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04-25-2008, 04:22 AM
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#21
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Va Bch, VA / Crystal River, FL
Posts: 61
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The entire right side hood bracket fell off my rig. I was far away from dealer and had no faith in local support. Found 4 heay duty bolts with the large "gripping" type heads and washers. I carefully drilled through the body and hood brackets, bolted them up on both sides and I've had no problems with any portion of the body, frame or baracket since. 3 years, of course now that I mention it..........we'll see.
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Ol'Joe, Anne and Kona "Jake"
'10 Phaeton 40QTH / '08 Saturn Vue
Va Bch, VA / Crystal River, FL (or someplace else)
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04-25-2008, 04:59 AM
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#22
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Sarver, PA/Crystal River, FL/Shelocta, PA
Posts: 1,196
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Ol'Joe:
The entire right side hood bracket fell off my rig. I was far away from dealer and had no faith in local support. Found 4 heay duty bolts with the large "gripping" type heads and washers. I carefully drilled through the body and hood brackets, bolted them up on both sides and I've had no problems with any portion of the body, frame or baracket since. 3 years, of course now that I mention it..........we'll see. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Did you drill completely through the hood? Are the bolt heads expose on the outside of the hood?? If so, post a photo please.
I have a 38R, a 2005 Suncruiser. Haven't had hood problems.
-Tom
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Sarver, PA/Crystal River, FL/Shelocta, PA · FMCA 335149 · W3TLN 2005 Suncruiser 38R · W24, no chassis mods needed · 2013 Honda Accord EX-L · 2008 Honda Odyssey EX-L
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04-25-2008, 09:23 AM
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#23
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: SE Minnesota
Posts: 228
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I remember reading about the hood bracket problem some time back. Often times my problem is if I dont check mine at time of reading I foget about it. That said, I'm going out and check mine this very minute. Sure wish there was a drug for restoring memory.
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06 TS-42-DS04
1040 watts of solar
2014 Jeep Rubicon/2003 Honda CRV
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04-25-2008, 03:03 PM
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#24
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Sun City West, Arizona
Posts: 93
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Beabop:
Right now our rear panel is being held on with gorilla glue, we hope it holds until we get to the factory in June. Maybe they will do a good will for us. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I did the same thing but used Liquid Nails on the rear panel! It's been holding for two years now. I can't wait for the generator door to fall off. I think the employee who installed the day/night shade cord guides was transferred to the epoxy glue quality control department.
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2004 Itasca Meridian 34H
2010 Chevrolet Equinox
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04-25-2008, 04:17 PM
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#25
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Waynesboro,PA USA
Posts: 307
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Right on CAT, Winnie glued our front panel on under warranty in 05 and so far it has held.
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Downsized Winnebago C, 24 V /08 Saturn Vue/2014 Town and Country Van/03 Goldwing (Big Red)Recently triked Roadsmith kit
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04-29-2008, 04:17 AM
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#26
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Va Bch, VA / Crystal River, FL
Posts: 61
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Hi Tom,
Sorry for the delay in replying, my internet access is limited at sea. I'll get you some photos this weekend when I get back to the rig. Now all I got to do is figure out how to load them here. well first things first.
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Ol'Joe, Anne and Kona "Jake"
'10 Phaeton 40QTH / '08 Saturn Vue
Va Bch, VA / Crystal River, FL (or someplace else)
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04-29-2008, 08:11 AM
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#27
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Sarver, PA/Crystal River, FL/Shelocta, PA
Posts: 1,196
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Ol'Joe:
Hi Tom,
Sorry for the delay in replying, my internet access is limited at sea. I'll get you some photos this weekend when I get back to the rig. Now all I got to do is figure out how to load them here. well first things first. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Email them to me and I'll post them here.
-Tom
__________________
Sarver, PA/Crystal River, FL/Shelocta, PA · FMCA 335149 · W3TLN 2005 Suncruiser 38R · W24, no chassis mods needed · 2013 Honda Accord EX-L · 2008 Honda Odyssey EX-L
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05-02-2008, 03:08 PM
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#28
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Sarver, PA/Crystal River, FL/Shelocta, PA
Posts: 1,196
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Below are Ol'Joe's photos of his '05 Adventurer 38R repair.
-Tom
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Sarver, PA/Crystal River, FL/Shelocta, PA · FMCA 335149 · W3TLN 2005 Suncruiser 38R · W24, no chassis mods needed · 2013 Honda Accord EX-L · 2008 Honda Odyssey EX-L
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05-03-2008, 06:08 AM
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#29
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Camarillo, CA
Posts: 146
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I had the same problems. The factory repaired right front hood bracket, by the time I returned to CA the left bracket came loose. The dealer reattached with drilled holes for the epoxy to grab. Both are still okay after 20k miles.
The rear panel was about to fall off so I just completed the repair myself. Both brackets were detached and the inner frame was about to let go.
My major concern was orienting the panel in the exact same spot to the frame so I left all in place. I bought aluminum angle from Home Depot, cut into four inch lenghts and drilled many holes for the epoxy to grab. I added six angles to the top side of the horizontal frame and three to the bottom side. Also, three on each vertical end piece. I removed the paint from the metal frame and cleaned the attach points with acetone. I used Loctite "professional" two part epoxy from Home Depot. I also clamped the epoxied chanels during the curing process.
It appears to be a solid bond but I'll keep my fingers crossed for the next 20k miles.
Have not been able to post pictures but will e-mail if someone wishes.
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Vectra 40 AD (2004) and towing
PT Cruiser, GMC ZR5 4x4 Quad Cab
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05-04-2008, 03:30 PM
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#30
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 354
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Hi Cliff: Why you and others are at it, check out the rear cap mounts at the lower level contact points near the hitch. My mounts broke loose is four (4) contact points.
I had to expoy each contact point. I also drilled and used a small Stainless screw through the body and mount in two places because, as luck would have it, we were leaving when I noticed the loose cap and did not have time to let it cure in place.
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05-05-2008, 06:23 AM
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#31
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Camarillo, CA
Posts: 146
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Thanks Gary. I'll check it out. I still have some epoxy left. Thataway to go Winnebago!
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Vectra 40 AD (2004) and towing
PT Cruiser, GMC ZR5 4x4 Quad Cab
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05-05-2008, 09:52 AM
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#32
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 49
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If you glass them on with fiberglaas and resin they will not come loose again
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06-05-2008, 11:06 AM
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#33
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Mo/Texas
Posts: 318
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And yet another bracket came loose today as I lowered the hood. When I took it to the dealer several weeks ago for the hood release repair, I asked that they repair the other as it would probably break. This time it was the bracket hooked to the long adjustable hinge on the drivers side. Talked with Winnebago Customer relations and again they will authorize a goodwill repair and also authorize the remaining brackets to be R&R. The dealer's quality/customer service leaves much to be desired but Winnie sure has stepped up to the plate.
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04 Newmar DSDP 4015-Cummins ISL 370hp-Spartan MM Chassis-2013 Chev Equinox AWD-Ready Brute Elite Towing System-FMCA 402879-SKP 120487 [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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06-05-2008, 04:19 PM
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#34
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 128
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Strange that this thread should reappear now.
Both my generator hatch cover and the engine hatch cover are sitting in my garage waiting to be re-repaired. Generator hatch has already been to the Winnie doctors office but his repair didn't hold (new glue). Engine hatch totally separated on last road trip. Bent the grill fastening points but I will attempt to straighten them. Had to use duct tape on it in order to get it home. Got more than one chuckle on this novel use of the universal tape.
After reading this entire thread I have decided to re-glue using LOCTITE Professional Epoxy, drilling holes in the framework for a hopefully better adhesion process and securing with 1/4" carriage bolts at the four corners of each hatch. If it comes apart again I'll go back to the duct tape with an appropriate sign indicating the marvels of Winnebago engineering. Needless to say, I'm pretty fed up with this whole situation especially since it didn't really manifest itself until the warranty had expired.
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06 Itasca Meridian 36G, 350 Cat , Flnr XC-S Chassis
07 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited
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06-06-2008, 05:05 AM
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#35
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 233
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My hood bracket (stopper) fell off. I called winnie and they said scrape off the old epoxy glue and grind the paint of the bracket and re epoxy. They also suggested to drill more holes in the bracket so the epoxy could sqeeze through and have a better hold. Since the area was covered with the hood, I chose to drill holes in the fiberglass and hold the bracket with Stainless steel bolts, nylon washers and a lock nuts.
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Peter Griffin
2011 JAYCO 24 Z TOY HAULER -
2011 F250 Crew gas
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09-02-2008, 02:42 PM
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#36
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Florida
Posts: 256
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Using bolts as apart of the front hood fix has been done by a number of the forum members. So far I have not heard any negative feed back regarding the bolts applying too much pressure to the thin fiberglass front body and causing cracks.
It appears to me that the pressure caused by the downward movement/weight of the hood plus the occasional added arm/body weight applied to the hood when reaching across may apply enough weight to physically damage the fiberglass support. If the bolt fix was attaching a stationary member I would not be as concerned. Maybe my concern is overstated; what do you think?
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SteveG
'10 Phaeton 36 QSH-
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09-02-2008, 08:02 PM
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#37
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Santa Clarita, CA.
Posts: 1,222
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I'm wondering if those of us that DON'T have this problem (yet) might benefit from a pre-strike additional glue bead along the bracket and fiberglass anywhere it makes sense?
Or will I just have more to grind off?
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Jeff - WA6EQU
'06 Itasca Meridian 34H, CAT C7/350
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09-03-2008, 08:07 PM
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#38
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 354
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I had the front hood fail so I resecured it with stainless bolts, the rear failed and I secured it with bolts.
I also used epoxy to reinforce other factory glue brackets, it was messy to work with. I finally answered the call of Billy Mayes and ordered Mighty Putty. This putty is easy to work with; Yes, you can sand it, drill it and it dries as hard as a rock.
I also mended a broken aluminum patio furniture arm with the stuff.
Here are a few RV pics!
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09-03-2008, 08:52 PM
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#39
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Santa Clarita, CA.
Posts: 1,222
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Thanks Gary, this eases my stress of exposed hardware, and it appears I have all of this in my SS box and looks pretty straight forward.
As for Billy, I'm a big fan of Scotch VHB (it's holding 3 solar panels), so someone at work wants to challenge my VHB against Billy. I told him was was gonna lose anyway so I'd let him set the test criteria. Haven't heard back..
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Jeff - WA6EQU
'06 Itasca Meridian 34H, CAT C7/350
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09-04-2008, 05:34 PM
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#40
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 359
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Petro:
FLYTYER;
I had the same problem. I used JB Weld and made a brace to hold the bracket tight until it set and dried. It has held so far. I am careful with it though.
Don </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I use Loctite Waterproof Epoxy Putty. Similar if not same as Billy's.
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Pubtym, 20th SOS "Green Hornet" , Viet Nam 68-69,
2015 Thor A.C.E 29.3
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