Rear trac bar or sway bar??

[Greybeard]

I have to constanly corect the steering in my rig it seems to kind of wander when changing lanes ect.

It has a short wheelbase of 208" for a 33 ft RV.

What do you guys think would be better the new blue ox Tiger Trak or a Ultratrac or a roadmaster swaybar

[Greybeard]

I have to constanly corect the steering in my rig it seems to kind of wander when changing lanes ect.

It has a short wheelbase of 208" for a 33 ft RV.

What do you guys think would be better the new blue ox Tiger Trak or a Ultratrac or a roadmaster swaybar

[becks]

It has often been suggested that you install a steering stabilizer first- then rear track bar if needed. Hopfully others will chime in.

[two2go]

What chassis? I talked to my local Camping World service guy who has installed chassis components on hundreds of rigs. For my Workhorse, his suggestion was first to check alignment, steering, and tire pressures. Tires can be a factor but very hard to determine without changing them, which is not an option unless you need new ones.
His recommended order of add-ons for me was, 1-rear track bar, 2-front track bar, 3-steer stabilizer, 4-rear anti-roll bar, 5-front anti-roll bar. He believes the WH tends to move a bit sideways on the rear springs and thinks the track-bar gives more improvement for the cost, and especially if the coach has more rear overhang in relation to the overall length. I suppose all those add-ons have some advantage, but $3500 for the lot is a bit much when you are not sure of the benefit.
Wouldn't it be nice if you could try before you buy?

[Oemtech]

Before you start tosing money at your problem check the obvious forst.

1) Weigh the rig to get the correct tire pressures and weight distribution. You may have to put your coach on a diet. If you don't use it.... lose it.
2) Have the alignment checked. You may need to have the toe in adjusted and/or 5 degree caster shims added.
3) Which shocks are installed> OEM or Blstein. IF OEM look at Konis

A rear trac bar is the first item I would add. Next would be Steer Safe, SafeTPlus or Blue Ox True Center. Then a front trac bar. Last sway bars.

[Greybeard]

Thanks guys, Its Ford chasis.

I'm installing the Koni's tomorrow, the alignment should be good the only miles on it are from the factory out here to cali and the 300 miles I just put on it. But I guess its a good idea to recheck it.

When people talk about weighing the rig.......u mean at a truck weight station u see on the freeways??

[Sammie]

Greybeard, I'm not sure where your located but try calling Keith at Redlands Truck and explain your problem to him. They are very good to deal with and will steer you in the right direction. He helped me to get my coach to drive down the road straight when I first purchased it.

Steve

Redlands Truck

[tderonne]

My motorhome has a 190" wheelbase and is 31'7" long. Drives fine. The only tank behind the axle is the fuel tank. Is the 32K setup that way? I think where the weight is more important than wheelbase and length. I suspect an alignment (ask for before and after printouts) and some attention to the tire pressures and you should be good.

(And before you go adding parts. Realize that contrary to 99% of what you read about track bars, they don't control side to side motion so much as lower the roll center which ups the roll stiffness - just like a larger anti-roll bar. That's not to say they aren't affective, just good to understand what they really do.)

[Oemtech]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">And before you go adding parts. Realize that contrary to 99% of what you read about track bars, they don't control side to side motion so much as lower the roll center which ups the roll stiffness - just like a larger anti-roll bar. That's not to say they aren't affective, just good to understand what they really do.) </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yawl or side movement, usually caused by an 18 wheeler going by, is a result of the movement of box moving and the rear axle trying to play catchup.

A trac bar can have a big effect on roll center if installed properly. But, you will have to mount it entirely differently than the way it is mounted on a motorhome. The trac bar on a motor home is above and parallel to the axle. In this manor you are tying the axle and frame together and therefore greatly reducing yawl.

Assuming that you are setting up a stock car, turn left and go fast,you will mount one end below the axle on the right side and the other end above the axle on the left side. Now, depending on conditions you will move the left side up or down to change the roll center and tire loading.

[Hikerdogs]

The chassis is aligned before it leaves the Ford plant but adding the house changes the geometry some. Adding all your goodies will change it even more.
Ford recommends loading the coach with everything you normally take with you including water and propane, then have the front end realigned.
Out Adventurer 32V is built on a 208" wheel base F53 chassis. Early on it had a wandering problem. It was cured by replacing the original shocks with Bilsteins (yours came from the factory with them installed) and adding a Roadmaster (formerly IPD) rear sway bar. It now has over 65,000 miles and handles great.

[W.J. Demo]

Greybeard,

I also have the 2008 Itasca 32K and don't have any wandering issues. I have actually been pleasantly suprised with how well it tracks. Suggest you check alignment, tire pressures, and loading. Only thing that gets me is the rocking when transitioning from street to driveways. Heavier anti-roll bars will help that; but, that fix is a bit of money for what is really just an annoyance at this point.

Good luck.

Bill

[tderonne]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by oemtech:

A trac bar can have a big effect on roll center if installed properly. But, you will have to mount it entirely differently than the way it is mounted on a motorhome. The trac bar on a motor home is above and parallel to the axle. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Huh?

A little googling found this good description:
"The roll center is where the Panhard bar crosses the center of the rearend. So the higher the Panhard bar is mounted in the chassis, the higher the roll center and vise versa."

[Oemtech]

For a very good explanation of how a "Panhard Bar" works and how it is mounted GO HERE

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content"> When the panhard bar is level, it transmits a wholly lateral force to the rear tires. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Bottomline... with a motorhome "roll center" is the least of our worries.

[tderonne]

Raising the roll center shortens the effective lever sideways forces have on the motorhome. (The center of gravity and center of aero pressure stay at the same height, they are both above the roll center.) It's that effect that folks notice when the add a track bar.

[Oemtech]

Not sure where you got you photo but I need it a lot bigger for these old tired eyes.

Here is a short piece from the site I referred to above and the text that goes with it.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content"> During cornering the chassis exerts a side force on the rear axle and tires through the panhard bar (see illus. 3). When the panhard bar is level, it transmits a wholly lateral force to the rear tires. However, when the panhard bar is angled downward to the right, it transmits a partially downward force to the rear tires and rear traction is enhanced. Conversely, when the panhard bar is angled upward to the right, it transmits a partially upward force to the rear tires and rear traction is lessened. The effect of an angled panhard bar on rear tire loadings is brief but very important handling </div></BLOCKQUOTE>



During cornering, the chassis exerts a force to the axle through the panhard bar. The load effect on the axle is dependent on the angle of the panhard bar.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">position "a" - axle is loaded (briefly)
position "b" - no affect on axle's load
position "c" - axle is unloaded (briefly)
NOTE: the effects of angle are the same for panhard bars mounted to left or right side of the chassis. each rear tire is affected in proportion to each tire's distance from the panhard's axle mount points. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

[NeilV]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Greybeard:
Thanks guys, Its Ford chasis.

I'm installing the Koni's tomorrow, the alignment should be good the only miles on it are from the factory out here to cali and the 300 miles I just put on it. But I guess its a good idea to recheck it.

When people talk about weighing the rig.......u mean at a truck weight station u see on the freeways?? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Once you load up your motorhome the way you are going to travel with it you need to have it aligned. The factory alignment is for an empty rig with just the driver. It is one of the first things you need to do when you buy a new rig.

You need to get separate weights front and rear or even better get all 4 wheel positions weighed separately so you can find the highest load per axel and then using the tire manufacturers load chart inflate the tires accordingly.

[Greybeard]

Thanks again guys, after installing the Koni's (which greatly improved the ride) Yes, I in fact do need an alignment. I can feel it drift to the right, I hope thats all it needs!!!