zip ties...........maybe. The guys with Class A's would have way more room someplace I'd wager.

I am going to attempt to attach a few pics of my simple installation process. Hopefully if you click on them they will enlarge and the annotation will be legible. I suspected that the red wire on the backside of the HWH control panel was the main 12 v power lead so (with jacks partially lowered and the alarm screeching away) I cut the lead into; and the silence was golden. So now when I throw the toggle switch I put in series with that red wire, the HWH is just plain "dead" ............... no squalling alarm and (unfortunately) not even a red light. So I can run my engine in peace whenever needed. I don't anticipate a problem cuz at 85, my coach doesn't budge from its "parked" space until I have reviewed my laminated check list (twice) ...... and EdInArk's advice about hanging a warning flag on the steering wheel (or maybe the shift lever?) for the jacks, etc is an excellent "belt and suspenders" approach (and I'm gonna do it).

Safe travels ..... with no bent jacks, y'all. :^)

Jim_HiTek · 02-07-2017, 10:46 AM

Great job, YourACMan, well done.

Think I'll follow your lead and add a switch to my '02 Winnie like I had in my '94 Bounder. I did a blog write up about doing it in my '94 Bounder, Power Gear Jacks. I cut the red lead going to the control box so it completely removes power from the control.

Added that switch back in '05 and never drove off with the jacks down, had a close call or two just after adding it before I taught myself to always flip it or check that the switch is ON when I pull into a RV park to level. Then when I start traveling again, it's on and beeping when I turn on the ignition. That reminds me to pull up the jacks. If it keeps beeping after they are pretty much up, flip the switch to silence the alarm and off I go. Having to use the switch at all told me that I needed to add ATF at my next stop.

I'm going to add your mod to my HWH panel soon, I have plenty of open panel space for it right near the control.

zman-az · 02-07-2017, 11:29 AM

I did the latching relay on my 2011 Vista 26. I used a temporary pushbutton switch and worked perfectly, resetting everytime. I also put some RTV on the buzzer to tone it down a few notches. No longer have that RV anymore, guessing the owner of my old RV is wonder what does this button do?

harleyjt · 02-07-2017, 01:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zman-az

I did the latching relay on my 2011 Vista 26. I used a temporary pushbutton switch and worked perfectly, resetting everytime. I also put some RTV on the buzzer to tone it down a few notches. No longer have that RV anymore, guessing the owner of my old RV is wonder what does this button do?

What relay or relays did you use? I found a relatively small double pole relay pretty inexpensive from Amazon.

jerichorick · 02-08-2017, 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by harleyjt

What relay or relays did you use? I found a relatively small double pole relay pretty inexpensive from Amazon.

Here is what I just finished designing. The parts are on order from Amazon. I am using a momentary contact normally open switch and a spdt relay.

Parts: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'll use Stack-on connectors to the component pins. Care must be used to id the lugs correctly when connecting thing up going this route.

Here is the diagram. Double click on it and use Ctrl+ to expand it. I did this on TinyCAD and it is my first attempt at using this program.

BFlinn181 · 02-08-2017, 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jerichorick

Here is what I just finished designing. The parts are on order from Amazon. I am using a momentary contact normally open switch and a spdt relay.

Parts: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'll use Stack-on connectors to the component pins. Care must be used to id the lugs correctly when connecting thing up going this route.

Here is the diagram. Double click on it and use Ctrl+ to expand it. I did this on TinyCAD and it is my first attempt at using this program.

The relay you have linked to on Amazon is NOT a latching relay. Your circuit will disconnect only as long as the button is held down. Using a latching relay like this one at Amazon would work. Since the circuit is only to break the power to the buzzer, you don't need a 30 amp relay.

jerichorick · 02-09-2017, 04:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BFlinn181

The relay you have linked to on Amazon is NOT a latching relay. Your circuit will disconnect only as long as the button is held down. Using a latching relay like this one at Amazon would work. Since the circuit is only to break the power to the buzzer, you don't need a 30 amp relay.

Bob, please look more closely at my circuit. I made a latching relay circuit with the momentary contact switch. As soon as the relay operates the alarm 12V is supplied to the coil. The alarm is silenced and the alarm activation signal is now holding the relay up. When the alarm signal is interrupted, operation of the ignition key/jacks down or jack retraction, the relay will fall off and the alarm is ready to blare again. The parts should be here Friday. Well see if I am correct after that.

I'll post the bench test results.

Rick Y

harleyjt · 02-09-2017, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jerichorick

Bob, please look more closely at my circuit. I made a latching relay circuit with the momentary contact switch. As soon as the relay operates the alarm 12V is supplied to the coil. The alarm is silenced and the alarm activation signal is now holding the relay up. When the alarm signal is interrupted, operation of the ignition key/jacks down or jack retraction, the relay will fall off and the alarm is ready to blare again. The parts should be here Friday. Well see if I am correct after that.

I'll post the bench test results.

Rick Y

I think you're right. The relay will be powering either the horn or the pull in coil. Let us know how it works. I came up with a design using a latching relay or a pair of standard relays. But your design looks like it should work. [emoji106]

jerichorick · 02-10-2017, 06:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by harleyjt

I think you're right. The relay will be powering either the horn or the pull in coil. Let us know how it works. I came up with a design using a latching relay or a pair of standard relays. But your design looks like it should work. [emoji106]

It would be nice to see your design also. There is always a betta way yea know!

harleyjt · 02-10-2017, 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jerichorick

It would be nice to see your design also. There is always a betta way yea know!

My design was much more involved using a latching DPDT relay or could use two SPDT relays. Jerichorick's design is much simpler and should work equally as well. I plan on using his design now. I like his design a lot better than mine. He's a much better electrician than I.

jt

jerichorick · 02-11-2017, 05:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by harleyjt

My design was much more involved using a latching DPDT relay or could use two SPDT relays. Jerichorick's design is much simpler and should work equally as well. I plan on using his design now. I like his design a lot better than mine. He's a much better electrician than I.

jt

Thanks for the compliment jt. I graduated from Wentworth Inst in 1966. Used my education a bit after that but not much. Finding that free CAD program the other day is what helped me the most. I remembered the nomenclature I was looking for and that got the drawing correct. The lines are simply logic. The component names were the hard part. lol

My parts are here but not in my hand yet. I am volunteering at a church camp in Alvin, TX. The office is closed. I hope to have time next week to put this together.

What I did build for the Air Force One break light indicator is a remote system. But, that topic is in another thread: Air Force One toad brake indicator light if anyone is interested. That, too, needs to be installed yet.

harleyjt · 02-17-2017, 01:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jerichorick

Thanks for the compliment jt. I graduated from Wentworth Inst in 1966. Used my education a bit after that but not much. Finding that free CAD program the other day is what helped me the most. I remembered the nomenclature I was looking for and that got the drawing correct. The lines are simply logic. The component names were the hard part. lol

My parts are here but not in my hand yet. I am volunteering at a church camp in Alvin, TX. The office is closed. I hope to have time next week to put this together.

What I did build for the Air Force One break light indicator is a remote system. But, that topic is in another thread: Air Force One toad brake indicator light if anyone is interested. That, too, needs to be installed yet.

Have you had a chance to proof test your circuit yet? Eagerly awaiting the results.
jt

jerichorick · 02-18-2017, 07:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by harleyjt

Have you had a chance to proof test your circuit yet? Eagerly awaiting the results.
jt

Been as busy as a one armed paper hanger as of late. Sorry for the delay. I hope to get to it this weekend but it is already getting very full. I'll let you know ASAP. Thanks for the nudge.

Rick Y

jerichorick · 03-02-2017, 06:08 PM

Sorry to all following this thread. As I stated earlier, I have been very busy. I finally got to build and test my alarm cutoff circuit today. I seemed to have my fair share of gremlins that invaded my work but I did succeed at accomplishing what we were hoping for.

As of now, when the ignition key is turned and the jacks are down, that loud obnoxious buzzing that is drawing blood from my ears can be silenced with a push of the momentary contact switch that I mounted on the dash. The Jacks Down warning light is unaffected. Turn the key back to off and then back to run and the noise is back until I punch the button again.

This is a great day for me.

I am having problems with my htc windows phone loading pictures to my pc. I will attempt to get them from the OneDrive.

I did it! The plastic bag is the schematic of the circuit. The relay is tie wrapped to the alarm case.

I hope the wait was worth it to you fine folk. Please post your results if you attempt this.

Happy trails,
Rick Y

CJ7365 · 03-02-2017, 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jerichorick

Sorry to all following this thread. As I stated earlier, I have been very busy. I finally got to build and test my alarm cutoff circuit today. I seemed to have my fair share of gremlins that invaded my work but I did succeed at accomplishing what we were hoping for.

As of now, when the ignition key is turned and the jacks are down, that loud obnoxious buzzing that is drawing blood from my ears can be silenced with a push of the momentary contact switch that I mounted on the dash. The Jacks Down warning light is unaffected. Turn the key back to off and then back to run and the noise is back until I punch the button again.

This is a great day for me.

I am having problems with my htc windows phone loading pictures to my pc. I will attempt to get them from the OneDrive.

I did it! The plastic bag is the schematic of the circuit. The relay is tie wrapped to the alarm case.

I hope the wait was worth it to you fine folk. Please post your results if you attempt this.

Happy trails,
Rick Y

Nice write up, really convenient that your dash pulls forward like that, easy on the back.