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Old 06-13-2009, 07:42 PM   #1
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Basement Air

The #1 compressor is not putting out cold air---it's cool, but not cold. When #2 compressor comes online (>2* delta) cold air comes forth. Suspect loss of R-22 in #1 system; maybe from a leak, because the system seemed to work OK a few weeks ago. I'm in Fla (Destin/Panhandle), so need cool air!! Outside temp has been around 88-90*; and A/C only brings the inside temp to 82-83*.

Question is: how is the system serviced with R-22? I've heard/read here, that a home HVAC tech can handle the job, but does the unit need to be dropped/removed to do the deed? If that's the case, I need to look for an RV Products/Coleman shop. Then there's the possibility of a leak.......

Any thoughts/comments appreciated.

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Old 06-14-2009, 10:35 PM   #2
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According to RVP, the units do not need to be serviced as far as coolant is concerned. But I have heard of a few owners having them adapted so coolant can be added. I don't see how that could be done w/o pulling the unit out of the coach.

Are you sure you don't have a leaky duct where the duct out of the unit curves upward, or somewhere behind the rear cap? Certainly worth checkout out by laying on the ground and checking for cool air, and/or feeling the rear cap in that area when the unit is running at full on a warm day.
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Old 06-15-2009, 06:34 AM   #3
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One of our compressors failed when we had our Journey. We took it to Emerald Coast RV/Camping World in Gulf Breeze not to far from you. At that time the compressor was not available for some reason, they wound up replacing the complete basement air unit under warranty. The work was completed in a timely fashion and they stuck to the appointment times we made. It is not that difficult to remove the basement system, it took them about an hour and a half to get it out.

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Old 06-15-2009, 09:36 AM   #4
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Hi Thudman, how it be?

If your amp use has not changed much on comp 1 I would think the freon still ok. The amps should decrease if your freon is low as the comp would not be able to generate the normal hi side pressures.

I would check the evap (inside) coil for any blockage. I am not sure if the inside coil is designed same as outside, but the outside coil is 2 separate circuits, one on top of the other. If the inside coil is same, the circuit 1 could be restricted, as it is used more than #2.
Just a thought.

If there is a leak then I think the unit would need to be removed to find & repair it.
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Old 06-15-2009, 12:51 PM   #5
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This is a sealed unit and fittings would have to be added to add freon. The unit would have to be dropped as well but I did it in about 30 min. Duner(I think) has great inst on howto do. Do a search and make a copy. They are great. The unit I had before this one They had to add fittings(A total of 4. A high and low for each comp) I had my fitting installed so the pressures could be checked without removing the unit. RVP has great tech support and if you have an amp meter they can walk you thru checking comp without removing the unit. Added on edit, Yes a home hvac can work on these units if they will.Hope this helps
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Old 06-16-2009, 12:16 PM   #6
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Nr 1 Start Capacitor was fried (pix below). Replaced both capacitors, saving the Nr 2 (still good) as a spare.







Tot cost for 2 Start Caps, mobile svc call, taxes: 133.40 . But I'm still not sure that the PC board was not damaged from the heat of the fried Start Cap (cooling is not what it used to be, even with Nr 1 & 2 systems on line). When the outside heat abates a bit, I'll do some testing of the Nr 1 compressor system to see if it's cooling at all.

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Old 06-20-2009, 08:41 AM   #7
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Thudman: I take that name to imply, f105 fighter bomber [thunderchief] I was in weapons 1961/65. Sorry if I misguessed.
I am haveing trouble with my air 2003 35u adventurer, where are those capacitors located?
thanks
jw
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Old 06-20-2009, 10:47 AM   #8
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I had similar problems a couple of years ago, except with the heat. Techs in LV replaced the start caps, but still low heat. #1 wouldn't heat but #2 would. The current draw test on compressor #1 circuit showed considerable less amperage draw that #2 indicating #1 wasn't doing much. I had already noted oil on my condenser coil near the bottom right corner, so I was pretty sure I had a leak there. Showed this to techs in LV, but they wanted to replace start caps and control board again. Finally found an RV shop that would replace the condenser coil and recharge the system under the RVP warranty. 18 months later still working OK.
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Old 06-21-2009, 05:11 AM   #9
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"Finally found an RV shop that would replace the condenser coil and recharge the system under the RVP warranty. 18 months later still working OK."

Did they have to drop the unit to gain access? Any idea of what it would have cost?

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Old 06-21-2009, 05:49 PM   #10
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Thudman

My unit has been pulled four times ...twice by incompetent dealships who didn't have a clue what they were doing and failed to fix the unit, each time discovered a couple of months down the road. Each time the labor cost was $300 plus a bit.
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Old 06-21-2009, 07:14 PM   #11
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I may need to have mine pulled. Has anyone heard of a source for overhauled RVP Coleman Mach basement units? Is there such an animal? Maybe I'll call RVP in Wichita.

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Old 06-21-2009, 07:41 PM   #12
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dugit999:

Yep, I was a Thud Driver; Korat 65-66, Takhli 69-70. So you were a BB Stacker!? You guys did GREAT work!! Thanks.

The two start capacitors (black) are under a small panel cover (about 8" x 14"??) which is covered by the grated exterior panel that is hinged at the top, and lifts up. This exterior panel is at the right rear of the coach (pax side); and is fastened by a few screws on the bottom at each end.

While you have the exterior panel up, get the Model # and SN #. Those nums are on a placard on the AFT end of the unit. I needed an inspection mirror to get my nums, since the Winnie delivery docs had some errors.

Thudman
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Old 06-21-2009, 08:01 PM   #13
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Yes, they had to drop the unit. I don't remember whether I saw the total bill, but the labor was over $200. I think the labor was mostly for having to remove and solder in the condenser coil. I've removed it myself in less than 30 minutes, and about the same to re install.
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Old 06-22-2009, 05:42 AM   #14
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Thudman:
Great to know you, thanks for your service,korat 64/65 the last 3 month's of my tour was on tdy from kadena from the special weapons wing.

It has been hot here and I got my unit leveled with the slides out, I thought I would put the a/c on about 85 to keep it from getting so hot inside. I went by one day after a week and didn't see any condensate, went in and the fan was blowing and no compressor. It was about 95 inside, I lowered the set point and the compressor tried to start and then wouldn't I was pulling 9 amps with the refrig on. I shut it down and opened the top vents and let it set for a day. I went back the next day and it started back up it was pulling 16 amps. Im just running on a 30 amp circuit, I stopped running it but I wonder if I have made a mistake by trying to run it like that just to keep the temp inside from getting so high.
thanks anyone
jw
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Old 06-23-2009, 08:03 AM   #15
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dugit:

Are you sure nothing else was on line with 9 amps, other than the fridge? When I go to 30 Amps shore power, my rig pulls 1 amp residual (nothing on line) and total of 5 amps with the fridge On. So I'm able to put both A/C's on line with the remaining 25 amps. As I recall, I pull 27 to 29 amps, depending on outside temp, with the fridge and both A/C's on line.

Even with only one A/C on line, it should cool the RV a little, to bring that temp down a bit. IMO.

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Old 06-24-2009, 05:09 AM   #16
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Thudman:
The blower motor was running on the a/c with the fridge that made the 9. I was wondering if the 30ft extension cord could have made it overheat and then the compressor just quit, its a 30amp cord but that's still a lot of cord counting the rig's, I'm haven't tried it for any length of time and don't think I will try to run it that way again, I have enough built in cord to not use the extension, I just didn't pull it out of the bay. I hope the compressor hasn't been hurt. Does the built in power monitor keep that from occuring? thanks, Nice talking to a veteran of Lead Alley
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Old 06-24-2009, 07:58 AM   #17
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Dugit: As I understand it the EMS does not protect against over/under voltage situations. I have a Surge Protector for my rig that does that function. Line loss from 30 ft extension plus the built in power line (25/30') could cause a problem; but I am certainly no electrical expert. My expertise ends at the wall light switch that says "On; Off". The experts on this forum can answer your question.

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Old 06-24-2009, 12:46 PM   #18
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Quote:
I was wondering if the 30ft extension cord could have made it overheat and then the compressor just quit, its a 30amp cord but that's still a lot of cord counting the rig's
As Thudman indicated, The EMS system alone will NOT protect you from low or high voltage. We also have an aftermarket Surge Guard hardwired into our coach to protect us. I also use a digital line meter plugged into an outlet in the galley so I can be aware if the voltage is marginal. If the length of the cord and/or the power source caused enough drop in voltage, that could have caused overheating and possible damage to the a/c electronics or compressor.
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Old 06-24-2009, 06:08 PM   #19
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Dugit999, That's what the A/C is for. We run ours frequently with #2 compressor breaker off and coach unattended.

Thudman, Search for Duners write up on removing A/C. If you can't find it let me know and I can send you a cc. It's really not very difficult. Once it's out a residential A/C tech can do some troubleshooting for you. Electric does not need to be disconnected and you can run it while out of the coach.
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Old 06-24-2009, 06:58 PM   #20
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KIX:

I had previously downloaded Duner's PDF version....excellent document & pix. I'm considering my options, after a few months on the road (leaving in a few days). Thanks for the help.

Thudman
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