|
08-23-2016, 08:41 PM
|
#1
|
Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Conroe, Texas
Posts: 55
|
Basement Air working correctly
I have a Winnebago 2004 33v Adventure, my question is how long should it take for the air conditioner to cool down the coach? in addition what is the difference between the low and high settings on the thermostat? I notice the fan speed doesn't not change much between the two settings.
The current usage meter shows approx. 20 amp when the air is on, is this correct?
The air filters *X2 are located under the bed, does the slide need to be out of allow adequate air flow?
|
|
|
08-24-2016, 12:45 AM
|
#2
|
Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Oregon
Posts: 477
|
How long it should take depends on a lot of factors. But we can hit the basic ones.
First is the air coming out of the registers cooler than the air outside and inside the MH?
How cold are you trying to get it?
Are the filters clean?
20 amps sounds about right for both compressors to kick in.
Place the fan on AUTO if it has that other wise High.
Depending on how humid and hot inside the MH it could take hours to get the temp down to 70. Just make sure you check to see if the AC is dripping water on the outside.
When was the last time you clean the condenser? If it is real dirty it will take even longer.
__________________
Retired Navy Submariner
2014 Itasca Sunstar 35F; 5 Star tuned; 2014 Jeep Cherokee TrailHawk
|
|
|
08-24-2016, 06:48 AM
|
#3
|
Winnebago Master
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,080
|
Another thing to check is that the condenser coil is free of dust, dirt, and debris. It's the coil that's visible through the louvers on the passengers side rear of the coach. Winnebago recommends cleaning them at least once or twice a season.
You can access the coil by raising the hinged panel. It's held in place by screws through tabs on the bottom lip of the panel. Just remove the screws and the panel will swing upward. The coils can be brushed with a soft brush or washed with a hose. You'd be surprised how much crud and dirt can accumulate on the coil over a season of camping.
As a side note there was a post some time ago about an AC unit self destructing because of the massive accumulation of dirt on the coils. The owner was complaining that Winnebago should replace it under warranty because they were never told it was a maintenance item. Apparently they didn't bother to read the owners manual.
__________________
Hikerdogs
2013 Adventurer 32H
|
|
|
08-24-2016, 07:13 AM
|
#4
|
Winnebago Master
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: On the Road Westward
Posts: 711
|
On my 03 33v there was a grill area on the side of the bed facing to the rear. This is where the air returned to the filters. So did not make a difference slide in or out. Just make sure your blanket/comforter in not blocking flow.
With the slide out, remove the rear filter and look at your interior coil with a strong flashlight, make sure it is clean. My unit had some plastic sheeting from manufacturing that was blocking a portion of the coil.
Also check the ductwork going from unit to ceiling, located behind the rear cap. Mine split about 1/2 way up and was dumping a lot of cold air into the atmosphere.
There difference between low and hi indoor fan speeds are barely noticable.
__________________
Dan & Sharon & Kasey (Our Yorkie Puppy (12 Yrs Old) On the Road (2012 Journey 36M, 2006 Jeep Liberty)
USN-Ret ('65-'93) Fulltimers, Class of 2012
|
|
|
08-24-2016, 07:23 AM
|
#5
|
Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 14
|
Winnebago basement air generally is ducted up the back wall behind the rear cap. To the ceiling vents. They are famous for the ducting coming apart on that run up the back cap. You can tell by looking up the back with a flashlight or feeling cold air in that area. It's hard to reach and the proper fix is to remove the rear cap $$. Hopefully that's not the problem I'm not sure of the gasser design as I Had a DP.
__________________
2003 Beaver Marquis
2016 25' (20'box) CargoMate car hauler
Bill
|
|
|
08-24-2016, 12:24 PM
|
#6
|
Winnebago Watcher
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 4
|
This is what a duct should not look like.
|
|
|
08-24-2016, 12:28 PM
|
#7
|
Winnebago Watcher
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 4
|
Sorry Picture did not attach properly
|
|
|
08-24-2016, 12:39 PM
|
#8
|
Winnebago Watcher
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 4
|
Sorry new tho this forum so is the 3rd times a charm?
|
|
|
08-24-2016, 02:38 PM
|
#9
|
Winnebago Master
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: On the Road Westward
Posts: 711
|
Good shot Johnny, that's exactly how mine looked. I think all Winny had to do was add a third cross-strap and many of these issues would not of happened. When mine separated we were in New Orleans, hot and humid. My first fix was using one of those small colapsable rv tables as a wedge between the duct and aluminum along with a couple of noodles. Held until I could perform proper cleaning and resealing.
__________________
Dan & Sharon & Kasey (Our Yorkie Puppy (12 Yrs Old) On the Road (2012 Journey 36M, 2006 Jeep Liberty)
USN-Ret ('65-'93) Fulltimers, Class of 2012
|
|
|
08-24-2016, 09:33 PM
|
#10
|
Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 14
|
Great pic ! Exactly what happened to mine ! Gee wonder where all the cold air goes ? I cleaned and patched mine with aluminum tape and not a easy task for sure !
__________________
2003 Beaver Marquis
2016 25' (20'box) CargoMate car hauler
Bill
|
|
|
08-25-2016, 08:16 AM
|
#11
|
Winnebago Watcher
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 4
|
We discovered our duct issues earlier this summer. Of course it was while camping and the outside temp was 95+ and the heat index was over 100+. We could not figure out why the A/C was taking so long to cool down. I remembered a post I read sometime back about this duct being an issue and was not surprised to see our duct falling apart.
When we got home I surveyed the situation, the size of the opening and the lack there of space to get my body up there and came up with a plan.
We made a handle from an old piece of the awning hardware we had (another story for a later time) that had a clamp on it that could be released from the bottom.
1. Cleaned the duct with soapy water and dried it off.
2. Used silver tape to seal the duct while my wife held a piece of aluminum rod against the duct to keep it tight.
3. Put regular duct tape over the silver tape to help keep it clean and protected.
When we tested the unit I noticed that the duct tends to expand and contract when cycled on or off. I decided to add some large zip ties at 6" intervals to help keep the duct stable. Fortunately I could get my arm in the opening when I took out the tail light.
So far so good. Has been working for a month or so. Yet another item to add to the check list of periodic maintenance.
__________________
John & Tomma R.
2007 Winnebago Voyage / 2014 Chevy Equinox in tow
W22 Workhorse Chassis, 8.1L, Allison 6 Speed
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|