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Old 05-27-2015, 06:48 PM   #1
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1999 Chieftain Floor Propane Furnace

Last month I woke up in Texas and it was cool enough that I wanted some heat. The floor furnace came on and quickly I felt the warm air, but not for long- maybe 10 seconds. Tried it again after the blower stopped and same thing. We couldn't get warm! I think the furnace is a Surburban but I can't see a model number anywhere. What does this sound like. Getting too hot? Does the '99 Chieftain 34U have a return duct? If so where is entrance? Thanks.
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Old 05-28-2015, 12:32 AM   #2
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Too quick a shut down for over heat condition.
After the ignition cycle the spark terminal , acts as a heat probe , if the probe doesn't get hot then the system shuts off the propane , thinking there is no flame.
Helped a friend with a similar problem , the burner had developed rust holes and the flame wasn't directed at the probe. Part was under $25. but kind of a pain to change.
If you could post a picture , of the furnace , maybe someone will recognise it, and give a model number.
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Old 05-28-2015, 10:39 AM   #3
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It could be the Sail Switch.

Trouble Shooting RV Furnace
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Old 05-28-2015, 10:49 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Hilley View Post
It could be the Sail Switch.

Trouble Shooting RV Furnace

Doubtful, if the control board sees no input from the sail switch; indicating air flow and fan up to speed; it will not start the propane flow and ignition cycle.
hawkeye , said he could feel some heat, so we'll have to assume , ignition cycle was started.
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Old 05-29-2015, 06:27 AM   #5
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Finally got more info between rain showers yesterday. The furnace is a Suburban SF 42. There is no return duct. Air returns via an opening under the kitchen cabinet right in front of the furnace plus there is a louvered opening on the side of the furnace in the entrance well. The burner lights properly and stays on maybe10 seconds and goes out. It relights, and goes out. It does this 3 times, I think, and I have to remove power and it will then start all over again. I think this eliminates the sail switch, and any safety thermostats so it looks like I will have to pull the unit and check the flame but probably to replace the circuit board. How much is that thing?
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Old 05-29-2015, 08:46 PM   #6
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Do you have the service manual for your furnace?


Maybe available from Suburban web site.
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Old 05-29-2015, 09:11 PM   #7
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hawkeye38, sounds more like the electrode is not detecting flame. Could just be rust and needs a little cleaning.
"7 Seconds Ignition Cycle and Flame Sense
The module board will energize the gas valve and enable the high voltage spark output
to the electrode for 7 seconds of ignition time. The module board will then check for flame sense to verify successful lighting of the main burner flame. Sparking will then be terminated and the gas valve and blower outputs will remain energized.
If ignition is successful the module board will monitor the flame sense, sail switch and
limit switch circuits, and the thermostat inputs during the heating period.
The flame is sensed through the flame sence electrode. Therefore, it is essential that
the electrode is properly positioned in the burner flame."

Here is a link to a manual.
http://www.bdub.net/manuals/Suburban_Service_Manual.pdf
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Old 05-31-2015, 07:00 AM   #8
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I did not have the manual. Thanks for the link. Strange that Winnebago did not supply a single bit of info on the furnace! I will pull the unit and set it up for testing where I can see the flame.
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Old 05-31-2015, 09:22 PM   #9
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If you have not run the furnace for a long peroid of time you may have air in the supply line. After a 3 month no use I have had to do the three and out several times before the line was purged of air. Then the furnace ran for as long as it was used every once in a while. Might try before going to the trouble of opening up the unit itself.

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Old 06-03-2015, 05:44 AM   #10
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OK, I got the furnace out last evening and will begin digging into it today. It came out pretty easy. Hope the repair goes as easy. In shaking the unit around, I can hear something like rust rattling around in the burner.
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Old 06-03-2015, 05:57 AM   #11
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Electronic

i have same model, it sat up for 4 years and I had same problems you are having. I cleaned electronic with fine sandpaper and everything works now
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Old 06-04-2015, 08:47 AM   #12
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Problem solved! Burner had dirt dauber nests and wasp nests in it. In case you live where there are no dirt daubers, here in Alabama rural areas they are everywhere! They are wasp like bugs that build mud houses starting in early spring and do it all day long, every day until the end of summer. They usually build in a sheltered place at least 3 feet off the ground. The houses are very sturdy and are packed with paralyzed spiders that will feed the young when they hatch. Some daubers look for holes in equipment which they will use for their nests--such as furnace blower entrances and exits. Well, they found mine. There were about 3 small nests in the blower housing and 1 or 2 inside the burner housing plus a couple of small paper wasp nests. There was even mud in the burner venturi!
Taking it all apart was pretty easy and cleaning went well. No rust was there and nothing need replacing. Reassembled it all and installed it back in MH. Lit off right away just as it was supposed to. Went through relighting several times and it worked every time and ran until MH got too hot! The vent cap holes are now covered!
BTW, I try to never kill mud daubers as they keep spiders in check. I hate spiders.
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Old 06-04-2015, 09:01 AM   #13
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Great to hear that you got your problem fixed, and that it only took time and not a pile of $$$.

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