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Old 10-13-2015, 11:14 AM   #21
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Neil V- I don't deny that Winnebago calls for Manus 75AM. But the factory applied silicone has held my roof on for 10 years. And, except for a 5' section that separated over the driver door area recently, still does. I saw no reason to tear out 65 linear feet of good silicone still working to put in the Manus. I'll keep a close eye on it and if larger sections start to come loose I'll clean it all out and use the Manus.

In the spirit of full disclosure, my Suncruiser lives in a climate controlled building in the mild Pacific Northwest when not in use. That is only about 45-50 days per year. I suspect that has had a lot to do with the longevity of the silicone.
The factory has applied Manus for decades not silicone. We verified that when the dealer called Winnebagos Dealer Rep. They use the same part number on the production line as is listed in the callout sheet however it is fresh stock and not used once it reaches the end of its shelf life.
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Old 10-13-2015, 12:59 PM   #22
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It seems we are getting different stories depending upon who answers the phone. I was told by a tech rep at the factory that in 2005 silicone was used. The reason Winnie later switched to the Manus was because people doing the replacement failed to properly and completely clean the old silicone off before applying the new which wouldn't adhere. According to him, the Manus is more forgiving and will stick to any slight residual silicone left on.

Neil, let me ask you this. What does the Manus look like after it's been on for a few years? Is it colored, clear, rubbery, or just what? I ask because I'd bet my life the old stuff I removed was silicone. I'm a boater and and have used silicone for years and this stuff looks, feels and acts like silicone. Thanks.

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Old 10-14-2015, 07:32 PM   #23
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It seems we are getting different stories depending upon who answers the phone. I was told by a tech rep at the factory that in 2005 silicone was used. The reason Winnie later switched to the Manus was because people doing the replacement failed to properly and completely clean the old silicone off before applying the new which wouldn't adhere. According to him, the Manus is more forgiving and will stick to any slight residual silicone left on.

Neil, let me ask you this. What does the Manus look like after it's been on for a few years? Is it colored, clear, rubbery, or just what? I ask because I'd bet my life the old stuff I removed was silicone. I'm a boater and and have used silicone for years and this stuff looks, feels and acts like silicone. Thanks.

Rocky
I agree with you Rocky, that indoor storage 80% of the year will give you very long life on everything, inside and out. My theory why the seal breaks open is the roof joint gets a lot of stress from day/night thermal cycling and the physical movement of the roof and the wall when the coach twists. And uv for sun degrades everything.

Rocky, did you order your coach from the factory, or brand new, or was it on the dealers lot for a long time (ie >6 months)? I'm thinking maybe it was resealed by dealer or prior owner before you took ownership. I've know a few folks with 2005 model years and in re-sealing, didn't find silicone. It could be that the environment your coach has been in would keep urethane soft, clear, and flexible for 10+ years, so maybe it's not silicone. I know the sun will make clear urethane turn somewhat yellow and hard.
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Old 10-14-2015, 07:50 PM   #24
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We bought it brand new. It had made the trip from Forest City to Seattle and been on the dealer's lot 2 days when we bought it in Dec. of 2004.

We've made a few long trips but it is fairly low milage since we use it mostly to go back and forth and as a "cabin" on some property we own 150 miles from home. Of course the crappy roads in Washington give it plenty of opportunity to flex and twist.

I hope Neil or someone answers my question regarding the look, feel and texture of the Manus. I'm very curious about it and how it is to work with as compared to silicone.

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Old 10-15-2015, 11:44 AM   #25
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The 95 had more of a Butyl Rubber Caulk however the 2001 is like a more firm butyl rubber or hard urathane almost like a suspension bushing not the more pliant silicone.
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Old 10-15-2015, 02:57 PM   #26
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Interesting. Thanks.
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Old 10-15-2015, 09:11 PM   #27
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On my 2014 Vista large sections of the roof radius joint sealant failed on both sides of the roof. Was able to get WBGO to replace the sealant at the dealer. So the factory applied Manus sealant lasted less than 2 years. I suspect poor surface preparation or maybe expired product shelf life.
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Old 10-16-2015, 08:40 PM   #28
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I just resealed both sides of the roof to side rail seams on my 2005 Winnie Adventurer 37b after finding 90% of both sides not attached. I spent 2 days scraping and pulling the old stuff out which was mostly polyurethane with some silicone patches over parts of the seams. I used the Winnebago recommended polyurethane sealant to reseal the seams and it turned out great. The key to making this work for the long term is in the prep work and cleaning thoroughly before applying the new sealant. I don't know how long this will last as its only been a month and I haven't driven anywhere yet. The polyurethane set up nicely and has made a good seal between roof and side rail. I have never had very good luck with silicone sealant on any application that is exposed to the elements on a long term basis. I would be very interested to learn how long the silicone users seals last versus the polyurethane users.
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Old 10-17-2015, 12:41 AM   #29
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After doing a little roof inspection, I needed to do a little joint touch-up this year, after 5 years of full timing. I called Winnebago to confirm what I heard for my RV model, to select the proper sealant. In touching up those few spots on the roof side edge joints, I got a polyurethane sealant at Home Depot, that said it was the same as Manus 75AM.


It wasn't in the normal paint/caulking section of the store, but in the roofing & masonry section.


Nice thing was that in prepping the surface, I could clean out the loose sections fairly easily (only a few feet). On the other sections (a few feet on either side) that had developed a crack but still adhered to each side of the joint, I used a small dremel wire brush to clean the joint, and then rubbed the surfaces to be repaired with mineral spirits. Once the joint was dry again, I applied the new sealant, the bead was smooth, and easy to control. On the areas where it was applied over the old, it adhered perfectly. Wouldn't have done that on silicon. It developed a surface skin in a couple of hours, and seemed fully cured in 24 hours. It hasn't been that long, six months, but the RV has been in all sorts of hot, cold, wet, and lots of travel over rough roads, the joints look perfect.


I think lots of folks when asked about caulking, say 'silicon' without even thinking about other types that are available, nor understanding there are some real performance differences for the eventual end use.


In the case of the roof side edges, it is a structural situation as well as a water sealing situation that needs to be addressed.
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Old 10-18-2015, 01:07 PM   #30
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That's certainly a different experience than I had with polyurethane. When I used it, it was a total disaster. See my post #13 in this thread. Yes, I had all the old material out and cleaned it thoroughly with denatured alcohol and a small brush then a clean terry cloth rag.

I don't understand how a polyurethane can behave the same way as a single part urethane. They are quite different in composition according to the person I spoke with at Manus. If you ended up with a clean, smooth, flexible joint that's great. How about sharing the brand name on it?

Rocky
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Old 10-18-2015, 01:26 PM   #31
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Litewave,
"I would be very interested to learn how long the silicone users seals last versus the polyurethane users"

Well Sir, since I'm the OP of this thread, and the user of "Silicone" in place of maybe what was supposed to be used, I'll let you, and or, anyone else know the durability and time length of this repair/reseal. I did such a nice job of it that I'm sure as he... not going to dig it all out and replace it, even though there's really not that much. This will be a test of time.
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Old 10-18-2015, 01:57 PM   #32
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That would be great, and I'll report on my silicone duribility. I'm not sure how typical my results will be since our rig lives most of its life in climate controlled garage. We use it about 40-50 days a year and drive it only about 1500 miles yearly. That may all change as we are now both healthy and free for longer trips.
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Old 10-19-2015, 10:44 AM   #33
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When searching for the Manus 75AM, I found a recommended substitute, called Henry 212 Clear. It was in the roofing section of Home Depot. It was designed to patch roofs and concrete surfaces, could be used on a variety of surfaces, wet or dry, said it was the perfect sealant for all your roofing needs, and on and on, as they all say.


Now that I really read the label, it says it is a 'high performance thermoplastic sealant'.


All I can say is, that it went on smooth, adhered to the existing sealant where I overlapped, skinned over in under an hour, and was cured fully, when I left the park a few days later. It laid down a smooth bead, and I used it for the four corner end cap edges too. I prepped the surfaces and cleaned up with Mineral Spirits.


And after some 6 months of sun, wet, cold, and 8000 miles of driving to stress the joints, all still looks great!
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Old 10-19-2015, 11:36 AM   #34
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Winnebago now has an ongoing Customer Satisfaction Campaign to put Eternabond tape over roof to side wall joints on 2015 Itasca Sunstars and the Winnie Vista. It is CSC-10057526-1208.PDF at the NHTSA website, Winnie service bulletin SC-65-02.
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Old 10-19-2015, 09:48 PM   #35
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Too late for me :(

Thanks so much for this post. I wish I'd read it sooner. The roof blew off my 1999 Itasca Sunrise SE on October 12. Insurance is refusing to help. I have all winter to research options and formulate a plan.
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Old 10-20-2015, 12:34 AM   #36
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Thanks so much for this post. I wish I'd read it sooner. The roof blew off my 1999 Itasca Sunrise SE on October 12. Insurance is refusing to help. I have all winter to research options and formulate a plan.
Roadhog,
If it were me, and we really liked the coach, I'd have that roof setup with a luan (light sheeting of wood) and, have it RHINO LINED. I've seen a few roofs done with it and, it's fantastic. It's all one piece when it's all done and, it's quieter and, reflects more suns rays than the original one. And basically, it's INDESTRUCTABLE!
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Old 10-20-2015, 12:37 AM   #37
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Roadhog,
If it were me, and we really liked the coach, I'd have that roof setup with a luan (light sheeting of wood) and, have it RHINO LINED. I've seen a few roofs done with it and, it's fantastic. It's all one piece when it's all done and, it's quieter and, reflects more suns rays than the original one. And basically, it's INDESTRUCTABLE!
Scott
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Thanks Scott. That's certainly among my available options.
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Old 10-21-2015, 02:34 PM   #38
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Roadhog,


I have to agree with FIREUP on his comment about the Rhino Lining. Last month we were at a campground, I saw a Tour with the Rhino Lining not only on the roof edging, but also on the front. It was a very smooth finish, but it looked great.


Bob
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Old 10-21-2015, 05:54 PM   #39
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Roadhog,


I have to agree with FIREUP on his comment about the Rhino Lining. Last month we were at a campground, I saw a Tour with the Rhino Lining not only on the roof edging, but also on the front. It was a very smooth finish, but it looked great.


Bob
Thanks Bob.

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