Basement A/C question-need help!

[Izzyblueye]

Just returned from a trip of a week out. Started week with both compressors on A/C working normally. Mid week in 90 degree temp, #2 compressor would not engage. Checked breaker it is OK. Dialed thermostat down 10 degrees from ambient, still #2 would not engage. Voltage 115-120 and steady. Where should I began to look first or recommend to dealer as a check point? Incidentally, just one compressor running did a great job of keeping coach cool, but had to run constantly. Thanks in advance for any suggestions and input.

[Izzyblueye]

Just returned from a trip of a week out. Started week with both compressors on A/C working normally. Mid week in 90 degree temp, #2 compressor would not engage. Checked breaker it is OK. Dialed thermostat down 10 degrees from ambient, still #2 would not engage. Voltage 115-120 and steady. Where should I began to look first or recommend to dealer as a check point? Incidentally, just one compressor running did a great job of keeping coach cool, but had to run constantly. Thanks in advance for any suggestions and input.

[ISLAPP]

The unit is made by www.rvcomfort.com
You have a run capacitor, a start capacitor and a starting device. Go to the web site and look up the diagram and parts numbers for those item. Then call their tech line at 316-832-4357 and ask them how to go about checking to see which item is probably the cause. Hopefully it is not a compressor problem.
Mine is in the shop as we speak. Compressor 2 would run but not function properly. I thought it was out of freon. They determined some other problem with compressor 2 besides the freon issue. I also have a bad themostat cause it wont switch from heat pump to furnace when needed. I am surprised your compressor 1 kept the rig cool. Mine was worthless. So a whole new unit is on its way.
Big bucks, good thing I have an extended warranty.
Mike

[rvten]

Mine just dies today also. Same thing #2 will not start.

I had #1 compressor replaced last year. Parts were cheap ($350)Labor was a hold up! ($700.0)

I could install a new roof A/C for less than that.

No high amp draw. 20/22 when both comp's were working. #1 is drawing 12, but not cooling much at all. Have to wait till we get home to get it worked on. Hit the road Friday for home.

[Izzyblueye]

RVten: $700.00 labor is really high it seems to me. However, at $100.00 an hour or more it does not take long. You are right you could install a whole new unit on top for that. I do love the basement A/C though. I normally pull 16 amps on #1 then 26 amps on two. It seems that #2 tries to start, but can't get going, then drops out altogether. I was truly amazed how well #1 kept the coach cool on its own, but like I said, it never shut off until evening.
I have been given some good advice so far on this post and will have something in mind when I take it to the dealer.

[ISLAPP]

When I first noticed something funny about compressor 2 was last summer. We noticed it was only pulling about 3 amps. Funny thing was that is did a pretty good job of cooling the rig. According to the manufacturer, it was probably totatlly out of freon or very close to it and most just the compressor running. They said turn it off at the power panel(compressor 2 only) until I could get it looked at. Compressor 1 by itself was worthless even in 75 degree weather.
So when the dealer looked at it, they saw something wrong with compressor 2 beside no freon. He didnt elaborate on the problem. The cost to repair compressor 2 and replace the thermostat was 1800.00. A complete new unit installed was about 2000.00 and comes with a 2 year warranty. I will pay the difference if the warranty company doesnt to get the complete new unit. I personally think something is wrong with my compressor 1 also as to why it couldnt keep things cool in 75 degree weather.
Mike

[Dgold2]

Been there...done that! On our 2002 Journey, it was the #1 compressor. Compressor was $350.00, and R/R was performed by my neighbor who does commercial HVAC work. Labor ended up being $85.00, as he was in and out in 1 hour.

I did the removal and re-install, which took several hours. Upon removal, I found that when the unit was originally installed, the foam seal on the duct work for cool air out was not in place, and therefore I was loosing cool air to the atmosphere. At the same time, I found that my duct work going up from the unit behind the rear cap had separated at the taped seam.

After the compressor was replaced, and re-installed properly, and the duct work was re-taped, it actually works very well.

Back to your question. The electrical components are very accessible, as the cover is hinged and will swing up to gain access to the electrical cabinet. If you are handy with a multi-meter, after downloading the manual from the Rvcomfort, you may be able to determine what the issue is. Hopefully it is not the compressor.

There surely seems to be a lot of issues with the compressors that they use in these units. Mine was a Tecumseh compressor. Hopefully your repair will be something minor.

While you are at it, you may want to take a look at your duct work to make sure that it is still sealed. When I was repairing mine, I used an IR w/laser sight non-contact thermometer to make sure I had repaired all the leaks.

Good luck!
Dgold2

[JB Texas]

Common problem is corrosion in the wiring on the relays. Corrosion causes the wiring to overheat and separate. I just fixed the same problem by replacing 3 wires in the control board area. The relays are located in the upper right corner of the box and very easy to get to. I would check this first before taking it in for an expensive repair.

[lakewoodpaul]

Had the same problem on my 03. Turned out to be a high resistance connection at the pc board in the access box. the board was not getting a 12v feed from the stat. Just had to crimp the male pin to correct. There is awiring diagram on the cover of the box. Both compressors need a signal at seperate pins to run. Also you may want to lok at the start capacitor for #2 comp. I lost one of those also Cheap and easy fix

[rvten]

As an update here. When I turn on the A/C. The #1 comp. starts fine with a 10/12 amp draw. Than #2 kicks in amp jump up to about 20. Than back to 10. SO I see #2 starts but will not keep running. Hope it is something simple this time. May have to have #1 comp recharged.

[rvten]

Update on Repairs.

Home heating & cooling tech came to house today to fix our MH A/C.

Opened up the A/C doors.Looked inside the elettricl box. BURNT wire's. Burnt right off, ground and another wire at the conn. lug. All is working well again.

[NeilV]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by rvten:
Update on Repairs.

Home heating & cooling tech came to house today to fix our MH A/C.

Opened up the A/C doors.Looked inside the elettricl box. BURNT wire's. Burnt right off, ground and another wire at the conn. lug. All is working well again. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Are you having regular brown outs? Low voltage did a job on my basement air until I installed a Hughs Autoformer. No more burnt wires/components since.

[Izzyblueye]

rvten: Thanks for posting back on A/C. I have had the same thing happen. Cause could not be determined. I use a surge guard. I am about to take mine in for diagnosis, hope it is as simple as yours. It ran a full year or better after wire burn off and replacement. Really appreciate your post back.

[rvten]

No brown outs where we were. Could have been just loose wireing that arced and burnt. Funny thow. We sat in our daughter drive way for 2 months. Only time I moved MH was to go dump the tanks about every week and a half. $76.00 repair bill.

Also I do not beleave in the Autoformer. Feel it causes a problem for everyone on that electrical supply line. But that is another subject for a different post.