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Old 07-30-2010, 06:43 PM   #21
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How tough was it to drop that ac unit?
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Old 07-30-2010, 08:03 PM   #22
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droping unit

I can pull my A/C out in about 20 minutes, do a search on Duner and he has a wonderful writeup on removing the A/C. The key is to get a ratchet that you can put short phillips screwdriver bits in to get to some of the screws. I also have a bench that I put 4x4 boards on and just slide the unit on, no lifting. If you can't find the writeup, let us know.
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Old 07-31-2010, 07:44 AM   #23
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Not quite sure what Duner is. Is that Duner.com?
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Old 07-31-2010, 09:22 AM   #24
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A/C

Go to the search column on the top of this page and do a search on Duner, he has a very good writeup on pulling the basement a/c.
Try thishttp://picasaweb.google.com/belsenpeter/ACRepairWinnieBasement
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Old 08-01-2010, 03:37 AM   #25
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Hi azloafer,

Billy S has the time right, about 20 minutes having done it before. The first time might be a little longer since you will need to survey the job and collect all the right tools. When I pulled ours, I disconnected the AC and the control cable so it could be completely removed to a picnic table. It’s a lot easier to work on and clean when you can walk around the unit.

One thing to note: the bottom of the AC has two or three screws that stick through and on ours prevented the AC from sitting level on the AC bay’s framework. This caused it to be further out at the bottom then at the top. Winne had somehow forced it into alignment so it wasn’t leaking air or anything but it didn’t want to go back in easily. If you can saw the screws off flush with the under panel of the AC unit, it should slip right back into place. I discovered this problem after returning the AC to it’s bay and wasn’t about to remove it again. Fortunately, I have a very thin back saw with no offset in the teeth which allowed me to flush cut the screws to the bottom of the AC.
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Old 08-01-2010, 06:52 PM   #26
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Well, because I am disabled, I have to trust the dealer. I don't have much choice. The coach only had 7,000 miles on it and the DW thinks that it blows just fine. This weekend (we just got back) we camped in a state park and the weather was in the low 90's with periodic showers, some very hard. I ran the air to get the humidity down, but I had to turn the fan speed down and adjust the temperature because we were getting too cold. We never ran the new roof unit at all. On a side note, the road out of the park goes through a wash and was covered in two feet of mud. We had to wait an hour while a front end loader was used to clear the only way out of the park. We couldn't complain because we knew a storm was coming. No leaks was a plus. In spite of the rain, it was a nice weekend away. Happy travels, Joe
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Old 08-01-2010, 09:37 PM   #27
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a/c air flow problem also

Have a 2003, 38ft, Adventurer with a definite air flow problem. Will not cool below 80 deg when outside air is 90 or above. Did the Wayne M. check with fan on run and changing speeds to check air flow..No change in flow volume! Have the Trueair Control Panel on my unit. Does anyone know where the speed control takes place? Am assuming there must be a wiring problem inside the unit at the fan motor.
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Old 08-02-2010, 05:31 AM   #28
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Hello beanjr,

I believe the speed changeover occurs on the control board of the RVP AC unit. Do you see a 1 Amp. increase (plugged into 30 Amp.) on the One Place when you move the switch to high? If so, then the changeover to high is taking place.

Does the airflow seem ‘quite weak’? If so, then there is some sort of blockage in the system. If it’s not the filter, then I would suspect the accumulation of lint on the evaporator as the culprit.
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Old 08-02-2010, 06:15 AM   #29
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Beanjr; Check the duct just inside the rear cap of your rig. Mine had duct breaches (leaks) where the original tape pulled away from the duct. Do a search on this website about basement A/C duct leaks. The photos there show how to repair the leaks.

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Old 08-02-2010, 08:06 AM   #30
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beanjr,
Ditto Thudmans. We have same year coach, here is my post:

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/duct...ion-71122.html

A bright flashlight will help.

Thudmans solution is in the post thread also.

In the cooling mode, the switch between hi/lo indoor blower speed is made by you at the t-stat, which switches a relay in the basement unit.

In electric heat mode, fan speed is controlled at basement PC board, and is always run on hi.
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Old 08-02-2010, 10:48 PM   #31
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Basement air low air flow

I have been back and forth with Winnie on this system and always get the Working as designed" story. Air out at first vent 25-30 lower than air into return. The real reason that the unit does not cool the MH down is because the ducting in the ceiling is under sized. Two ducts About 2" by 7" = 28 Sq. inches of duct. The unit has a 6" by 7" or 42 Sq inches that means that only2/3 of the max air flow is allowed into the MH. that is also why switching from low to high does not feel any different.
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Old 08-03-2010, 01:04 AM   #32
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I've read about that issue in another post where the dealer said that the ducting is undersized and also the same size basement unit is used in the 40 foot MH and, for an example, in the 35 footers. That is apparently why some owners report the air as "just fine" while the owners of larger coaches report it not being cold enough. Reportedly, after the 2008 models, Winnebago increased the size of the basement units. Joe
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Old 08-03-2010, 02:39 AM   #33
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Better AC Air Flow

Following the coach manual we changed to a "woven fiberglass filter" for the AC and the air flow has increased to an acceptable level. It pays to read the book. Joe
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Old 08-03-2010, 08:53 AM   #34
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Oh! Forgot to mention. Filter type has a very large part in air flow. Just forgot to think about it at the time. A lot of people buy those air filters that are designed to help with allergies and dust. They are usually white, and quite dense. My Brother-in-law is in the AC business and many years ago he told me that if you are going to use that type filter you need to increase the air return almost twofold. Since then I have stayed with the woven fiberglass for bot the stick house and the coach.

Thanks for bringing that up Joe.
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Old 08-05-2010, 11:35 PM   #35
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I have a Meridian 39K and replaced the filter with this filter Best values on 14.00" x 20.00" x 4.00" furnace filters .

I noticed no differance from glass filter but have much better filtration. Down feathers and the power that Congo Gray parrots sched could quickly clog up the air conditioner coils quickly. Be advised this is a 4 inch thick filter and may no fit all models.
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Old 08-10-2010, 03:05 PM   #36
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Added a roof top AC unit...

We added a roof top AC unit and we now stay cool on the hottest days.

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f105/base...tml#post681837
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Old 08-12-2010, 01:18 PM   #37
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I am glad to hear the additional ac is doing its job. Just confirms my belief that I need the roof air.

Very excited. My Coleman 13,500 PS arrived today. Its going in next weekend (or at least that is my plan). I have gathered all the necessary parts, I have my wire run planned and can not wait to be able to enjoy summer camping again!!!!
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Old 08-12-2010, 01:57 PM   #38
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Has anyone tried Areoseal duct sealing? Ductwork - Sealing Duct Work This is apparently a process that blows some stuff into the duct where it deposits only on the leak. No idea the cost, but sounds like it might be an alternative. Any thoughts?
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Old 08-13-2010, 06:17 AM   #39
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Basement air

We have an Ultimate advantage 2000 year, An old coach by many; However, the true air Has never been a problem. It will cool the coach to a comfortable temp, at 100 deg. weather. the coach Is 38' so the additional 2 or more feet could be a factor; We have owned 7 coachs Our vectra and the Advantage Have basement air. We have noticed with the roof air we were getting head colds stuffy noses, Because the air was a bit colder, We have not had that problem with the basement air.. Go figure;; Life is good. We can have what we want,
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Old 08-14-2010, 09:40 AM   #40
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How many amps do you pull with the basement AC and roof top AC running? I am not always able to get a 50 amp hookup. I would expect 27 amps max from basement AC and 16 amps max from roof top AC. I would estimate about 43 amps with both running. Just wondering if I am close to actual amps.
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