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Old 01-28-2012, 12:33 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by two2go View Post
If you have more than 4 deg. between the thermostat air temperature and the set temperature, the furnace will come on rather than the heat pump. That's the way my unit works, anyway. I'm also surprised your unit will run on 20 amps. Mine won't unless I'm on 30 amps minimum.
On mine, and I'm pretty sure yours also, heat pump AND furnace will come on if more than 4 degrees of rise are called for.
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Old 01-28-2012, 02:34 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by ernieh View Post
On mine, and I'm pretty sure yours also, heat pump AND furnace will come on if more than 4 degrees of rise are called for.
That's true, but if the outside temperature is below the minimum the sensor will allow the heat pump to work only the gas furnace will run.
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Old 01-28-2012, 04:38 PM   #17
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Our coach is a little older than the 2003 model and we have a red reset button in electrical box of our basement air. If you have problems with intermittent power, the compressor might have kicked out on high pressure. Here is a pic of the reset button in the upper right. Newer coaches don't have this reset button.


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Old 01-29-2012, 10:37 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by ernieh View Post
On mine, and I'm pretty sure yours also, heat pump AND furnace will come on if more than 4 degrees of rise are called for.
Winnebago applications may be different. On my Dolphin according to the manual and in practice, if the heat pump cannot satisfy the thermostat call (more than 4 deg. inside difference or below 38 deg. outside), the gas furnace becomes the primary heat source and the heat pump is locked out. There is a counter in the logic board, and if the call is bypassed to the furnace three times in succession, the heat pump is locked out for 2 hours. That is unlikely because the inside temperature would have to continue to drop while the heat pump is running.

In practice, I jump out of bed on a cold morning and set the thermostat carefully not more than 4 degrees above the indicated temp. and the heat pump comes on. Since the unit is under the bed, the cat panics and jumps off which wakes the DW who starts cursing me both for the cat jumping off her and the noise of the A/C unit under her. I ignore both, make coffee, and keep tweaking the thermostat up to maintain a 4 deg. separation until the desired room temp is achieved. Once both of us have had our coffee and the cat has had her kibbles, peace is restored and all is well until the next morning. I do this to conserve propane, and because I can.
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Old 01-29-2012, 12:31 PM   #19
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I have added a switch on the pigtail to the LP furnace from the t-stat, which allows me to raise the set point without the gas furnace ever coming on. Originally installed to keep our bikes safe, our furnace is right above our hitch.
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Old 01-29-2012, 04:20 PM   #20
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In real cold weather we use cube heater sitting on the table in the kitchen. Let whatever else help it out.
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Old 01-30-2012, 09:37 AM   #21
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In 2005 and similar units, the thermostat controls which unit runs. When the temp drops below set temp in electric mode, the thermostat turns on the heatpump. If the heat pump cannot keep up, it will also turn on the gas at about 4 degrees colder, but will keep the heat pump running. The heat pump has a thermistor in the condenser (outside) coil that turns off the heat pump if it reaches 17 degrees. This can happen at different outside temps. When we were in the east with high humidity, the coil would ice up restricting air flow and turn off the heat pump at anywhere from 38-42 degrees. Out here in AZ with no humidity, I've seen it run down to 28 degrees.
Anyway, when the heat pump 'freezes up', it turns off a signal to the thermostat (grey wires I think). At that point, the LP will come on, if not before because of temp differential.
Soooo.
1. Verify connections to the thermostat, making sure the grey wires are connected. If they are disconnected, it would make the thermostat think the heat pump is frozen up.
2. There are two white wires going to the thermostat, one comes from the 3 wire set for the LP furnace, the other in the 9 wire set from the HP. If you manually apply 12V to the white wire going to the HP, it should turn on (without the thermostat's knowledge). If the HP runs now, this would seem to indicate a defective thermostat.
3. With all the wires hooked up to the thermostat and it set in HP mode and room temp below set temp, check continuity on the grey wires. If open, either wiring or HP control board (freeze relay). Also check at the connection to the control board in the HP. If open here, this may indicate a defective HP control board.
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Old 01-30-2012, 09:40 AM   #22
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Also, check the wiring diagrams here:

Wiring Diagrams
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Old 01-31-2012, 02:06 AM   #23
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I have a 2003 Itasca Horizon 32TD with the basment heat pump. The way it is supposed to work, and has always worked, is you set a temp at the One Place panel and select Electric Heat. If the heat pump can work (above 36 degrees, I believe) it does, if not, because it's colder, the gas furnace kicks in.

Where should I look next?
Madrona, can you confirm that the outside temp was above 40 deg when you were testing for the operation? There is a temp sensor in the outside coils that will cut off operation until the temp increases high enough so they cut back in (which might be around 4 deg warmer than cutout temp) . Also as mentioned earlier, if the Coleman Mach thermostat makes 3 attemps, it will timeout for a long period of time, maybe more than 2 hours....I'm thinking 4 hours. So when that happens it can really fool you into thinking it's broke.....when it's just protecting itself. If it's in lockout, I believe the display shows something other than a temp.

Good luck,
Bill
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Old 01-31-2012, 07:39 AM   #24
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If it turns out that your board is damaged you might want to consider getting a Surge Guard or similar device to protect you when the power is going up and down. It will save you a bunch of money in the end.
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Old 01-31-2012, 07:50 AM   #25
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mine wont go on when it is 40 or lower. plus mine will not work on 20 amp needs at least 30 amp. will yours start of the gen?
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Old 02-01-2012, 11:03 AM   #26
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Thank you all for your excellent tips and advice. I haven't had a chance to get back to tracing the problem, but hopefully will soon. I'll let everyone know how it comes out.
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Old 02-02-2012, 07:44 PM   #27
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mine wont go on when it is 40 or lower. plus mine will not work on 20 amp needs at least 30 amp. will yours start of the gen?
Same with mine. I was under the impression that the input amperage needs to be at least 30a to work properly with power sharing since both compressors are on. Try it on generator if the temps are right.
Richard
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Old 02-02-2012, 07:55 PM   #28
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normally electric heat means strip heaters, or sometimes called emergency heat. If you have strip heaters there should be a seperate circuit breaker for it. A heat pump has a valve, when put in heat mode makes the freon bo backwards from cooling mode. When it comes on you will hear the valve shifting.
I have yet to see or hear of an RV heat pump that has heat strips or have them added. The "emergency heat" is the propane furnace.
A home heat pump can have heat strips in them or a regular furnace added. In our stick house we had a heat pump with emergency electric heat. We could also have had a gas furnace in place of the elec heat.
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