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Old 05-28-2008, 02:39 PM   #1
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Does anyone know how to remove the angled fixed window from atwood next to the drivers window and the windshield. I removed the frame (from the inside) but the sealant is really holding the window in. Do I need a heat gun or would you recommend sending it to a glass shop. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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Old 05-28-2008, 02:39 PM   #2
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Does anyone know how to remove the angled fixed window from atwood next to the drivers window and the windshield. I removed the frame (from the inside) but the sealant is really holding the window in. Do I need a heat gun or would you recommend sending it to a glass shop. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
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Old 05-29-2008, 03:39 AM   #3
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Peter Griffin: I just had mine replaced at the Winnie factory. Cost me $1500.00 just for the two glasses, Winnebago furnished the labor. The glasses I am talking about are the two angled dual panes on each side of the cockpit. I tried to get a local automotive glass shop to do them and they did not want to take it on. Their estimate was much higher than $1500.00. So it is a bit of a chore apparently. I still think ATWOOD should have to do a recall on these windows. Sorry I can't be more specific on the sealant.
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Old 05-29-2008, 04:32 AM   #4
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WOW tha is high. Flagg Rv said it would take one to two hours tops at $95.00 an hour. I will let you know the end result.

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Old 05-29-2008, 06:14 AM   #5
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Peter Griffin: I just checked the invoice from Winnebago: RH window cost to Winnebago $749.25, LH window cost to Winnebago $511.30. Since they did not charge labor, I can't give you the $$$$ on that. They typically charge $95.00 Per hour. My cost on the glass when I called ATWOOD, would have been $1500.00. (It is ridiculous). Please do let me know. Hope you get a better deal.
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Old 05-29-2008, 10:31 AM   #6
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I had my passenger side window done about 3 years ago at 700.00. It was done at my selling dealership. My times have changed. They used a plastic scraper and a lot of patience. That buttel rubber is tough.
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Old 05-30-2008, 08:54 AM   #7
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thanks for the info. I have the frame from the inside off. A just cant get the window out and I am afraid I will damage the fibergalss if I keep hitting it out. I also discover that the top window leaks and is dripping onto the bottom windows ledge and then onto the insulation (white foam board)that is between the walls.
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Old 05-31-2008, 05:21 AM   #8
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Suggest you call Customer Service at Winnebago and ask for the Shop Service Supervisor. They do this all the time and probably can help you with your job. There is enough expense involved in the replacement of these defective windows already.
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Old 05-31-2008, 07:41 AM   #9
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I just had the two back bedroom windows replaced on my Winne. Moisture between the glass. All under warranty, Lucky Me. Anyway the service teck at La Mesa RV said Winnebago was having lots of issues with dual pane windows and moisture leaks and would be soon going back to just the single pane windows in the new rigs. Interesting. We can send men to the moon but can not seal windows panes!
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Old 05-31-2008, 08:14 AM   #10
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Interesting comment but true. I think it can be done. Winnie needs to get a supplier that can do it. ATWOOD sure can't, along with some other items they are not proficient in.
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Old 06-04-2008, 12:52 PM   #11
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We haven't heard anything yet Peter. How's it comming along?
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Old 06-04-2008, 04:15 PM   #12
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Sorry for the delay. The windows adjacent the drivers seat are held in with black butyl tape (4.99 - 8.00 a roll). I deceided to do the job myself because when I looked at the window I noticed that the front edge near the windshield had silicone plus tape. To remove the window I used a thin tool that looked like a pastry butter knife. I pushed in on the tape (back and forth) for about 20 minutes. Then the window started to slowly come out. I then used a razor and started to slice the butyl tape. the tape is sticky almost like bubble gum. Caution: do not pry the window. Work the tool slowly and cut the tape. If your pry on the window you will bend the frame. If you are replacing the window it won't make a difference. I used 1/3 of the roll of tape. Also, the window has a frame inside with screws (no screws at the bottom near the dash)and two screws outside at the bottom left hand corner of the frame. I cleaned the tape off the frame off the RV with mineral spirits and also hand rubbed it off with my thumb.

The atwood windows are under warranty for two years. Atwood sent me the window free but not the tape. If I was within the first year of warranty they would have paid for labor.

Also, I noticed a water spot on the ledge of the fixed window before I replaced it. I thought it was coming from the window directly above it, but I discoverd that on the drivers side of the top roof cap, and on the portion just above the windows, where the cap meets the side body, the silicone was failing in 1/2 inch vertical area. I cleaned the area up and re-siliconed it. No more leak.

Hope that helps . Also I would have never been able to complete the job without help from Mike! Mike has a great word file to complete the job.

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Old 06-05-2008, 04:02 AM   #13
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PETER GRIFFIN: Was the "Mike" you refer to the service mgr at Winnebago? If it was, he is really a terrific individual. Hamlin I think is his last name. Done a super job for me. Just curious.
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Old 06-05-2008, 08:01 AM   #14
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No. it was Mike from florida from IRV2.COM.
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Old 06-07-2008, 05:55 PM   #15
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Sounds like you made out just great!
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Old 07-09-2008, 11:58 AM   #16
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Is there a single pane glass window replacement for these defective dual pane (pain) windows available???
I would like to try replacing the side windows on my 2001 Brave and only want to have to do this once.
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Old 07-09-2008, 06:04 PM   #17
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by boatracer:
Is there a single pane glass window replacement for these defective dual pane (pain) windows available???
I would like to try replacing the side windows on my 2001 Brave and only want to have to do this once. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Any glass shop that does Automotive or Truck/Bus glass should be able to help with this. I worked in the residential millwork business and could even have old stained glass windows encapsulated inside thermopane by the big glass shops in the Boston area. Just about any size, shape, grade and thickness is available if you are shopping at the right place. PPG in Boston is the name that comes to mind however it has been 20 years since I last did this.
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Old 07-10-2008, 01:58 AM   #18
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check index in FIND for windows. someone posted a procedure to break the inside window pane only of the dual pane windows that would leave the outside window pane intact. there is also a procedure to drill air circulation holes in the seals to reduce fogging posted. MODERATOR HELP???
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Old 09-26-2008, 02:03 PM   #19
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Hi Ho: Just finished replacing the trapezoidal window in front of the driver door and learned a few things that I want to pass along.

1. The cause of the moisture between the panes of glass in my case was delamination on the bottom of the window (about 5 inches of the outer pane). It depended on whether it was hot and dry or wet whether any moisture was visible. (We live in a desert)

2. One can simply change out the glass by removing the material (some kind of butyl I think) that holds the glass in the frame. There is no need to remove the frame. First remove the rubber strips from the outside by just pulling on them. It then took me about 4 or 5 minutes with a flat blade screwdriver to remove the sticky stuff that holds the glass in the frame working from inside the coach. Just dig it out on all four sides. Then an easy push on the glass pops it out.

3. Replacement is also straight-forward. The trick is to place a ribbon of 3M Windo-Weld Ribbon Sealer (Part no. 08611) on the frame where it was attached to the old glass and press the new glass in place. This material is round 5/16" by 15'. It is available from auto body shop suppliers. It must be compressed so that there is room to reinstall the rubber strips. A little clear or black RTV helps hold them in place and seals the corners.

I started out to remove the frame by taking out a bunch of screws, then realized that I only wanted to replace the glass and the frame could stay in. This isn't a 20 minute job, but shouldn't be more than a couple of hours and is relatively straight-forward.

For what it's worth, I think one could remove the glass, bake out the moisture and then reseal the old glass and put it back in. I would have given this a try since the delamination was very apparent, but had already bought the replacement glass. Maybe someone else will try it.

I know this is an old post, but thought others may still have this to contend with.

Good luck, Dirk
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