Basement Air--For those that have it--READ!

[RCtime]

Ed

I had exactly the same problem you are describing except I showed 19 amp on the panel with the 2nd compressor kicked in
There are two causes for this according to the troubleshooting guide.
low freon and/or dirt/lint build up on the evaporator.
My problem was I lad a leak at the evaporator on the #1 compressor. and low freon.
I took my unit to Lodgmobile an authorized repair center, they patched the leak, recharged the unit, and it again blows cold and the amps are back up on the panel.
Take your unit in to someplace that knows there stuff and can do complete repair work. I bet your low on freon.

[azloafer]

Originally Posted by RCtime

Ed

I had exactly the same problem you are describing except I showed 19 amp on the panel with the 2nd compressor kicked in
There are two causes for this according to the troubleshooting guide.
low freon and/or dirt/lint build up on the evaporator.
My problem was I lad a leak at the evaporator on the #1 compressor. and low freon.
I took my unit to Lodgmobile an authorized repair center, they patched the leak, recharged the unit, and it again blows cold and the amps are back up on the panel.
Take your unit in to someplace that knows there stuff and can do complete repair work. I bet your low on freon.

What amp reading do you have now? I wanted to compare your reading with mine. Thanks, Joe

[RCtime]

Joe

It now varies between 26 to 27 amps. The refer. was on elect. so maybe the fan kicked in now an then.
The real improvement was the test with my IR temp. gauge. I was consitently showing 25 to 27 temp. difference between the return grill and a nearby cold air outlet.
Funny, the closest outlet directly over my bed, was always 2-3 degrees warmer than the one 2-3 outlets furthher down the line over the dinette. The dinette outlet also had higher air flow.
I remember when I 1st purchased this motorhome 3 yrs ago, the 27 amp reading was the norm for it then also, but about a 20 deg. differential in outlet readings, always taken at the over the bed outlet, so an improvement in actual cooling.

[edgray]

Originally Posted by RCtime

Ed

I had exactly the same problem you are describing except I showed 19 amp on the panel with the 2nd compressor kicked in.
There are two causes for this according to the troubleshooting guide.
low freon and/or dirt/lint build up on the evaporator............. I bet your low on freon.

RCtime: Even on my 30 amp shore power, I'm pretty sure both compressors are running, but I'm only seeing 12 amps with one on and 17-18 with both on. This is a new unit, just > 6,000 miles, so I don't think dirt is the problem.

I'm guessing the lower than normal amps could be an indication that the freon IS low and therefore the compressors are not working "hard" enough to draw significent amps. Even when I had a 50 amp connection I was only reading 19 amps, and then we had other stuff "on" too. THANKS to all who helped. I'll be searching for a service center and expect warranty will cover the repairs, but not the cost of the trip to get there. Ed

[azloafer]

I can read my amps only with the generator on, not shore power. It is a 50 amp system. It was 22 amps with the basement air on and 35 when I put the new 13,500 roof-top air on and 48 with the microwave on. I didn't have the refer on electric. I'll have to try the basement air on with the refer to see if I get your reading of 26 to 27. I have not measured the difference between the return grill and a nearby outlet yet, I'll have to do that. I also notice a greater air flow toward the front of the coach than the bedroom. I have read other posts that reported the same thing. In the evening we have no need for the roof air, but we did close several outlets in the front of the coach so the bedroom got colder. It was unnecessarily cold in the cab area. One other poster mentioned that he was going to add two additional outlets in the bedroom, but closing some front vents seems to do the same as extra outlets would. It only takes a finger push to close/open them, at least in our coach. The driver's side windows are large so we added extra tint even though the windows were factory tinted. This way we can keep the windows open (shade up) and have a view even when it is over 100. On a recent camp-out we had everything running, except the electric hot water heater, and we were cooking using the convection oven. I watched the control panel to see if it would shed the second basement compressor, but it never did. We have never used the awnings which are on the passenger side. I guess we are gun-shy after a wind ripped one of our slide toppers. Now, if there is a storm warning we pull the two slides in and wait it out. Thanks for the info, it helps to compare information. Joe

[edgray]

Originally Posted by RCtime

Ed

I had exactly the same problem you are describing except I showed 19 amp on the panel with the 2nd compressor kicked in.
There are two causes for this according to the troubleshooting guide.
low freon and/or dirt/lint build up on the evaporator............. I bet your low on freon.

RCtime: Even on my 30 amp shore power, I'm pretty sure both compressors are running, but I'm only seeing 12 amps with one on and 17-18 with both on. This is a new unit, just > 6,000 miles, so I don't think dirt is the problem.

I'm guessing the lower than normal amps could be an indication that the freon IS low and therefore the compressors are not working "hard" enough to draw significent amps. Even when I had a 50 amp connection I was only reading 19 amps, and then we had other stuff "on" too. THANKS to all who helped. I'll be searching for a service center and expect warranty will cover the repairs, but not the cost of the trip to get there. Ed

[RCtime]

http://http://www.rvcomfort.com/rvp/...ed_repairs.php

Hi
This might help. Here is what I found when I went repair center searching.. Winnebago dealers are wothless. They will tell you to come in and they will look at it. But if you ask them if they can recharge a system with freon they say no, they are just not equiped to do the job.
Be sure and get a repair center that can do it all., track down the leak, repair it. recharge the system etc. etc. ask the right questions.
Also make sure your unit is equipped with a hard start kit..
Loadgemobile in the Los Angeles area did my repair work, a 1st class know what their doing place. $19.00 for the hard start kit.
They had to remove the unit, and I had to come back 3 days later and they reinstalled it. all fixed and cooling nicely.

[azloafer]

What is a hard start kit, what does it do? Joe

[lpasekof]

A Hard Start kit is basically a big capacitor that gives the compressor the necessary voltage to start - especially under load. Most, if not all, air conditioners have a capacitor to help with the startup. A Hard Start is a Bigger capacitor that helps when the load is heaver.

[RCtime]

Originally Posted by azloafer

What is a hard start kit, what does it do? Joe

Just click on my username, then click on go to some of my previous posts.
I posted about my repair and asked the same question you did when I saw this hard start kit on my bill.

[edgray]

Originally Posted by RCtime

http://http://www.rvcomfort.com/rvp/...ed_repairs.php

Hi
This might help. Here is what I found when I went repair center searching.. Winnebago dealers are wothless. They will tell you to come in and they will look at it. But if you ask them if they can recharge a system with freon they say no, they are just not equiped to do the job.
Be sure and get a repair center that can do it all., track down the leak, repair it. recharge the system etc. etc. ask the right questions.
Also make sure your unit is equipped with a hard start kit..
Loadgemobile in the Los Angeles area did my repair work, a 1st class know what their doing place. $19.00 for the hard start kit.
They had to remove the unit, and I had to come back 3 days later and they reinstalled it. all fixed and cooling nicely.

Thanks, but the link does not work (at least for me) . I went to RVP site earlier and searched for dealers. Had to go out to 100 miles to find ANY. One said "we don't work on basement units" and another who IS a Winnie dealer said "yes-we know how to solder in the fittings we need to recharge the system, we won't use "saddle clamp valves" but their first appointment available is 2 weeks away. I guess I should just go somewhere cooler! Ed

[dc8cappie]

Try this. Airxcel | RV Products Service

[RCtime]

They dont need to just recharge the unit, they have to find out where the leak is, repair it, then recharge it. That freon went somewhere, your unit is just too new not to have lost it somewhere, if indeed that is your problem.
Yeah that link has too many https in it. I feel for you, good luck

[Doug Sage]

My rule of thumb about amps used by the air conditioner is this: 1 compressor has amps in the teens, two compressors have amps in the twenties. This makes it nice and easy to remember. I don't worry about the exact number because of all the other possible loads such as converter, refrigerator, etc.

[mrschwarz]

Originally Posted by RVhauler

Question i have for the ones thinking of installing roof top A/C is where the electric will come from. The power vents are only 12VDC and you need at least a 20 amp 120VAC power circuit. As it is almost impossible to run any lines thru walls/roof then could mean cutting into the structure.

<Mine came from the one-place. I tied into the engine heater circuit and ran the wire through the duct to the vent opening. I fished it through the foam roof panel from the duct to the opening. It wasn' that difficult.

Others have run a dedicated wire from the breaker panel. I wasn't that ambitious.

[stardalo]

So I got to test the rooftop ac that I added to the rv this past week. Took a trip to Charleston and Myrtle Beach. Temps topped in the mid to high 90's plus fairly high humidity and I was parked in direct sunlight. The rooftop ac working in addition to the basement ac kept the coach as cool as I wanted it to be without doing anything other than putting the awnings out. The temp inside the rv did not top 72 and we were going in and out opening and closing the door several times. I have to say that I am really happy with the rooftop addition. A great upgrade.

[Mike & Fran]

Got worried about all the a/c talk, so called Lichsinn Motors yesterday. They said parts are still available for my unit. But Coleman now makes a new unit with diff freon and for 50 amp units only. My main concern was parts availability for my unit as it all of a sudden will not cool down enough. Now to find a dealer in my area that knows what he is doing!!!! Lichsinn Motors is located next to Winne plant and I have had good exp with them on parts.

[WendellG]

Originally Posted by Thudman

Abbreviated version: Nr 1 compressor died; wired around it so that #2 works. Called RVP Tech, spent about 1 1/2 hrs on phn (he was VERY patient) with an electrician on my end. RVP Tech agreed #1 compressor is shot (too many trouble-shooting details to go into here). It's 91* outside (Marion, NC) and 89* inside, Humidity about 95%. Lovely.

Again today (I'm @ Tom Johnson Cmpg Ctr) I called RVP to inquire about availability of entire new unit, rather than R&R #1 cmprsr, upgrade blower cage & R&R bearings to sealed. The RVP Tech said they stopped making the basement air units (Model 6535xxxx) Jan 2010, 'cause Winnie went to roof airs in 2011. NO basement units are available from RVP. And RVP compressors are on back order til August 20 (maybe). IMHO that rules out buying any Winnie w/basement air.

If anyone knows where/how to buy a new (even reconditioned) unit, pls advise soonest. It's HOT! The ice in my Martini melted in record time.

Thudman

We just bought a new 2010 Adventuruer 37' and our dealer (SuncoastRV in Jacksonville, Fl.) stated that in 2011, the EPA made Winnebago go to roof air and used that as a selling point.

[edgray]

Originally Posted by WendellG

We just bought a new 2010 Adventuruer 37' and our dealer (SuncoastRV in Jacksonville, Fl.) stated that in 2011, the EPA made Winnebago go to roof air and used that as a selling point.

WendellG: that is essentially correct, however EPA did not make WBGO do anything. Rather, EPA mandated a change in the type of Freon that A/C manufacturers can use, and that caused RVP to redesign their basement units.

The delay in getting the new design approved and certified, combined with the space requirements for the additional equipment required for the new SCR anti-pollution treatment ( DEF ) for all the diesel engines used by WBGO / FCCC resulted in WBGO putting the A/C on the rooof for the 2011 models. Now that RVP has a "new design" basement unit available, it remains to be seen if coach builders will use them again.
Ed

[Keith Anderson]

I want my basement air. It's so quiet and efficient. I don't want to retrofit. I don't like being forced into something like this. I've got a 2005 Itasca Horizon and it's so quiet.
I'll keep watching.