basement ac problem

jdsr · 05-25-2008, 04:43 AM

here are the facts.Outside air temp is about 83,room temp is 78 at best, supply temp is 60.8, return temp is75.5. with everything cut off the ac is pulling 22-23 amps. The filter and coil is clean. The duct is entact and air flow out of vents is good. hardly no one wants to work on these units.The last time I had it worked on the shop worked with rvp tech for over a week. they got it to cool but didnt know what fixed it.Between the brakes failing 3 times and this ac breaking at least 3 times, Im ready to get rid of it. any ideas on how to fix and what would a new unit cost. I found a shop to sell a scratch and dent one for 750.00 but I dont think rvp or coleman would warr it. any help would be app.

jdsr · 05-25-2008, 04:43 AM

here are the facts.Outside air temp is about 83,room temp is 78 at best, supply temp is 60.8, return temp is75.5. with everything cut off the ac is pulling 22-23 amps. The filter and coil is clean. The duct is entact and air flow out of vents is good. hardly no one wants to work on these units.The last time I had it worked on the shop worked with rvp tech for over a week. they got it to cool but didnt know what fixed it.Between the brakes failing 3 times and this ac breaking at least 3 times, Im ready to get rid of it. any ideas on how to fix and what would a new unit cost. I found a shop to sell a scratch and dent one for 750.00 but I dont think rvp or coleman would warr it. any help would be app.

jdsr · 05-25-2008, 04:53 AM

I've made a new topic with a change in the title adding basement ac problems instead of basement problems with hopes in getting some help. I've read through pages of searched info but no answers.If the site adm reads this they can remove the other post.

AFChap · 05-25-2008, 05:55 PM

I've not had any trouble finding someone willing to work on my unit. I HAVE had problems finding someone competent to correctly diagnose & repair problems. I've had good luck finding a tech who can resolve problems by checking either the RVP website for a service location near the zip code where I am, OR by calling the factory and asking them to refer me to a competent tech in my area.

Another possibility would be to find a home a/c repair guy in your area who is willing to look at it. They are very similar to motel & home units. If I did that, I would open up the compartment to get him access. All the electronics are available behind an easily removed access panel.

The unit would require removal only if a compressor or blower motor is bad. Since you are pulling 22-23 amp, it sounds like both compressor stages are running. If you have no squalling noise on startup and/or while running, both blower motors are likely ok.

These units are sealed and are supposed to never need the freon level checked. However, I have read of a few people having their unit altered to allow the to check and/or add coolant.

KIX · 05-26-2008, 05:09 AM

A temp difference between return and supply of 15 - 20* is normal and indicates AC is working properly. If your supply temp is about 60* but the inside temp is closer to 80* I don't think the AC is your problem. I think the ability of the RV to contain that temp and repel outside temp intrusino is the problem. Some things that affect cool down ability is before an AC unit lowers the temps appreciably it removes humidity. That is the water draining from the AC evaporator coil. Every time a door, window or vent is opened in a humid climate it quickly adds to the inside humidity the AC has to remove. Another factor is the insulation in the walls and ceilings. I'm not sure of the R value of it but I feel sure that it is not what is usual in a stick house. Another "trick" is to close slides it initially cool the RV. When the reduced volume has cooled then open the slides back up.
As far as service to the unit I have found excellent troubleshooting guides on RVP's website. I hope all this will help you with the AC problem.

jdsr · 05-28-2008, 01:59 PM

most ac people want to walk up to the unit and start working on it. they dont want the hassle of pulling the unit out, undoing the supply duct, ect, ect, before they can start to trouble shoot it. My friend who was parked next site over was 50 degrees coming out of his supply. he has rooftop units and has no trouble cooling his mh. He has 3 slides and his unit was cutting on and off all day while mine was running all day. He only had 1 unit running while both my comp were running all day. I've had more problems with this mh and chassis than I have ever had with any mh combined. It must have been built on a monday.If or when I can afford to get another mh I will be alot smarter this time.

Mooneypaul · 05-28-2008, 03:41 PM

Are you absolutly sure the duct running up the rear cap is not leaking? I just had an almost exactly same problem. We found the duct separated about 3 feet up inside the rear cap.
Check to see if there is any cold air up inside the rear cap.

jdsr · 05-29-2008, 08:51 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Mooneypaul:
Are you absolutly sure the duct running up the rear cap is not leaking? I just had an almost exactly same problem. We found the duct separated about 3 feet up inside the rear cap.
Check to see if there is any cold air up inside the rear cap. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>As sure as I can be. I looked under it with a flashlight and everything seems to be ok. I dont know who designed this but they must have been off there rocker. How would you repair that duct? I talked to keith at rvp and this is the info he gave me. Never use a amp reading from the ems. It MUST be taken from the unit itself. We should be getting 20- 25 degrees diff, not 15-20. He also said they would not warrenty any unit sold on the internet as new but scratch and dent. I would like to know who sells these units and their costs. He could not answer that. Like I said, the next time I hope Im smarter. winn and workhorse, if you are reading this you should stand up and take notice. Im not the only one out there having problems and we will cast our vote with our dollors.

jdsr · 05-29-2008, 03:04 PM

Paul, I think you are right. I looked again with a super duper flashlight and I see the tape coming off the duct and I can feel the cold air there. After doing some research I found that winn has had problems with this design. So much so that they changed it in 2006 I'm told. I called Winn to see If they would offer some help since I have had problems since day 1 but that was a waste of time. Does anyone know how to repair this other than taking off the rear cap? How hard is it to take off rear cap?

j griff · 05-30-2008, 11:45 AM

jdsr,
If you are a contortionist you may be able to reach the separated sections of duct. On my Adventurer 33v the separation of the two sections was about three feet up from the elbow where the ducting comes out of the unit. I managed to get up in there far enough to just barely reach the separation and apply several layers of aluminum tape around three sides of the duct (fourth side up against rear interior wall of MH). I also put some strips of toilet paper on the end of a fishing rod and with a strong spot light looked for any additional air leaks. Fortunately I did not find any more as I certainly could not have reached any further up. I did read that someone was able to put tape on a stick and apply it that way. Not sure how much pressure one could get on it to ensure a good seal. Anyway - hope this helps.
Happy Trails !!

AFChap · 05-30-2008, 06:08 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">most ac people want to walk up to the unit and start working on it. they dont want the hassle of pulling the unit out, undoing the supply duct, ect, ect, before they can start to trouble shoot it. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Any competent tech should be able to trouble shoot the unit WITHOUT REMOVING IT. All the electronics are available behind a metal panel after you open the door. Only if everything else checks out should they have to remove it, and that would mean replacement of a blower motor or compressor.

talotto · 06-07-2008, 05:17 AM

Has anyone had the duct separate up above the point where the duct splits (just above the engine access door)? I had the rear duct split problem yesterday (cost me $90 to get fixed), separated about 3 feet above where it comes out of the AC unit. We were able to take off a panel just inside the engine access point on the right side and taped the duct back together. My concern now is whether I'll have the same problem higher up where you can't get to it without taking the rear cap off.

Based on the discussions in this forum, and others, this is a known problem. The service tech called Coleman tech support and they led him right to the problem after finding out it was a Winne.

2004 Itasca Meridian 36G
Currently in South Padre Island, TX

Tony

John_Canfield · 06-07-2008, 05:34 AM

Haven't heard of that, but I have heard about the plastic "Y" splitting. I suspect that entire duct run could be a victim of the tape coming loose. On my '05 I haven't had that problem, so maybe the factory corrected some duct issues by the time our coach came through Big Bertha.