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Old 10-20-2017, 03:40 AM   #1
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CHF

Can the cheap handling fix be done on the work horse chassis or just the Ford chassis?
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Old 10-20-2017, 07:04 AM   #2
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It's a Ford only fix. What Workhorse chassis do you have and what year. Adding that info to your signature or when posting a question will help people respond better.
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Old 10-20-2017, 10:21 AM   #3
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You know, I have tried putting the info on my signature also.
Go to edit signature and it never shows up.
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Old 10-21-2017, 11:03 AM   #4
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2005 istica sonama w30, 32 maybe I think, have to go check
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Old 10-21-2017, 09:55 PM   #5
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Easiest way to tell is to look.

The Ford has two holes in the sway bar that allows you to move the linkage from the last hole at the end of the bar providing softer control to the middle position providing stiffer control however there is a trade off when you do this since if you stiffen up the front then the entire coach will more immediately react to changes in the road pitch to the left or right as soon as the front wheels hit them and sitting up as high as you do in a motor home can make you feel like your riding in the crows nest of a tall ship.

When I put an IPD (now Roadmaster) high performance sway bar in my previous Workhorse coach it was way too stiff when riding in construction areas. That was an extreme upgrade since the sway bar was about twice the weight of the original and came with very stiff polyurethane bushings instead of the softer black rubber ones. Yes it did eliminate body roll going around corners but with any slight change in the roads level side to side the chassis would more rigidly and instantly react to the change at the front wheels.
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Old 10-22-2017, 06:32 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Khuuff View Post
2005 istica sonama w30, 32 maybe I think, have to go check
Maybe a P30, P32. Look at front end. Does it have a solid front axle with leaf springs or independent front suspension with coil springs.
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Old 10-22-2017, 10:45 AM   #7
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Coils with the air bags
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Old 10-23-2017, 07:13 AM   #8
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Okay, that's a P32 chassis. Check air pressure in air bags. Look at the rubber sway bar bushings, they may be shot by now. After that things get a little more expensive. Shocks, could be time to replace. Bell cranks on steering gear, if the bearings are worn that will cause play in the steering. What issue are you having? Sway, steering control, etc.
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Old 10-23-2017, 08:59 AM   #9
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Mainly white knuckle driving when big rigs get around me.will check out the shocks and front sway bar bushing. Prev owner said he usually ran 60 lbs in the air bags, but from what I read in the manual, it said inflate to 90 the reduce as needed to level mh. I think the front sets a little low no matter what. I do plan on installing a track bar this spring.i think it has a newer bell crank
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Old 11-01-2017, 04:41 PM   #10
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I replaced the front springs with one recommended for my 2003 chieftain. by Henderson spring..
I also had to replace the shocks to stop porpoising on bridges. Road master was also a great help in solving the handling problem..
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Old 11-02-2017, 07:54 AM   #11
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KHUUFF - When we first brought home our Winnie I actually contacted Brazels RV Performance to ask about the "Cheap handling fix" because she was rockin' and rollin' all over the road. I was told their fixes do not apply to Chevy - period. So, I went to a better source, the IRV2 forums.

I have since replaced the bushings on our anti-sway bars front and back with some stiffer ones. That helped significantly since all of the original ones were rubber and very stretched; in fact, the passenger front bushing apparently was not even bolted down when we got our coach from the previous owner - the sway bar was actually held on only by the driver-side bushing and free-floating (which accounted for the clanking I was hearing when we first drove her home)! Don't even ask about the "inspection" beforehand, it's too long a story to repeat and off-topic. I also replaced the virtually non-existent rear "axle bumper pads" on the frame with Timbren's suspension kits. After playing around with the air bags, I finally settled for 75 lbs as a compromise between safety and sway. Also, you might try to find a safe tire pressure sweet spot to balance hardness and comfort, but DO NOT UNDER-INFLATE. Our old gal is doing better now, but I plan on installing a new bell crank to eliminate a lot of the slack in the steering, and replacing the shocks simply because the Monroes are 17 yrs old and probably need replacing anyway. Good luck.
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Old 11-07-2017, 06:00 PM   #12
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Update.....fine tuned tire pressure all around..��, much better now.still get a little push from bigger vehicles..,this spring I will do a front end alignment and the panhard bar, or what ever it's called....anyway was very nice to be able to let go with one hand and reach for a drink...
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Old 11-07-2017, 06:02 PM   #13
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Thanks for the help everyone. Correct tire pressure does make a difference. Still need to work on it some but don't underrate the simple things
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Old 11-08-2017, 07:13 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Khuuff View Post
and the panhard bar, or what ever it's called.
Panhard = Track bar = (in my case) a HUGE improvement in handling. I'm on the Ford chassis but now have much less tail-wag and push from passing vehicles. Was probably the best "handling" $ I've spent.
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