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Old 05-03-2006, 02:30 PM   #1
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On my 02 Journey, the basement air used to cycle on and off at outside mid 80 temps even with the door open...Lately it is running constantly at 85 to 90 outside temps but will hold inside set temp of 79 degrees. my discharge air temp in the bedroom is 58 degrees at out side temp of 80 to 85 with sun load of 100 degrees on one side.
On startup the #2 compressor starts...#1 is at 14 amps, both total 18/19 amps. It seems like the second compressor drop off at some point and the #1 runs to hold temp...I know if the temp rises 2 degrees, the #2 should kick in but at a constant hold temp of 79 degrees should the #1 do all the work and run continuously?
I am gettin a good water drip and the rear end ductwork is not leaking...It is impossible to see the condition of the internal cooling coil and the outside coil is clean.
Any help or insight is appreciated as usual. Should this unit be looked at or is it normal to operate this way?
thanks RKL
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Old 05-03-2006, 02:30 PM   #2
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On my 02 Journey, the basement air used to cycle on and off at outside mid 80 temps even with the door open...Lately it is running constantly at 85 to 90 outside temps but will hold inside set temp of 79 degrees. my discharge air temp in the bedroom is 58 degrees at out side temp of 80 to 85 with sun load of 100 degrees on one side.
On startup the #2 compressor starts...#1 is at 14 amps, both total 18/19 amps. It seems like the second compressor drop off at some point and the #1 runs to hold temp...I know if the temp rises 2 degrees, the #2 should kick in but at a constant hold temp of 79 degrees should the #1 do all the work and run continuously?
I am gettin a good water drip and the rear end ductwork is not leaking...It is impossible to see the condition of the internal cooling coil and the outside coil is clean.
Any help or insight is appreciated as usual. Should this unit be looked at or is it normal to operate this way?
thanks RKL
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Old 05-03-2006, 02:53 PM   #3
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You should be pulling about 20-21 amps with both compressors running, so I think you are in the ballpark. I believe you should expect a 20 degree differential inside the coach compared to ambient air temps.

My usual quickie test for air conditioning systems is to look/feel the suction side of the compressor - it should be cold and moist with condensation. Unfortunately there is no easy access to the compressors on the basement air - I believe the unit needs to be pulled to get to the innards.

The "Y" in the rear cap that splits the ducting into two runs has been very problematic for Winnie with splitting of the molded "Y" and also with the duct taping coming loose in the rear cap. IF you are sure that all that is well, then maybe the next step is to get the basement air unit looked at by a pro.
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Old 05-03-2006, 07:07 PM   #4
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RKL
Get yourself a thermometer,set the thermostat at least 10 degrees below the actual temperature,fan set to HIGH SPEED,start the AC system and let it operate for at least 15 minutes with all windows closed door closed.Then check the temperature at one of the ceiling registers (where the cold air blows out)record that temp.
Now check the temperature of the air going to the air filter location,the ideal temperature differance is 20 degrees.If you are in an area of the country that is over 100 degrees outside the interior will be must harder to cool.When I'm at the Colorado River during the summer I set the thermostat between 80 to 85 when its 110 ambient,it normally runs constantly until night.
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Old 05-04-2006, 10:24 AM   #5
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RKL,

RVP, manufacturers of the basement A/C, define the following specs for the amps, split temp, etc.

After running at least 10 minutes to insure that both compressors are up to head pressure, your amp draw should be around 24 amps. this figure could be higher or lower depending on humidity. That will include the amps for both compressors and both fans. Your temperature split, measured as output air from the ceiling ducts and the in house INTAKE/RETURN air should be between 18 and 25 degrees. Much of the amp draw is dependent on location and humidity. Approximately 30% fo the compressor(s) sizing is designed to dehumidify the air, and as such, the amp draw will vary due to local conditions. I'm sure that it is understood the single most critical element in air conditioners is air flow, across the evaporator and the condensor. If the condensor (visible on the outside of the coach) is dirty and starting to be blocked the amp draw will go up. Fortunately Winnebago locates the condensor so that flushing with low pressure/high flow water is easy and lends itself to being done regularly. I have serviced several Winnebago units that the condensor was "clean" but when flushed they discharged a significant amount of dirt, leaves, etc. It would be good practice to flush this area at least every 6 months although it depends on where you travel somewhat.

If you would like specific details of how to check the unit I'll be glad to walk you through it. It does require that you have a clamp on amp meter, and be comfortable with electricity. If you have any concerns about it, see a certified tech to have it checked.


EDIT: It is worth noting that Winnebago, like many other manufacturers, has a problem with overhead flourescent lights creating a noise problem with the thermostat for the a/c and/or the refer. Sooo, it would be best to evaluate the A/C without any flourescent turned on.
Best luck,
Mike
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Old 05-04-2006, 10:37 AM   #6
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Welcome back Mike....
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Old 05-04-2006, 03:40 PM   #7
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by rebelsbeach:
Welcome back Mike.... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>


Thanks Bob, good to be here.

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Old 05-04-2006, 04:10 PM   #8
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Thanks guy...appreciate the help...my amp draw with both compressorson is 22 amps...I narrowed the problem down to the following...Number 1 and 2 compressor will come on in sequence when I fist switch the control button to "cool" . After that when it cycles off, only the number 1 comes on and stays on drawing 15 amps...It will run continuously till the outside temp drop..Today with outside at 93 degrees, it held the inside temp to the 78 degree setting until the outside temp dropped.
Am I correct in assuming the the problem is either the Colemab Mack True Air thermostat or the control board...I have a service tech coming tomorrow with a new thermostat to try first....Thanks for your help...any new ideas would be appreciated....Rkl
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Old 05-04-2006, 06:19 PM   #9
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RKL,

While you haven't identified your model of basement air, I am not able to speak to your specific operational parameters. However, on my unit, if the delta between the room temp and the thermostat set point is not greater than 2 degrees the second stage compressor will not engage. That is the correct method of operation on my unit, and as such I can experience the same conditions you describe. The answer is to drop the set point a couple of degrees and force the second stage compressor to engage and accelerate the cool down of the house.

This is the link to all the RVP packaged basement units and you will want to look for a matching number on the cover plate of your unit (http://www.rvcomfort.com/rvp/tech_info/operation.php)to select the correct operational instructions for your unit.

I would urge you to download the instructions and review them before the Tech gets there as you may have absolutely no problem. I'd hate to see you have a service call for nothing. By the way, if you don't know where the data plate is on your A/C, raise the last curbside panel, the one with the vents for the condensor, and on left end of the A/C you should see the model number. If not, there is a screw on the top of the last section of the A/C, a panel about 4" wide, and it simply lifts off. On the underside of that lid should be the model number.

Good luck, contact me if you need help.

Mike
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Old 05-05-2006, 06:10 AM   #10
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RV GUY...thanks for the advice....I tested my unit (Coleman 6535) with a hair dryer on the thermostat and the #2 compressor cut in with a 2 degree differential...What probably led me to believe I had a problem was that after I cleaned the system thourghly the system would keep the set temp with only # 1 compressor working. This was never the case before...
Also read the delta T and it was 19 degrees....I cancelled the service call per your suggestion and now understand the system better....The downloaded instructions also said there is a 2 degree differential for # 2 to cut in and it will cut out when it reaches a 1 degree differential...Thanks again RKL
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Old 05-05-2006, 06:13 PM   #11
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EXCELLENT! Very well Done!

If I can be of any assistance in the future, please don't hesitate to contact me.

Have fun and safe travels,

Mike
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Old 05-05-2006, 08:12 PM   #12
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RVGuy- Its great to have trained technicians who will take their time to answer questions on these forums. I'm not having any problems at this time with my basement air but I am definitely printing off all your instructions for future references. Thanks again for your contribution.
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Old 05-05-2006, 08:51 PM   #13
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Wagonmaster2,

You're more than welcome. It's great to be able to assist someone, and in the process I never fail to learn something myself.

If you need any assistance, let me know.

Thanks again,
Mike
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