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Old 01-30-2012, 08:37 AM   #21
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In 2005 and similar units, the thermostat controls which unit runs. When the temp drops below set temp in electric mode, the thermostat turns on the heatpump. If the heat pump cannot keep up, it will also turn on the gas at about 4 degrees colder, but will keep the heat pump running. The heat pump has a thermistor in the condenser (outside) coil that turns off the heat pump if it reaches 17 degrees. This can happen at different outside temps. When we were in the east with high humidity, the coil would ice up restricting air flow and turn off the heat pump at anywhere from 38-42 degrees. Out here in AZ with no humidity, I've seen it run down to 28 degrees.
Anyway, when the heat pump 'freezes up', it turns off a signal to the thermostat (grey wires I think). At that point, the LP will come on, if not before because of temp differential.
Soooo.
1. Verify connections to the thermostat, making sure the grey wires are connected. If they are disconnected, it would make the thermostat think the heat pump is frozen up.
2. There are two white wires going to the thermostat, one comes from the 3 wire set for the LP furnace, the other in the 9 wire set from the HP. If you manually apply 12V to the white wire going to the HP, it should turn on (without the thermostat's knowledge). If the HP runs now, this would seem to indicate a defective thermostat.
3. With all the wires hooked up to the thermostat and it set in HP mode and room temp below set temp, check continuity on the grey wires. If open, either wiring or HP control board (freeze relay). Also check at the connection to the control board in the HP. If open here, this may indicate a defective HP control board.
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Old 01-30-2012, 08:40 AM   #22
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Also, check the wiring diagrams here:

Wiring Diagrams
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Old 01-31-2012, 01:06 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Madrona View Post
I have a 2003 Itasca Horizon 32TD with the basment heat pump. The way it is supposed to work, and has always worked, is you set a temp at the One Place panel and select Electric Heat. If the heat pump can work (above 36 degrees, I believe) it does, if not, because it's colder, the gas furnace kicks in.

Where should I look next?
Madrona, can you confirm that the outside temp was above 40 deg when you were testing for the operation? There is a temp sensor in the outside coils that will cut off operation until the temp increases high enough so they cut back in (which might be around 4 deg warmer than cutout temp) . Also as mentioned earlier, if the Coleman Mach thermostat makes 3 attemps, it will timeout for a long period of time, maybe more than 2 hours....I'm thinking 4 hours. So when that happens it can really fool you into thinking it's broke.....when it's just protecting itself. If it's in lockout, I believe the display shows something other than a temp.

Good luck,
Bill
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Old 01-31-2012, 06:39 AM   #24
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If it turns out that your board is damaged you might want to consider getting a Surge Guard or similar device to protect you when the power is going up and down. It will save you a bunch of money in the end.
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Old 01-31-2012, 06:50 AM   #25
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mine wont go on when it is 40 or lower. plus mine will not work on 20 amp needs at least 30 amp. will yours start of the gen?
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Old 02-01-2012, 10:03 AM   #26
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Thank you all for your excellent tips and advice. I haven't had a chance to get back to tracing the problem, but hopefully will soon. I'll let everyone know how it comes out.
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Old 02-02-2012, 06:44 PM   #27
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mine wont go on when it is 40 or lower. plus mine will not work on 20 amp needs at least 30 amp. will yours start of the gen?
Same with mine. I was under the impression that the input amperage needs to be at least 30a to work properly with power sharing since both compressors are on. Try it on generator if the temps are right.
Richard
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Old 02-02-2012, 06:55 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by jettyjock View Post
normally electric heat means strip heaters, or sometimes called emergency heat. If you have strip heaters there should be a seperate circuit breaker for it. A heat pump has a valve, when put in heat mode makes the freon bo backwards from cooling mode. When it comes on you will hear the valve shifting.
I have yet to see or hear of an RV heat pump that has heat strips or have them added. The "emergency heat" is the propane furnace.
A home heat pump can have heat strips in them or a regular furnace added. In our stick house we had a heat pump with emergency electric heat. We could also have had a gas furnace in place of the elec heat.
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Old 02-03-2012, 02:57 PM   #29
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Same with mine. I was under the impression that the input amperage needs to be at least 30a to work properly with power sharing since both compressors are on. Try it on generator if the temps are right.
Richard
I agree with your assessment. The first compressor draws about 22 amps at startup Then draws 16-18 amps while running. When the second compressor kicks in the amp draw spikes to about 32 amps momentarily then settles down to 24 - 26 amps with both compressors running.
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Old 02-03-2012, 11:29 PM   #30
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I agree with your assessment. The first compressor draws about 22 amps at startup Then draws 16-18 amps while running. When the second compressor kicks in the amp draw spikes to about 32 amps momentarily then settles down to 24 - 26 amps with both compressors running.
Well, I don't know what to think. OP here. As I said, I've been running the heat pump on the 12 guage extension cord for a few months. Never an issue. Of course, everything else drops out of the equation when the HP starts up, but it all works normally. I do believe only one side of the HP is running, however, but that seems to be enough to keep the coach at about the 52 degrees I've set it at.

Today, I went out to the coach. Nothing was running at the time. It was about 55 degrees outside, 52 inside. I turned off the heat system, completely, waited about 3 minutes and turned it back on. Then I adjusted the temp to 54 degrees and the heat pump started. I lowered the temp setting to 52 and the heat pump shut down. I guess it's a self-healing system. No other explanation available at this time. I will keep an eye on it, but based on it's history of working day in and day out, I'm thinkin' it's fixed.

Thanks to everyone for their thoughts and opinions.
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Old 02-04-2012, 03:47 PM   #31
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[QUOTE=Madrona;1074178]Well, I don't know what to think. OP here. As I said, I've been running the heat pump on the 12 guage extension cord for a few months. Never an issue. Of course, everything else drops out of the equation when the HP starts up, but it all works normally. I do believe only one side of the HP is running, however, but that seems to be enough to keep the coach at about the 52 degrees I've set it at.

Today, I went out to the coach. Nothing was running at the time. It was about 55 degrees outside, 52 inside. I turned off the heat system, completely, waited about 3 minutes and turned it back on. Then I adjusted the temp to 54 degrees and the heat pump started. I lowered the temp setting to 52 and the heat pump shut down. I guess it's a self-healing system. No other explanation available at this time. I will keep an eye on it, but based on it's history of working day in and day out, I'm thinkin' it's fixed.

Here's what my owners manual says about the heat pump. "The system is designed to automatically start the furnace when the temp falls to 5 degrees or more below set point with pump running..... If the outside temp falls below 36 degrees, the heat pump will be disabled and the furnace will turn on....If the furnace must assist the heat pump three times in a row, the pump will be disabled for 2 hours. After 2 hrs the pump will try again to be the primary heat source

I don't know how much more complicated it can get-good luck
Richard
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Old 02-05-2012, 06:05 AM   #32
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Even a 20 amp circuit will allow you to over draw the rated amount of current for a breif period. Under ideal conditions you may only be drawing 22 amps for a second or so. I would check all the connections from the outlet through the transfer switch. I would bet that somewhere along the line you have at least 1 marginal connection that on occasion produces enough resistance to up the current draw to a point where the monitor shuts the system down.

I would include in your inspection removing the faceplate on the outlet to look for burned or loose wires. Remove the cover on the transfer switch and make sure all wires are secure. I would also inspect the plug and socket ends of your extension cord and coach power cord. If the contact blades aren't bright and shinny they may be producing enough resistance to shut you down. Keep in mind all the resistance doesn't necessarily have to be in 1 connection. It can be cumulative.
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