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Old 05-28-2012, 07:54 PM   #1
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Air conditioner

We have a 2008 Winnebago tour with a basement A/C and during very hot weather (105 and higher), our coach will not get cooler than 86-96 degrees. We have been in other coaches that do not have this problem and are looking for solutions.
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Old 05-28-2012, 08:19 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GARYWFI View Post
We have a 2008 Winnebago tour with a basement A/C and during very hot weather (105 and higher), our coach will not get cooler than 86-96 degrees. We have been in other coaches that do not have this problem and are looking for solutions.
GARYWFI: Welcome to the forum and the Winnebago forum. Glad you joined and posted your question, as you will soon see there is lots of info here about the basement A/C units. Try using the "search this forum" located top right.

Short answer is to ADD a roof mounted A/C unit in place of the kitchen vent fan. Check out this thread:
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/2007...ir-122948.html Good luck with yours! Ed
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Old 05-28-2012, 09:09 PM   #3
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Welcome to the forum. First thing to do is to clean the filters, check to see if the evaporator coil is clean and then check for air/bypass leaks on either the inlet or the outlet side.

Now, after running with fans on high for at least 15 minutes, check the difference between the supply temperature and the outlet temperatures, as close to the unit as possible. There should be a temperature of 18 to 20 degF here. More or less, there may be a problem with the unit.

Ken
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Old 05-28-2012, 09:18 PM   #4
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You must also remember that with most any RV you will only get a 20 to 25 degree difference between interior and exterior temperature. One thing that will help, after you check the filters and such, is to try and shade the rear of the coach. Your ducting from the central unit is running up the rear cap, and there's very little insulation... so you're heating the cool air immediately out of the unit. Also make note that your power management unit isnt cutting power to the 2nd compressor... just a couple thoughts....good luck to you..
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Old 05-28-2012, 09:30 PM   #5
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The air cons only cool the air 20 lower than inlet temp.
There have also been reports of severe air leaks in the ducting that sealing has cured. Others have resorted to having a roof air added.
Probably should have it checked out to see if it's functioning correctly and go from there.
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Old 05-28-2012, 09:46 PM   #6
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As stated, 20 degree temp drop is about all you can expect - That's what I get with my Meridian with basement air. Keeping the water heater off may help a few degrees. If your EMS has a readout for amps it should read about 24 amps with the A/C only running both stages. You will have to be on 30 amp shore power or generator for it to display.
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Old 05-29-2012, 06:40 AM   #7
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We live and RV in the South West so we use the air frequently. A helpful hint is to start early. When you first get up turn on your air and set the thermostat at least 5-10 degrees less than ambient temperature. This starts both compressors and they will continue to run. If you don't set the temperature 5-10 less only one compressor will run until the temp difference is at least 5 degrees behind what you want it to be. Then it is too late and the unit will struggle to keep up.
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Old 05-29-2012, 11:24 AM   #8
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Our basement airs duct work was split at the seam inside the rear cap. It is easy to check this, just feel around in back, underneath and in the engine compartment. If there is cold air blowing out with a little work you can remove a panel or two and repair it.

While we were at it we pulled the unit out, had the freon topped up, replaced the thermostat, replaced the seals both in the duct out and cold air return and oiled both fan motors. It is not perfect but a lot better now.
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Old 05-29-2012, 01:07 PM   #9
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I added a Coleman 1500PS roof air unit. I had a 30amp power transfer relay installed. With it I can power it off the coach Gennie, 50amp main buss or I can plug into the 20amp plug on the parks power pedistal and remove it from the coach power system completely.

The easiest and quickest thing you can do without any mods is to purchase a roll around room air like these. Newegg.com - Haier AP095R 9,000 Cooling Capacity (BTU) Portable Air Conditioner

It was 98 inside the coach the other day when I started working inside with all three units running. In about an hour and a half it was down to the mid 80's. Walking from the bedroom where I was replacing the rear TV (old one burnt up last week) it felt down right cool.
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Old 06-01-2012, 09:26 AM   #10
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An rv appliance guy told me a long time ago, with the basement air system, keep your fan on "ON" and not "Auto". This keeps the air moving thru the vents to help the heat build up in the roof between cooling cycles. It is also important to check your voltage "in" the coach with a plug in voltage meter. When the air is on, you don't want that voltage to drop below 110V and 108V is pushing it. At low voltage the compressors will heat up and not be as efficient. I use a Powermaster Voltage Booster and it keeps my voltage within the safe range. During A/C use, if I am on 30 amps, I will put the water htr and refer on gas to lessen the load.
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