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Old 07-06-2010, 07:13 PM   #21
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After reading this entire thread coupled with my experience of 7 years with this system it would seem that generally the system works as advertised when all of the "problems" are addressed. Plugged drains and clogged filters are not the norm on properly functioning systems.
Instead of jumping up and down and trashing the equipment take some time to investigate. Too many owners treat this system the way they do their house system - benign neglect- and expect it to function as advertised. If the flow is low, there has to be a reason. If there is no water draining from the system, there has to be a reason. Etc, etc.... If you listen to the system when it starts up you can tell if the second compressor starts and you can see the startup on the panel (30 amp).
Like many other writers I have had no problems with two coaches over seven years. As others have done we have traveled in many climates. In Carson City last summer in 105 degree heat the system ran all day but it kept us cool. We have had the same experience in the midwest where it is not as hot but we have that humidiy thing. And I agree, it is better to get ahead of the heat. Starting the system at 1pm is not going to be as good as starting at 8am. Window awnings are better than tinted windows but having both is great. Maybe a coach does need a mod in the air return but make sure everything is working properly before reaching for the saber saw.
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Old 07-07-2010, 08:23 PM   #22
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Pleated filter too restrictive?

I replaced the filter in our coach shortly after buying it. We are the second owners. I installed a pleated filter thinking that it would be better. Now I wonder if I should go back to the spun fiberglass type filter which would allow a faster air flow? Would the cheap filter allow more air movement and keep the coach a little cooler without doing damage to the unit? Any thoughts on this? Joe
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Old 07-07-2010, 08:28 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by azloafer View Post
I replaced the filter in our coach shortly after buying it. We are the second owners. I installed a pleated filter thinking that it would be better. Now I wonder if I should go back to the spun fiberglass type filter which would allow a faster air flow? Would the cheap filter allow more air movement and keep the coach a little cooler without doing damage to the unit? Any thoughts on this? Joe
I have always used a hydrastatic filter. My filter makes a pleated filter look like a sieve.
A spun f-glass filter will stop most debris from getting into the condenser coil. You should be checking the coils every couple of years anyway to clean them.
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Old 07-07-2010, 09:15 PM   #24
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I had the unit cleaned and checked and it was up to specs. I still wonder if an increased air flow with a less restrictive filter would keep the coach a little cooler in 100+ weather. I think that I'll give it a try on the next time out. Joe
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Old 07-08-2010, 04:44 AM   #25
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Is there any way to check or clean the evaporator without removing the unit?
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Old 07-08-2010, 07:21 AM   #26
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I am taking mine in to Lodgemobile this morning to have that done, plus checked out,I dont think there is any other way to do it. I will report back on my findings.
Not looking foreward to the morning freeway traffic though.
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Old 07-08-2010, 09:23 AM   #27
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Is there any way to check or clean the evaporator without removing the unit?
If you have orangutan arms you might be able to reach one side of the evap coil through the return air plennum. But, it's only one side and it's just not practical. And that is the reason to use an efficient filter........that way it doesn't get clogged with debris to start with
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Old 07-08-2010, 11:24 AM   #28
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Don't restrict air flow...

This is information gleaned from another forum. It is not my idea, although it makes sense to me:

"I have talked MANY times to the manufacturer (who makes our air conditioners), and they specifically told me to use the CHEAPEST fiberglass spun filter you can find for the inside air return, and you should be able to "see your hand through the filter". In other words....this shouldn't be one of those pleated fancy ones. Change the filter out often. The key is to get LOTS of air flow out of the vents. Keep your fan selection on HIGH MANUAL (on all the time) and when the condenser clicks off, the fan still runs." Joe

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Old 07-08-2010, 12:29 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azloafer View Post
This is information gleaned from another forum. It is not my idea, although it makes sense to me:

"I have talked MANY times to the manufacturer (who makes our air conditioners), and they specifically told me to use the CHEAPEST fiberglass spun filter you can find for the inside air return, and you should be able to "see your hand through the filter". In other words....this shouldn't be one of those pleated fancy ones. Change the filter out often. The key is to get LOTS of air flow out of the vents. Keep your fan selection on HIGH MANUAL (on all the time) and when the condenser clicks off, the fan still runs." Joe
I recall reading that too, that's what I do. They certainly are cheap enough.
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Old 07-08-2010, 12:34 PM   #30
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As some indicate, our coach does get warmer in the driver's seat than the rest of the coach while driving with the generator & ac on, due no doubt to the glass surrounding it and the poor/missing insulation under the front cap area ...and maybe the heat of the generator below?? I try to keep the two front roof vents pointed down on the driver's seat so I get maximum cooling there. I have also found it helpful on really hot days to run the defrost fans that hang above the windshield ...they really help to circulate the air.

I was interested to read of someone enlarging the air return filter area to accomodate a 14x20 filter ...that is what ours came with from the factory.

Quote:
Check the temps of the air coming out of the roof supply registers close to the A/C. Then check the temp of the air going into the air filter. The difference should be in the 20* range.
I have read this many times, and checked my unit's performance with an infrared thermometer. I have consistently found apx 20 degree differential with one compressor running, and apx 40 degree difference with both compressors running. That is at the ceiling duct outlet vs the return air inlet ...certainly not throughout the rig. On really hot days our unit will normally keep the rig at 80 or below.

The only duct problem we have had was some leakage at the "L" turn when the outlet duct from the unit turns upward behind the cap. I had to retape that joint about 3 years ago.
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Old 07-08-2010, 02:36 PM   #31
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I just returned from Lodgemobile. They had to completly pull my AC as My freon was low and they have to find the leak.
When pulled the evap cool er on back of my unit was spotless. Even mark remarked that he can usually peel off a layer of lint.
As you can see he uses a forklift to slide thunit out on. He completly disconnected the electric, and the connection to the ductwork.
There was some bolts at the bottom. On mine he took a big screwdriver on the two top corners and kinda popped it loose. It dropped about 1 1/2 2 inches and he then slid it on to the forklift. Its big Its heavy and no way would I attempt it by myself. Maybe with a strong helper and some sturdy supports.
Once the sides are off and the guts are exposed there are two oil cups at the ends of the blower that need to be oiled. Mine hav,nt since it was new.
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Old 08-07-2010, 02:24 PM   #32
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MrTransistor,

Replaced the filter with a 14"x20"x4" MERV8 filter and compared to a see through fiberglass filter can feel no differance in the air flow between the two. I need the extra filtration of the filter because traveling with me is a feathered friend named Tom, the Aferican Gray Parrot.

The grate where the air enters the return filter in just a 3 day stay last weekend had more dust cought on it then I would have expected. Glad to know there is a good filter to catch what the grate didn't (grate was not ment to catch dust anyway).

I still cannot cool the coach down the way I'd like when it's 98* with DP in the upper 80's so I'm looking at adding a roof air through the fan opening. The big problem with this is the power run. The opening is about 10 feet foward of the power center where I should be able to bring a wire up from the breaker panel. I'm either going to have to run the cable through the curb side air duct or get real lucky trying to create a hole through the foam insulation to the fan opening from the power center area.

Point is, filter works great and is better filtration then the glass ones.
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Old 08-07-2010, 04:23 PM   #33
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My coach did something this afternoon that has never happened. The temp is 105°. The inside temp is 75°. It started out the afternoon in the 80s. When I finally finished wiring the rooftop AC I put in the ceiling vent, it finally cooled down.

I have window awnings, shades for the windshield, keep the shades drawn during the day, etc. Nothing has helped until I threw more BTUs at it. Problem solved. Winnebago blew it on this one.
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Old 08-09-2010, 07:49 PM   #34
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MrSchwarz-- I would love to hear more about your rooftop ac install. I have an 03 Journey DL and am preparing to add a rooftop unit in a few weeks. I ordered the coleman mach ps 13,500 btu. I am adding it to the opening that currently house my fantastic fan. I plan on running wire in ceiling through the same hole that currently house the 12 volt wire for the fan to behind the refrigerator, then down the back of the fridge, fish it through drawer underneath fridge to under shower base, through under kitchen sink base, through wall then to bedroom where i will cover with wire mold and run to breaker box. Any insights or tips? I would really appreciate them.
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Old 08-09-2010, 08:17 PM   #35
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I didn't run a new wire. I fished the wire from the opening to the AC duct. I went back to directly above the one place panel. The wire is coming directly out of the ceiling, but I will be concealing it down the bathroom wall. I connected it to the same circuit as the engine block heater. The instructions call for a 20-amp circuit and the block heater is only 15-amps. When the AC is on high, it may pop the breaker. When its on low it runs all day. It is so loud on high, that I doubt I'll ever use it on high. If it becomes a problem, I'll have to run a heavier wire (or cheat and use a heavier breaker).

I am also thinking about switching the circuit around so that I can back feed the AC from the outlet in the electrical bay. That way, when I only have a 30-amp connection, I can run the rooftop AC from the 20-amp circuit. I haven't worked out how to make it work yet.
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Old 08-09-2010, 08:29 PM   #36
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what kind of ac did you install?
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