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Old 09-22-2015, 03:09 PM   #121
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Originally Posted by bmijudie View Post
Thank you, I PM'ed Ernie. I'll let you know what he says.
Yes, please do. I think that there are a lot of people interested in the outcome of your problem. The more that we know about products, the better choices everyone can make. Hopefully Ernie has some ideas and you can have a positive outcome.

Our flooring has been down four months now and so far it's held up as it should, no problems. Hopefully I can say the same thing five, ten years down the road! We've probably put about 1,500 miles on the new flooring and been in temperatures up to 100 F and as low as 50 F.
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Old 09-23-2015, 05:20 AM   #122
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I did not chime in on this thread due to the fact that this Allure material has given so many people headaches. Thus- with all the research I have done I will never install this material.
This is a total do it your self material- that is why the big box stores sell it.
Since I have been in the flooring business professionally for close to 43 years, that is why I made that statement.
I must be doing something right as I'm booked well into 2016 for first quality material installation.
Allure is not first quality material. Your results and opinion will vary.
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Old 09-23-2015, 05:39 AM   #123
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I am just a meticulous self installer but I would have to agree with Ernie.

I installed an Allure type product in our Class C. I'm very happy with it for our older Class C. IMHO I would want something a little nicer in a more expensive home or RV.
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Old 11-27-2015, 10:21 AM   #124
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Someone PM'ed me and asked how the floor is doing.

It is a piece of junk. It has been installed and reinstalled three times. I think our problem is possible temp changes at night. It always separates the first night we take the rig out, the next morning, after a chilly night, the floor is ruined.

I am currently emailing with Ernie to try to save this disaster. What a mistake this was.
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Old 11-28-2015, 07:24 PM   #125
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I am the OP on this very long thread. Mine has been down 4+ years now and I am not sorry I took the time to do the install (or the write-up), but I am sorry about the choice of material. I have since put down several types of hard flooring including adhesive Allure, Cork, Pergo and Bamboo in my home and my son's home. Doing it again, Allure Ultra would be my last choice. As stated previously, I have several major end-plank separations, some as large as 1/4". Long edge separations are only where I didn't get them perfectly tight in the first place. While disappointing in that regard, I recently scrubbed it on my hands and knees using Spick and Span after a through sweeping. Previously I took the easy way and just used a wet Swiffer pad. I choose the lighter color and I have several spots that have small stains that will not come out. And I have some scratching, even though I always use six protective pieces under my slides. Still better than the carpet it replaced though. Not sure what I would use if I were to do it over though, which I don't plan on doing.
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Old 12-14-2015, 08:10 PM   #126
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Update

Just a quick update on the flooring. Today we took the moho to the shop and that flooring is being taken out and put in the dumpster! After three tries, the shop agrees with Ernie and will never install this product again. We are having Bruce Armstrong engineered wood flooring installed, again at the shops expense. Thank goodness we have a good shop that stands by their work even though it's not the workmanship, it is the product. I think it is now costing them money to get this thing done.
Hopefully it never has to go back!

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Old 01-20-2018, 12:13 PM   #127
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Allure Ultra Vinyl Plank Flooring

We’ve been researching a lot about installing Vinyl Plank Flooring (VPF). You have the best written article so far. However, we have a question about installing VPF under the bed frame. Our bed frame is like yours. We wanted to know if you ran the VPF to the outside edge of the frame or continued under bed frame and, if so, how did you reattach bed frame in order to keep floor “Floating”. Thank you for your help.
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Old 01-22-2018, 11:05 AM   #128
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Vinyl floor

We didn’t put the vinyl floor in the bedroom, we just put new carpet down and just tucked it under the bed frame.
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Old 04-02-2018, 12:06 PM   #129
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Day eight: Finally got the entire floor covered save the small places next to the bed. A lot of trimming in front of the galley required plunge cuts on the TS for the registers and oblique cuts that I knew would be trouble to score and snap. I found that a sharp chisel works well for cutting small notches difficult to do with a saw. I am really trying to keep the floor “floating” so I am trimming the vinyl just outside the bolt pattern and elevating the seat pedestal with 3 washers so it floats above the vinyl. Also laid down aluminum foil where I couldn’t get the glue off the metal floor. The farther I get into the project, the slower I am going, I am in no hurry, the subdivision rules police haven’t given me any warning letters yet about MH storage. End day eight, 7 hours.
WOW !!!! Excellent job !
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Old 04-09-2018, 02:33 PM   #130
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Beautiful and inspiring!
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Old 06-04-2018, 01:45 PM   #131
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Square Feet

Hello, you happen to have the same floor plan as we do, how many square feet of flooring was needed? Thanks
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Old 06-05-2018, 09:36 AM   #132
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Not too bad did this a long time ago

Kept carpet in bedroom and Cab as it’s quieter imho. Oh yea got rid of dinnette and mad a breakfast bar with dinette table..just cut the tabl length ways..and can be re assembled if we needed a table again. Also a man door for night time. Allured the slide out as well..never had an issue in the 20k miles with the flooring..and were talking a gasser with stiff shocks.

.good old Yankee ingenuity. That’s why I love rv’ng And the folks on this forum..

For me I would have finished the man door with another trim...

Pretty easy to rip up carpet and get is down to wood...just need some time and patience


To bad Rv is gone..on to tt these days.
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Old 06-05-2018, 06:06 PM   #133
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Let me just say that you will save yourself a LOT of work if you stop where the plywood floor meets the metal floor in the driver cockpit area ........ but pulling up the carpet and padding which is glued at the perimeter to the floor and wood strips with something that should be outlawed. After 9 years, it is still VERY sticky and VERY tenacious.
I replaced the flooring in my Itasca Sunrise 35U with peel and stick luxury vinyl and carpet tile. Although I haven't tackled the cockpit yet, I discovered that the heat generated by my oscillating multi-tool with either a scraper blade or fine saw blade worked very well in removing the stair well carpet, the glue melts so you can peel up the carpet as you "shave" it off with the multitool. It reminds me of the videos I've seen of sheep shearing. You still need to remove any remaining residue.

It may be a bit tedious for the larger cockpit area but I'll give it a try. It would go more quickly with two people. I just have to get rid of that old shag.
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Old 09-15-2018, 01:22 PM   #134
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Smile alure ultra, install in class A motorhome by jmbi

I just wanted to thank you for the fantastic write-up.

I am getting ready to install Allure Ultra in clear cherry in my 31 ft Airstream Landyacht.

I pulled the old carpet up and found part of the floor to be metal and offset high. Airstream set the basements in the subfloor by cutting a hole and dropping them in in from the top. so now I have a metal flange 1/8 higher than the OSB sub floor and round head screws on top of the flange screwing it into the subfloor. No way can the new floor be installed on that.

So I am installing a new sub floor (ACX 1/2" ply) over the top of the whole thing. I'm going to glue (PL400) and screw the new sub floor down (pilot holes with countersink) to allow the screws to be below the surface.

I don't have slides and the drivers area is raised, so I am leaving that with carpet.

I have not yes decided to use a muffler under the new floor. Traffic master instruction says do not use a foam underlayment. But the floks at home depot recomends using the muffler.

I am assuming the snap and clip joints cannot take much flex and stay together, so that is why no foam underlayment is allowed. However the muffler underlayment is very thin and doesnt seem to compress much. So this is a decision yet to be made. I will call Traffic master monday.

I'll upload lics as I go along. The motorhome is in the barn (temp is about 70-75 during the day) my tools (band saw, table saw, compound miter saw, etc) is in my shop 150 ft away, so I may be moving tools or walking back and forth.

thanks again, and wish me luck. I also move slower than I used to but i'm in no hurry, as long as I don't hurt myself or break something big I'll be happy.

JB
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Old 09-16-2018, 06:38 AM   #135
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I thought I had posted this update, but apparently not: Last year I pulled up 70% of the floor, where the worst separations were and relaid it using Gorilla CA glue on all of the end and longitudinal joints. No separation problems since.
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Old 09-16-2018, 11:24 AM   #136
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Update on my install. Installed June 2015. I've got two end joints that want to separate a small amount. So far I have just kicked the offending plank with my foot and and scuffed them back into place. I did put in some screws along one long wall to keep the whole floor from shifting over against the opposite wall.

So far the flooring has performed flawlessly, no buckling, no scratches or dents, no scuff marks or stains. That's even with three cats tracking cat litter crystals all over it. While on the road we do a light sweep of it every couple of days and a light mop of it maybe each week. The surface still holds it's original sheen. The floor looks the same as when I first installed it.

The floor has been in place now for over 12,000 miles and has been jarred by terribly maintained roads in certain states. Some of our travels were in temps over 100*F while we have had temps as low as -10*F while it was in storage. So expansion/contraction due to temps does not seem to cause a problem. In general we do not remove our shoes while inside and even sliding the dinette chairs back and forth and taking the slideouts in and out has not scuffed the flooring. I'm pretty impressed with the flooring's performance.

I may put in a couple more hidden screws to keep the two offending end joints from separating, but that's it. So that's my experience with the flooring, others may not have as good of performance as I have had due to the large number of variables encountered with RV flooring.
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