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Old 03-21-2006, 03:27 PM   #1
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I've noticed that when our bedroom slide is being extended the bottom moves out about 2" before the top starts to move. It then continues out with the bottom canted out until it reaches the stop. The top then continues out until it it seals. Going in works inversely - top starts in first, followed by bottom, top seals first, bottom continues in until it also seals.

For those not familiar with this floorplan, this slide is just a wardrobe and drawer unit that moves straight in and out. No "flat floor" or anything complicated like the dinette/couch slide up front.

It's working OK (for now) and Winnie says it's OK, but I'm concerned about the extra stress on the system. Particularly when it comes in and the whole box is being levered up by the top of the slide being against of the RV while the hydralics continue to suck in the bottom.

Has anybody else noticed this or does your slide just go in and out with the top and bottom equal distance from the side of the RV?
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Old 03-21-2006, 03:27 PM   #2
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I've noticed that when our bedroom slide is being extended the bottom moves out about 2" before the top starts to move. It then continues out with the bottom canted out until it reaches the stop. The top then continues out until it it seals. Going in works inversely - top starts in first, followed by bottom, top seals first, bottom continues in until it also seals.

For those not familiar with this floorplan, this slide is just a wardrobe and drawer unit that moves straight in and out. No "flat floor" or anything complicated like the dinette/couch slide up front.

It's working OK (for now) and Winnie says it's OK, but I'm concerned about the extra stress on the system. Particularly when it comes in and the whole box is being levered up by the top of the slide being against of the RV while the hydralics continue to suck in the bottom.

Has anybody else noticed this or does your slide just go in and out with the top and bottom equal distance from the side of the RV?
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Old 03-21-2006, 04:06 PM   #3
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I have questioned the same kind of movement in our large galley/lounge slide, and have been told by at least two dealers now "that is normal."
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Old 03-21-2006, 05:43 PM   #4
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That is so the bottom inside edge of the slide won't drag while it is moving so I have been told.

Regards,

Neil
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Old 03-22-2006, 01:47 AM   #5
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Hi Tom;
Must be normal because my 10 year old Adventurer does the same thing and I have never had a problem with it. OH NO...Knock on wood! I may have jinxed myself now.
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Old 03-22-2006, 02:02 AM   #6
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Thanks Paul, Neil, and Fred & Wilma. Guess I better relax and stop trying to create a problem!
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Old 03-22-2006, 05:57 AM   #7
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Tom, My bedroom slide does just the opposite, with the top sealing first, then the bottom seal.
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Old 03-23-2006, 03:30 PM   #8
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Your answer is an email or phone call away....

Bryan Funke,a Winnebago Service Lead,is on these forums most every day and even in chat.

For two weeks now he has offered his email address to chat members,yet as far as I know has not been taken up on it...

I know this because I am having an issue with my coach and have successfully traded emails with him for several days....

Try it,you might like it!!

Owner Relations email address-- [email protected]

Service Administration-... 1-800-537-1885

Bryan's email.... [email protected]
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Old 03-23-2006, 04:41 PM   #9
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Maybe I can help with a brief description of how the HWH systems typically operate.

The concerns expressed here are very common with folks that have never had the opportunity to get an overview of their systems, so here goes.

HWH maufacturers several different types slide acuations using single, double, and four cylinder configurations. What is being described is called the cantilevering of the slide box which is typical with single and double cylinder configuration and does not represent any irregular operation. It operates with this behavior because the cylinders are located at the bottom of the room, and as you might imagine when they are initiated it takes a little travel of the bottom of the slide to start, what is best described as "dragging" the upper section. It is within the design of the room, as well as the HWH mechanism. When four cylinders are used it simple places a cylinder at each corner of the room and when they are initiated, all four drive their respective corners together eliminating any lag time from top to bottom.

There are also variations of the four cylinder configuration in which there are chains used to operate the upper corners and the chain, a patented design of HWH is actually pushed and pulled for the different directions of actuation, i.e. in and out.

Further, HWH uses a method of hydraulic pressurization that is called regenerative. In this style of energy system, BOTH lines to the hydraulic cylinder are pressured with varying amounts of pressure. When an "in" motion is called for, one side is high and one side of the cylinder is lower pressure; when the "out" is called for, they are reversed. This is something that many people do not understand and as such presents a potential spill condition as both lines are under continious pressure; don't loosen one without opening the solenoids first and all pressure to disipate.

This is also something to remember in that if your room is creeping out during transit, it is virtually always traceable to a solenoid valve either not being closed at the manual lock nut, or it being a defective valve. My bet would be to check the 1/4" lock nut on the solenoid or the "T" handle. FYI, most of the hydraulic tanks now come with a cap that you have to remove to fill the tank. It is worth your time to remove the cap, turn it over, and look at it. You will most likely see a 1/4" hex that is designed to be used as a wrench for your solenoid lock nuts.


Hope this helps.

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Old 03-23-2006, 05:04 PM   #10
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Great Explanation

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Old 03-23-2006, 05:19 PM   #11
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Thanks MIKE for your explaination it should put this to rest. "007"
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Old 03-23-2006, 05:27 PM   #12
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Thank you Mike....again and again.
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Old 03-23-2006, 05:28 PM   #13
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Thanks, Mike. That's "kinda" what Winnie told me, but not nearly as clearly as your explanation.
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Old 03-23-2006, 05:33 PM   #14
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You're more than welcome.

If there is anything else that I can do, just let me know.

BTW there is one other term used in discussions about slides and it is "walking". This is a condition in which the one end outruns the other, i.e. the front end may start moving before the rear end does or just the opposite. HWH typically will state the up to 2" of walking is within acceptable limits, but I have found that when it exceeds 1" there is a problem developing with the syncro cylinder and needs to be looked at. It's nothing too difficult to resolve, and typically doesn't happen too much any more, but thought I'd mention it anyway.



Thanks,
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Old 03-24-2006, 05:07 AM   #15
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The RVGuy,

Great explanation - thanks. I now think I understand more than I probably should

One additional question - where is the fluid fill resevoir? I have a couple of small slide hydrolic leaks and suspect that this just may be part of my bedroom slide problem. Worth checking anyway.
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Old 03-24-2006, 06:02 AM   #16
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Adrain: I had a bedroom slide hydraulic small leak when my coach was new. The seal in one ram was leaking and dripped when closed. This was a quick warranty change out. The only request from the repair center was to provide them the model number of the HWH ram so they would have the correct size available for me.

Also the fluid reservoir is under your entry steps, via single bolt mid step. You will be told that regular ATF trans oil is OK (it is red) but, use HWH hydraulic fluid which is clear. If you ever have a leak to the inside the clear fluid will not be an issue like the red would be. I had my local rv dealer order out HWH hydraulic fluid, about $3 a QT, I have one one hand just in case me or someone needs a top off. Good info from everyone on this topic, thanks..
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Old 03-24-2006, 06:37 AM   #17
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Gary,

Thanks a lot adn I will see about getting the HWH fluid today.
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