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Old 03-21-2016, 05:41 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ7ole View Post
I did run Eternabond all along the cap at the roof last fall. Need to recheck at the gutter though.
It is a shameful design by Winnebago both on the roof and window design. A design that abound with failures over and over. Make sure the weep holes are clear by running a paper clip or similar object to clear out debris. They knew they had a problem when they made drain holes for water.

In a previous thread I illustrated the problem with the roof gutter leakage and my repair. My cousin has a 30' sightseer and he recently used 3m 5200 to seal the roof to gutter lap. The steel channel can accumulate a substantial amount of water through the little seam along the entire length of the MH.
also see - http://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/leak...ld-186464.html
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Old 03-22-2016, 02:24 PM   #22
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As expected, the glass guy said the problem was with a rusty pinch weld (presumably where the vertical and horizontal channel came together) that could only be fixed by a body shop. He gooped it up with urethane but obviously that did not work. We was supposed to call me back with the name of a body shop but never did. GlassFast in Bradenton FL is off my list, the previous GlassFast guy was from Sarasota and I would call him again. He seemed much more experienced.

I called Campbell RV in Sarasota as they advertise RV body work including windshield repair. They would need the RV in their shop with a full windshield removal to even give me an estimate, and they would need the rig for two weeks. Not happening, I am on vacation baby!

So back to the DIY fix. I pulled the top rubber seal and side aluminum molding. I cut and pulled any extra loose urethane from my previous fix at the corner and with a new $27 tube of 3M 08609 proceeded pump it into any gaps, including a bead from the top of the glass to the bottom of the plastic u-channel. Then I caulked the cap to side seam per Johndale using Dicor non-leveling lap sealant. I checked the drip hole in the aluminum channel per ladagobago, it was clear. ( I hadn’t been noticing a problem when I stop). I just ordered a 10 foot x 2 inch strip of Eternabond per Corvettec3 (http://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/leak...-186464-3.html) which will go on tomorrow to seal the top rubber trim to the cap before it rains this weekend.

If it still leaks with the next rain I will use up the rest of the Dicor and 3M sealants on the doors, add a few float toys and a heater and use it as a hot tub on wheels.
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Old 03-22-2016, 03:06 PM   #23
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Soooo----Here I sit with passenger side leaking. Clear not rusty water. Is there a final answer to the problem?
Guess I can answer my own question. NOPE!!!!!
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Old 03-22-2016, 08:07 PM   #24
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A few pics from my fix today, a bit of trimming to do, then replace the rubber and trim, then tape the top of the rubber.

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Old 03-22-2016, 09:06 PM   #25
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I don't know if there is a good fix for this problem. Both of mine leaked badly on our trip from Ft. Lauderdale, FL to Tucson, AZ. I have had both windshields replaced in the last 2 years on my 2005 Adventurer 37b and haven't had a reoccurring leak yet. The drivers side was 2 years ago and the passenger side a year and a half ago. The drivers side has gone from Long Beach, Ca. to Saint Cloud, MN through rain and snow without leak. The passenger side was replaced after we got home to MN. and hasn't gone anywhere since replacement but shows no sign of leaks from local rain showers. I guess time will tell as to how long they will go without leaks. I don't believe Winnebago will even acknowledge their windshields leak yet alone that they have an ongoing problem.
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Old 03-23-2016, 08:37 AM   #26
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Seems some folks have success with their fix and some have hell. And I can't see anything that stands out to be the difference.

1. Make sure seam at cap is solid

2. Check and repair if needed clearance light

3. Remove rubber at windshield, inspect for rust, clean up if necessary and fill channel completely with urethane

4. Repair any lost seal at roof and rain gutter

5. Clasp hands behind head exerting enough pressure to pull head between knees and----

CJ7ole---thanks for pics. I would also like to see the tape job on windshield rubber. As you know, a pic is worth a 1000
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Old 03-23-2016, 08:47 AM   #27
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>3. Remove rubber at windshield, inspect for rust, clean up if necessary and fill >channel completely with urethane


When you fill the channel do you replace the rubber over the windshield or leave it off?
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Old 03-23-2016, 08:59 AM   #28
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Replace---that's why I asked CJ7ole for pics of the tape job on the windshield.
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Old 03-24-2016, 10:11 PM   #29
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I'm sure a few people here will recognize me as having two threads on this subject and not being bashful about chiming in with my own personal experience on my 2005 and my father-in-laws 2006. It's disgusting that Winnebago has had this rusted-windshield-leaking issue over about an 11-year model run and deny any knowledge of it. I've even been hung up on by Winnebago customer service and told that my 'file' has been marked 'do not talk to customer regarding this issue, put on hold and don't answer the phone'. The premise is eventually I'll hang up and go away, which is in fact the sad reality.

Yes, I spent the $3,800 to professionally have all the metal work done, new glass on both sides and new molding. Two and a half years later, I'm right back where I started. Our current winter in California brought El Niño with a whole lot of rain, and the reoccurring water leaks. Took the easy way out for now and sealed the top of the windshield glass, reveal molding and front cap with 4" black electrical tape, found on eBay and Amazon. Checked numerous times since our early December rains and never saw another drop on the dash. (I lined the top of the dash with plastic to help me see if any further leaking.)

Winnebago, with this thread and all others that have come before it, just keeps getting a free pass from all of us Winnebago / Itasca owners. It's saved them a lot of money from their warranty and customer good-will funds; though maybe not so much from the word-of-mouth / new customer sales funds.

I chuckle every time I get the Winnebago newsletter, promoting their new models and products, hoping I'll buy a new one. Not in this or my next lifetime, or the next one after that, thank you. -RT
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Old 03-25-2016, 06:42 PM   #30
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Replace---that's why I asked CJ7ole for pics of the tape job on the windshield.
It's not pretty. I got a 2" x 10' roll of white EternaBond and slit at 3/4 and 1 1/4. 2" seemed too wide. Slitting it and installing it neatly and straight is almost impossible, as evidenced by my pic. But we had rain last night and not a drop on the dash. I do see on the 3M urethane (ultra fast setting which accounts for the not so neat tooling job) instructions that if you do more than scratch the underlying paint, they recommend a full rust removal and priming with auto body 2k epoxy primer before priming it with the 3M all-in-one urethane primer. I can pretty much guarantee you any glass installer will skip that 2k epoxy primer step setting you up for failure down the line. How much would it cost Winnebago to use a good epoxy primer during construction?

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Old 03-25-2016, 06:53 PM   #31
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And here some pics from my driver side repair two years ago. How long is that going to last?

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Old 03-26-2016, 08:40 AM   #32
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Thanks CJ7ole for the pics. I am just starting with mine so pics like this really help. Thank you so much!!
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Old 03-26-2016, 03:48 PM   #33
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Just a thought. How about using double stick Eternabond and stick the rubber trim above the windshield to the painted surface? I used that stuff to install my solar panels and it REALLY sticks.
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Old 08-28-2016, 12:04 PM   #34
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2004 Winnebago 35ft Adventurer. My windshield trim was loose so I pulled the trim and discovered the u channels had come loose. Cleaned off old double side tape, put on new and used super glue to help hold the u channel to the body. I am not wanting this to come loose in the future so has anyone used screws to help hold the u channel in place? I was thinking of one on each end and one in the middle.
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Old 08-28-2016, 06:28 PM   #35
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Cj7ole.. I did most of the things you did and finally stopped all leaking for almost 3 years by simply running a strip of Gorrilla tape along the top of the rubber strip and letting about 1 inch stick to the roof cap. I then ran a thin line of clear non silicone chaulk along the top of the tape where it meets the roof cap. Since my cap is brown it does not show at all. Gorrilla tape also comes in a clear but I never used it. Good luck. Rkl
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Old 08-29-2016, 05:39 AM   #36
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Windshield trim

Thanks for the ideas. I did not have any leakage, however the previous owner had a leak and it was repaired. I am going to fill the gap between the upper channel an the windshield with ureathane caulk. Then I am going to use 1" eternabond double stick tape to provide a seal between the body and the trim. For the metal side trim I am going to add rubber to the top and back side and leave the bottom so any water leak can drain out. So that should prevent any leaks for a while. It is a poor design to begin with, especially using double stick tape to hold down the u channels. I think this is one of the issues as to why leaks start in the first place. The second is no watertight seal between the trim and body, the third is the area between the u channel and windshield as this lets water lay in there to rust and finally the metal side trim has only rubber seal on the front, it needs have rubber on the top and rear side also. It amazes me that a good company would do such a poor design as it is not rocket science.
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Old 08-29-2016, 06:12 AM   #37
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I have been through all the same problems as other. I suggest that you not use gorrilla tape. it will dry up and just leave the base when the sun dries it out.
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Old 08-31-2016, 01:10 PM   #38
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Talked to the dealer about using sheet metal screw to hold the trim u channel in place in addition to the double sided tape. His reply was that they are. So I told him mine are not. He said it was ok to use screws to hold the trim u channel in place. Now for better weather to complete the repair.
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Old 09-03-2016, 12:18 PM   #39
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Completed all repairs to the windshield trim. Used the eternabond 1" double stick on the upper trim to roof joint. Really good sticky tape so this joint should never leak. When I took off the metal trim I noticed the lower rubber trim had been screwed at the end to the vertical post. So as the upper had shrunk and pulled out of the metal trim on one side I did the same to the new upper rubber trim by drilling a hole in the vertical post and using #8 self tapping screws with a washer. This year Winnebago the lower trim u channel is in 5 pieces across the bottom. So I ordered the top u channel which is in 1 piece and will replace the lower with it when it comes in. All in all a very poor design on the windshield trim assembly. I feel now after reworking mine that this is the root cause of the leakage which leads to rust. I want to thank everyone for their help and I hope my posts help someone else.
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Old 09-07-2016, 04:37 PM   #40
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I have a small leak on my passenger side and bought some 3M Urethane Adhesive to patch. I keep seeing recommendations to use a good caulking gun. What exactly is a good caulking gun? I assume I need to remove the cover on the bottom of a tube. Any other special instructions when handling this stuff?
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