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Old 08-25-2007, 06:00 PM   #1
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IM only getting from 14 to 17 degrees diff from supply and return. My ac runs all day and will only cool down to 84 on a day where outside temp is around 90-92. the first comp pulls about10 to 12 amps when turned on and the second comp pulls about 10 to 12 additional amps. The shop where its at put a valve and added alittle freon( dont know if it really needed it) but it hasnt realy helped. my first question is im going to have the shop add copper lines/ valve and install them in the basement comp to the right of ac unit. the purpose is to be able to add freon and check pressure with the unit in place. I think trouble shooting would be easier. what do you guys think? pros and con. my warr is over so im not worried about that. the lines will be mounted not just flapping around. I would app any opinions on valve and any help on trouble shooting ac problem.
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Old 08-25-2007, 06:00 PM   #2
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IM only getting from 14 to 17 degrees diff from supply and return. My ac runs all day and will only cool down to 84 on a day where outside temp is around 90-92. the first comp pulls about10 to 12 amps when turned on and the second comp pulls about 10 to 12 additional amps. The shop where its at put a valve and added alittle freon( dont know if it really needed it) but it hasnt realy helped. my first question is im going to have the shop add copper lines/ valve and install them in the basement comp to the right of ac unit. the purpose is to be able to add freon and check pressure with the unit in place. I think trouble shooting would be easier. what do you guys think? pros and con. my warr is over so im not worried about that. the lines will be mounted not just flapping around. I would app any opinions on valve and any help on trouble shooting ac problem.
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Old 08-25-2007, 06:10 PM   #3
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sorry for double post
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Old 08-25-2007, 06:33 PM   #4
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For comparison, on my 40' unit currently in Albuquerque NM, the ac runs virtually all day in 95-100 degree weather with the thermostat set at 79, and keeps us in the 80-81 degree range or cooler. I always put the big awning and door awning out first thing in the morning to shade the SE side of the coach from the sun most of the day. That definitely will help some.

I have never heard of one of these basement air units needing addition of freon. In fact, RVP and their service manual says no maintenance is required other than changing the filter, emphasizing that they are sealed units and require no freon servicing. You say the shop where it is added the valve? I cannot imagine they are an RVP trained/certified service center. I have had problems letting places work on my unit when they said they were familiar with them, but obviously were not RVP trained. You can find certified service places by going to the RVP website at [www.rvcomfort.com/rvp/rvp.php]. Personally, I think you are chasing up the wrong tree & wasting time and $$ by altering the unit so you can check/add freon. In addition, adding tubing etc outside the unit will only make it more of a problem and cost more labor to remove when it needs cleaning, blower motor replacement, compressor replacement, etc.

There are two reasons I have seen for these units not cooling well. The easiest to diagnose is that only one compressor is running. From your comments on amp draw, that apparently is not your problem. I see apx 17 amp from the first compressor, and a total of apx 24 with both running. The other reason ...and #1 reason for cooling problems ...is a leak and/or separation in the duct work going from the basement unit to the roof behind the rear cap. That is normally easy to diagnose, but may be much harder to fix depending on where the leak is. Some have found the leak by lying on the ground at the passenger rear corner with the ac running, and feeling the cool air escaping. Others have found it by getting on the ladder and feeling the rear cap from top to bottom on that side with the ac running on a hot day ...the cap will feel cooler where the cold air is escaping inside the cap. Duct separation/leaking seemed to be a big problem in 2004 models. Some have resolved the leak(s) with aluminum duct tape. A few have had to have the rear cap removed to get to the leak area.
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Old 08-26-2007, 06:10 AM   #5
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afchap, thanks for reply. I talked to tech at rvp and he said these are sealed units but with them bouncing down the road they can dev leak. I also gave temps reading to them and he said unit wasnt running prop. my shop is not cert rvp tech but there ac guys are home and dash cert. Im not a ac person but the tech said it would help him trouble shoot unit. Im hoping we can set up this rig so we can get the unit out with ease Thanks for your opinion. Also I have read where the start cap have gone bad. Will the unit or comp run with a bad start cap?
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Old 08-26-2007, 06:25 AM   #6
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Along with a thorough check of the ducting behind the rear cap for leaks, make sure the outside coils are clean. Just before a recent trip to the IRV2 National Rally in Branson, MO in mid July heat, I cleaned the outside coil well with diluted Simple Green and fresh water. A lot of crud came out.

On days with outside temp 95 and no shade at all, we kept the inside temp at 76 or so with no problem. That was with the main awning and all window awnings deployed, RV Sundshades on the windshield, and foil sun shades in the roof vents and shower skylight.
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Old 08-26-2007, 08:04 AM   #7
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We have found that when it's in the 90s out keeping the windshield covered is a must for the temp inside to remain low.

Also if we are traveling and it's very hot we use the generator and basement air so that the whole coach stays cool. That makes it much easier to keep it cooled once parked.

Another tip that really works in hot weather is running a small fan on the floor facing forward. That really seems to make a big difference in the temp in the front.
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Old 08-26-2007, 08:22 AM   #8
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Anybody else notice a temp discrepancy on their thermostat? Two weeks ago in Houston, we were in 100 degree, 70% humidity, a real trial for a/c.

The a/c ran continuously of course, and the wall thermostat was saying it only got down to ~89 or so. But we felt better than that. I put another thermometer on the counter near and it was saying ~81-82 degrees.

Made me feel a little better, was thinking the a/c was nowhere near keeping up.
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Old 08-26-2007, 03:15 PM   #9
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duct checked ok. I cleaned the coils and had the shop do the evap coils when he pulled the unit. I checked the thermistat with a dig and it checked ok. I should be able to cool down below 84 degrees when the outside temp is only about 90. i think I will have the shop install the valves so the pressures can be checked and freon can be added if nessary without pulling the unit
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Old 08-26-2007, 04:10 PM   #10
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Will the unit or comp run with a bad start cap? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
There is a start capacitor for each compressor. If #1 is bad and #1 compressor cannot start, you will not have any cooling because #2 will not start until #1 is up and running. The fan motor that pushes air through the system may run. If #2 start cap is bad, #1 will run fine. When my #2 capacitor was bad, I could hear #2 trying to start up and failing. I just killed the breaker for #2 and we existed with cooling from just the #1 compressor until I got it fixed.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Anybody else notice a temp discrepancy on their thermostat? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
McDuff ... I've often believed our thermostat temp is off, but I suspect the real issue is where it is located, and how the outlets are pointed. For instance, we have a thermometer mounted on a cabinet door just behind the driver seat that is always 3-5 degrees higher than the thermostat thermometer. Sometimes it is cooler in the bedroom area than in the lounge area, and sometimes it is warmer.
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