Another gluing project-need some help

wagonmaster2 · 05-26-2012, 12:32 PM

After gluing both headlight brackets and the rear engine hood back on, now I'm trying to do the driver's side front hood hinge on my 2004 36' Meridian. I have the hinge off the cross bar and the Z like bracket that glues to the back of the front cap off in order to make less weight while the glue dries but can't seem to find any way to brace and hold that bracket to the front cap after applying the J-B weld. I have a good "C" clamp and a couple of those squeeze type clamps but there doesn't seem to be any way to get them to hold onto the bracket.

Any one have some good suggestions on how to hold the bracket up against the inside of the front cap while the glue dries? I'm using the fast drying J-B which will begin to set up in 6-9 minutes, which I can hold that long, but it could still slip down for the next 30 minutes to an hour. I am hoping that by taking everything apart it will make less weight on the bracket while it dries. Surely there must be some way to keep pressure on it, short of drilling holes through the front cap with bolts into the bracket (which I couldn't do).

Wagonmaster2

FIRE UP · 05-26-2012, 12:47 PM

Hey Wagonmaster2,
Is it possible for you to cut a small piece of wood that would be the correct length to "wedge" in between that piece you're gluing and something on the frame, front suspension, cross member, anything that will handle the other end of the stick. Obviously you don't want too much wedge pressure so as to not damage the fiberglass front cap.

Sometimes duct tape can be used to hold things in place while glue sets up. The back side of your cap will have to be real clean for the duct tape to hold. Even if your piece of wood or, pvc or copper pipe or what ever is long, it still may do the job for you. Just a thought here.
Scott

87Rockwood · 05-26-2012, 12:47 PM

How about a pair of strong rare earth magnets or electro-magnets?

wagonmaster2 · 05-26-2012, 01:02 PM

I have a roll of Gorilla Duct tape, that might be the best way to get back behind there to attach some support. I'll look for a frame brace to wedge a board in behind but I figured trying to get something cut just the exact perfect length would be a little beyond my capabilities. I don't have any kind of table saw, just a hand cross-cut saw as I'm not much of a carpenter.

The driver's side seems to be coming unglued first on everything. Someone working on that side during assembly must not have been much of a gluer, probably was a newbe at the job. The passenger's side isn't perfect and was still holding on the headlights but was showing signs of coming loose so I pried it off and reglued before it fell off light the driver's side did.

Wagonmaster2

FIRE UP · 05-26-2012, 11:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wagonmaster2

I have a roll of Gorilla Duct tape, that might be the best way to get back behind there to attach some support. I'll look for a frame brace to wedge a board in behind but I figured trying to get something cut just the exact perfect length would be a little beyond my capabilities. I don't have any kind of table saw, just a hand cross-cut saw as I'm not much of a carpenter.

The driver's side seems to be coming unglued first on everything. Someone working on that side during assembly must not have been much of a gluer, probably was a newbe at the job. The passenger's side isn't perfect and was still holding on the headlights but was showing signs of coming loose so I pried it off and reglued before it fell off light the driver's side did.

Wagonmaster2

Gang,
Based on Wagonmasters and other posts on the seperation of parts/glue joints, I now check all of mine as often as possible. So far, knock on wood, all of ours are holding tight. I've only had one item that was starting to separate. And that one was the fender panel, just behind the left front tire. It was held on with some sort of double sided tape. I wedged it apart, cleaned it with alcohol, and inserted some gorilla glue and clamped it as best I could. I left it like that for a day.

The next day, I removed the clamps and man, that things on there for a lifetime now.
Scott

wagonmaster2 · 05-28-2012, 01:53 PM

Reglueing update: J-B Kwik really does work quick, allmost too much so. Very little need to have any additional holding after about 8-10 minutes. Package says 4 minutes, longer if temps under 40 degrees but here in Oklahoma at 90 degrees it must have been about 2 minutes. I couldn't even budge it a fraction I thought it needed.

No wonder these RV manufacturers don't warranty their glued together products longer than 12 month, they know most of it probably won't hold together any longer than that. They'd most likely all go broke if they warrantyed any where around 36-60 months like the automotive industry does.

Wagonmaster2

SCVJeff · 05-29-2012, 03:01 AM

Is anyone aware of a mixing Epoxy in a standard calking arrangement that would work? I fixed a problem I had in Quartzsite and that stuff is great, but it was a small Epoxy tube(s) and the mixer tube. It would take a case to do what I want to do.

doorguy · 05-29-2012, 07:28 AM

I had the exact same problem, I used JB Weld and simultaneously used small rivets to hold the bracket against the cap lip. They are hidden when the drop down hatch is in the up position. Worked like a champ.