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Old 11-14-2005, 11:41 AM   #1
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Building a blow out plug for winterizing the water system on my Class A RV from "off the shelf" parts in a hardware store.

I wasn't happy with the blow out plugs I was able to find on the World Wide Web or at Camping World. The blow out plugs I was able to find connected to a compressor via a tire fill valve. What I wanted was a blow out plug with a quick disconnect fitting compatible with the one on my air hose.

So I went to the hardware store and I found "off the shelf" fittings that allowed me to make a contraption that necked down from a male hose thread to an air hose coupler for about the same cost as a plastic camping world blow out plug with a tire valve.

Here is what I selected (but there are other solutions):

3/4" male to a 1/2" female bushing. The 3/4" male thread fits a water hose coupler.

1/2" X 2 1/2" pipe nipple. Any length will work depending upon clearance on your RV and how much leverage you want to put on your RV pipes.

1/2" female to 1/4" female reduction coupler.

1/4" male thread plug. A standard male quick disconnect fitting for air tools.

Teflon tape to seal the threads.

I didn't price the 1/4" male thread plug because I bought mine on e-bay but the other three items sold for under $4.00.
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Old 11-14-2005, 11:41 AM   #2
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Building a blow out plug for winterizing the water system on my Class A RV from "off the shelf" parts in a hardware store.

I wasn't happy with the blow out plugs I was able to find on the World Wide Web or at Camping World. The blow out plugs I was able to find connected to a compressor via a tire fill valve. What I wanted was a blow out plug with a quick disconnect fitting compatible with the one on my air hose.

So I went to the hardware store and I found "off the shelf" fittings that allowed me to make a contraption that necked down from a male hose thread to an air hose coupler for about the same cost as a plastic camping world blow out plug with a tire valve.

Here is what I selected (but there are other solutions):

3/4" male to a 1/2" female bushing. The 3/4" male thread fits a water hose coupler.

1/2" X 2 1/2" pipe nipple. Any length will work depending upon clearance on your RV and how much leverage you want to put on your RV pipes.

1/2" female to 1/4" female reduction coupler.

1/4" male thread plug. A standard male quick disconnect fitting for air tools.

Teflon tape to seal the threads.

I didn't price the 1/4" male thread plug because I bought mine on e-bay but the other three items sold for under $4.00.
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Old 11-14-2005, 05:49 PM   #3
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I use the one from CW. I use a lock on air chuck with it. Its been good for 6 years & two MHs. I just lock it on & let the compressor run, until all the waters gone.
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Old 11-15-2005, 10:19 AM   #4
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I built a similar adaptor but I also installed a ball valve in it to shut off the air flow.
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Old 11-16-2005, 08:58 AM   #5
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First of all I would not use a standard compressor,only a OIL-LESS type small compressor.
second is I would put a in-line regulator so as to prevent any build up of pressure.I set mine at 45 psi hook up and go inside and start releasing water at valves and pumps. I also use this set up to blow out my Icemaker lines,and clean out the in-line water filter under sink before I remove and cap off to install the antifreeze.
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Old 11-16-2005, 09:15 AM   #6
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Oklahoma MR C:
First of all I would not use a standard compressor,only a OIL-LESS type small compressor.
second is I would put a in-line regulator so as to prevent any build up of pressure.I set mine at 45 psi hook up and go inside and start releasing water at valves and pumps. I also use this set up to blow out my Icemaker lines,and clean out the in-line water filter under sink before I remove and cap off to install the antifreeze. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
THIS IS ABSOLUTELY THE BEST WAY. Do note the OIL-LESS compressor mentioned and that was said for a good reason.

Rich
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Old 11-16-2005, 09:23 AM   #7
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I just made up a real simple adapter last night by taking the plastic one available everywhere and pulling the valve stem out and replacing it with a standard quick change fitting. It screws in tightly enough to take the 25-30 pound pressure I use. I also use an inline filter and pressure regulator to make sure that I don't get any debris or too much pressure. I've already got too many projects to work on and don't need to be replacing any water lines from using too much pressure.

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Old 11-16-2005, 10:25 AM   #8
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What type of pressure regulator do you use?

I've been thinking about using my inline filter to keep stuff out but will the pressure regulator I use for water work for air?
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Old 11-16-2005, 06:01 PM   #9
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For the last 5 or 6 years I have taken other route to drain the FW system of my RV. I use my Shop Vacuum! Why use air to blow water up hill as well as possibly contaminating the FW system with oily air?

A short piece of 5/8-inch automotive heater hose will slip over the low point drains on my RV. I made an adapter that adapts from my Shop Vac. hose to the heater hose.

I drain the HWH and replace the drain plug, leaving the HWH inlet and outlet and by-pass valves open. Slip the heater hose over either the hot or cold water drain, open the drain valve and turn on the Shop Vac. Then go into the RV and open and close each faucet in succession. Then shift the Vac. to the other drain and repeat the procedure. Viola! The draining is completed.

BTW- do you know what an Expert is?

An X is the unknown factor and a spurt is a drip under pressure. LOL
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Old 11-16-2005, 07:07 PM   #10
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by JD Allen:
What type of pressure regulator do you use?

I've been thinking about using my inline filter to keep stuff out but will the pressure regulator I use for water work for air? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I use one that I bought years ago for auto painting work - it definitely would be overkill to purchase one like it for this purpose! It is a multi stage filtration unit that is designed to keep all contaminants out of the paint and a precise pressure regulator. I don't even know if Binks still makes (markets?) them anymore, it has been quite a few years now.

Chris
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Old 11-17-2005, 10:20 AM   #11
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I cut the end off an old garden hose. Put a ball valve on one end and an air connector on the other. works fine.
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Old 11-28-2005, 07:07 PM   #12
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I don't fool with blowing out the lines, it seems such a waste of time to me. I just allow the RV anti-freeze to push out the water and close each valve when pink appears. It's worked for near 37 years now without problems. Our new 40' Grand Junction required 2 gallons anti-freeze to winterize; including the clothes washer.
P.S. 12/5/05, Camping World catalog has blowout plugs for $1.38 I think, can't remember for sure. I threw it away already.
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